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Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by amplifier28, Jan 25, 2009.
i have a stock 94 gt vert. what is the size of the stock mass air meter?
I belive its 65MM
i read somewhere that it was 70 mm. i want to make sure because i want to buy a 75 mm trickflow street intake maifold, 75mm manifold elbow and 75 mm throttle body. i want to match all components as much as possible. if the mass air meter is 70 mm i will stick with stock, but if it is 65 mm then i will buy a larger mass air meter. anybody knows for sure what size the stock air meter is?
They dont all have to match up, you wont gain or lose anything by it. My Throttle body is 75MM and my Mass Air Meter is 97MM. The biggest thing is matching your intake to your throttle body.
thanks! anybody know the size?
whys it matter what the stock size is if your putting an aftermarket one on it anyway?
The OEM meter on 94-95 GT's & Cobra's is 70mm
If you are staying fairly mild with your combo like bolt-ons and the like
You really won't gain much ... if any ... with an aftermarket meter
The same can be said about the tb
Most of the time ... the aftermarket meters are not as accurate as OEM :Word:
It is not all that uncommon to see peeps who switch have drivability issues
It all boils down to this fact
With just bolt-on's .............
You ain't movin enough air to overpower the OEM unit
Many here have done the whole modding thing
It would be wise for you to share your long term plans
That way .............
You can work with the parts that give the best bang for the buck spent
i want to know because if it is 70mm then i stay stock, but if it is 65mm then i might upgrade to a C&L 73mm or a 76mm.
thanks everybody for all the responses!
If you can get your hands on an old Pro-M, that's the way to go.
I'm with wise ol' Mr Grady here. Seems to me that you run out of injector before the meter becomes a hindrance anyhow......
The stock MAF housing has a bore of just over 70mm but it has a thick vertical bar running down the middle that's a big hindrance to airflow. If you just grind that away but leave the tube intact where the hot wire sensor sits, it'll improve airflow quite a bit especially if you also remove the mesh screen.
Already covered this in another thread not too long ago, you can't do that, it will ruin the sample volume.
I've run quite a few H/C/I guys on the stock MAF. Switching to a 90mm Lightning setup was marginally beneficial on the guys spinning above 6k with well flowing heads but overall your money is best put elsewhere.
What I would do is to probe your MAF with a volt meter and make a couple pulls with the meter set to hold peak or have someone watch - if the voltage is getting 4.9 or above I'd consider upgrading as this is where you'll start seeing a worthwhile difference. If it's around 4.7/4.8 I'd leave it alone unless you're dying to drop some coin.
That's why I said you don't disturb the "calibration" tube part.
It has nothing to do with the electronics. The mass air meter is dependent on a certain percentage of the air volume bypassing the sample tube. If you increase the cross sectional area of the meter by removing any material from inside the meter, the total sample volume will change, therefore causing it to give innacurate readings.
Correct. Fluid dynamics 101.
If you have a tuning device like the tweecer you can get away cheaper and better. I switched to a 80mm 98gt maf. It does not have the high end airflow the 90mm LMAF does so you get more use out of the curve/transfer and since they are not as "in demand" you can pick them up cheap. I have less than $90 in my maf setup including the cost of the pigtail. With the tweecerR/T great drivability and I know I am good to go with the voltage.
Granted the stocker has been time and time again known to make good power at the 290-300rwhp mark. I did this just to play around and learn...and have had no issues with a good "middle of the road" maf for little $$$.