Sluggish, Bogging, You Name It. Codes 31, 41, & 91

IsaacI

New Member
Aug 4, 2015
4
0
1
Before I dive in, just want to say this will be my first post beside the introduction and I greatly appreciate everyone for taking the time to read and respond to this thread.

Backstory: I've always been used to seeing the CEL come on and off every now and then for a few seconds ever since I got the car. On my way back from class, I stopped by the gas station to fill her up. Car was running perfectly; however, as soon as I topped her off and started heading home, in the low rpms (I'd say 1000-2000) she would buck and be a little sluggish. It also sounded as if the oxygen sensor had fallen off from my x-pipe (I know because it's happened to me before), with the exhaust making a leaky, throaty sound. I read the codes from the computer and got 31, 41, & 91.

With some research, many concluded these codes don't really affect drivability, but I wanted to fix them anyway after seeing the CEL for too long. I first replaced the O2 sensors, made sure to clear the codes, and started the car. She was at 90%; however, same problem with the acceleration or just cruising around those rpms. Didn't fix the problem but it got rid of codes 41 & 91 and it was part of regular maintenance anyway.

Next, I got a new EGR position sensor (what goes behind the EGR valve) to fix Code 31. I put her in, and at the same time decided to clean the throttle body and MAF sensor. Yes, I used specific cleaning sprays, no, I didn't touch the MAF sensor. I also made sure the Spark Plug Wires weren't loose on the spark plugs or distributer, weren't touching or crossing over each other. Basically just took them off and plugged them back in (made a nice popping sound when plugged). Fired her up, took her for a drive, and she was at 100%! So relieved, I decided to meet up with some friends 30 minutes away. Took her on the highway and she was perfect. On my way home, after driving for about 10 minutes, the car started to make slight hints of the returning problems, and it got progressively worse. As I accelerate, the car will make popping sounds as if I drove the in first gear, drove it up to 3-4k, and pressed the clutch immediately with some force (best example I can give for my car and exhaust). The worst part is I don't see the CEL coming on anymore and drivability is far worse than what it was from the beginning.

So this is where I'm at right now. Mind you, idle is fine at around 700-800 and doesn't drop or raise. Leave it alone and you'd think nothing was wrong. There are no vacuum leaks; only sound coming from the engine is the infamous BBK throttle body whistle, but I'll be fixing that soon. If anyone has shared my experience, please let me know what you've done.

Again, thanks for taking the time to read this. I just wanted to make sure I'm very thorough with my experience thus far.
 
  • Sponsors (?)


Before putting in the EGR position sensor, the issues would only happen on a warm engine. Driving the car for the first time for 3-4 minutes would not show any issues.
Currently, it seems the issues start as soon as the car turns on, whether it be a cold start or if the engine is warm.

I dump the codes every time there is a change in the car
 
Before putting in the EGR position sensor, the issues would only happen on a warm engine. Driving the car for the first time for 3-4 minutes would not show any issues.
Currently, it seems the issues start as soon as the car turns on, whether it be a cold start or if the engine is warm.

I dump the codes every time there is a change in the car

Sorry, that was not the answer I was looking for.

There are 2 code modes, stored memory codes dumped with the key on, engine off, (KOEO) and key on, engine running (KOER)

See https://www.motorcraftservice.com/pubs/content/~WVT1/~MUS~LEN/19/VT118028.HTMfor more information

. Did you dump the codes with the engine running?