Sn95 5.0 Engine Rebuild

so getting back to this GT 40 heads what else would go with that just the cam?? AKA what else would i HAVE to replace to do the GT 40 heads
maybe il buy the stuff myself and pay to have it done next year or when ever i have the parts that are needed ya i know in the long run it will be more money
I haven't done this one, but I hear the guys talking about new valve springs for them. Probably new guides.

I'm assuming you'll get the intake off an explorer for this as well? That's the place to get the heads from in the first place.

Let's ask @stykthyn , he'll know more than me.
 
  • Sponsors (?)


ohh ok so its more then just heads and cam .... i prob wont do it since i like the mustang 5.0 intake look
no, not the case here, it just makes sense. Better airflow, better power, better gas mileage, etc...

These mods are things you can do on the cheap without doing irreversible modifications (like my mini-tub on my '86 GT).
 
Gt40 heads need valve springs swapped. Do keepers and guides while you are in there. Same thing you would do to freshen up stock heads. Put your stock ho intake plate on top and 9 out of 10 guys can't tell the difference.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
The explorer intake looks very similar to the mustang intake, btw. Just flows more air, makes your engine happier.

Plus, when you want to modify the intake with porting. It's not the original, who gives a rats red bunion.

I'm doing something similar with my '83 t-top coupe. I'm keeping everything original to the car and putting it in storage (as I replace it, that is). I will rebuild the stock engine and transmission and the rest, but then it won't see the light of day again for a long, long time.
 
can i do just heads and cam and keep stock intakes for now?
If anything keep the cam and swap your heads/ intake.
Here's an explorer intake
20131028_095915_zps1a2f83a8.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2 users
As much as I love throwing advice at people on the internet, and I am here to help just as much as everyone else here, you should either keep it stock, or put a stop to your rebuild right now. Come up with a plan and realistic goals of what parts are going on your car. A full on hci even a mild one may very well require a chip to be burned for your ecu.
An explorer top end is a relatively mild set up that will work well, is cheap, and will put at least an extra 50 HP to the ground. Add a Cam and you change your valve timing events and the sn computer is not fond of such things. They do make sn friendly cams and this is where research comes in. Slapping parts together is just going to result in a headache at this point.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2 users
i would assume a 1994 mustang 5.0 cam
It's possible, and probable if you told him to put that in.

But a new cam isn't exactly a difficult procedure. Dang, this guy kind of has you right now.

Just have him rebuild it for you, get a WRITTEN warranty from him.

He "should" be able to do the basic rebuild you're asking him to do.

Maybe he's for real, I agree with what @mikestang63 was saying earlier though, seeing those parts laying in the dirt, to include your alternator, has me a little worried. I might be a neat freak or something.

Hopefully it goes well, like you said, he's been in business for years. Usually if a business turns out crap, they won't last. Just remember, a shop can stay in business for a long time being mediocre as well. His fees may reflect more the longevity of the shop as opposed to the quality.

Let us know what happens from here. Do you want to go ahead with the GT 40 head swap prior to getting the engine back?
 
i just want the car to run LOL i new about a li oil leak when i got the car but it turned into almost a gal a week then there was the knocking noise and then i lost liek ALL power like my 4 banger kia had more HP then it .. il just stick with stock 215 PH is enough for me i dont race or anything so the only thing for the car i have been dying to get is the stock CD player and the 2 bottom of the door front speakers being i have the mach 460 you cant use just anything you have to use the RARE 2 ohm speakers some day il find them
 
If that guy is charging you 5k to remove/reinstall and rebuild the motor (completely-which means the required machine work,new parts,etc) that's not a complete raping(still probably overcharging).

That motor wouldn't go back into my car without the following:
Hot tank/magnaflux the block. Also minimum it will need to have cylinders honed(needs to be checked-probably bored). Check the deck for straightness,align hone,new freeze plugs,cam bearings,and chit I am forgetting. A cyl bore is going to require new Pistons and rings. The rods will need to be checked and probably resized with new bolts and bearings. The crank needs at least that much tlc. You'll also need new oil pump,shaft,gaskets,water pump,lifters(and cam),and again misc crap I'm not thinking about.

Then the heads....for as much machine work that you're going to probably need, there is no f'ing way they would go back on my car. I did that same thing years ago and have regretted it every day since. The stock heads are such pieces of chit for performance. They absolutely suck. At least go with some gt40's of the explorers. Check the local junkyard/parts places around town or check the Internet. You can find them on eBay or you can check the parts section in the classifieds on Corral.net. Usually can find them already setup for around 500$ or better yet buy some Trick Flow 170cc heads(1150$ brand new). I'm to tired to continue. And btw I'm 15 miles away in Byron,Il
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2 users
If that guy is charging you 5k to remove/reinstall and rebuild the motor (completely-which means the required machine work,new parts,etc) that's not a complete raping(still probably overcharging).

That motor wouldn't go back into my car without the following:
Hot tank/magnaflux the block. Also minimum it will need to have cylinders honed(needs to be checked-probably bored). Check the deck for straightness,align hone,new freeze plugs,cam bearings,and chit I am forgetting. A cyl bore is going to require new Pistons and rings. The rods will need to be checked and probably resized with new bolts and bearings. The crank needs at least that much tlc. You'll also need new oil pump,shaft,gaskets,water pump,lifters(and cam),and again misc crap I'm not thinking about.

Then the heads....for as much machine work that you're going to probably need, there is no f'ing way they would go back on my car. I did that same thing years ago and have regretted it every day since. The stock heads are such pieces of chit for performance. They absolutely suck. At least go with some gt40's of the explorers. Check the local junkyard/parts places around town or check the Internet. You can find them on eBay or you can check the parts section in the classifieds on Corral.net. Usually can find them already setup for around 500$ or better yet buy some Trick Flow 170cc heads(1150$ brand new). I'm to tired to continue. And btw I'm 15 miles away in Byron,Il
There you go! Todd is close enough to be considered a homeboy!

He's good people, just doesn't know how to pick women!:D
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
If that guy is charging you 5k to remove/reinstall and rebuild the motor (completely-which means the required machine work,new parts,etc) that's not a complete raping(still probably overcharging).

That motor wouldn't go back into my car without the following:
Hot tank/magnaflux the block. Also minimum it will need to have cylinders honed(needs to be checked-probably bored). Check the deck for straightness,align hone,new freeze plugs,cam bearings,and chit I am forgetting. A cyl bore is going to require new Pistons and rings. The rods will need to be checked and probably resized with new bolts and bearings. The crank needs at least that much tlc. You'll also need new oil pump,shaft,gaskets,water pump,lifters(and cam),and again misc crap I'm not thinking about.

Then the heads....for as much machine work that you're going to probably need, there is no f'ing way they would go back on my car. I did that same thing years ago and have regretted it every day since. The stock heads are such pieces of chit for performance. They absolutely suck. At least go with some gt40's of the explorers. Check the local junkyard/parts places around town or check the Internet. You can find them on eBay or you can check the parts section in the classifieds on Corral.net. Usually can find them already setup for around 500$ or better yet buy some Trick Flow 170cc heads(1150$ brand new). I'm to tired to continue. And btw I'm 15 miles away in Byron,Il


the truth is i had 1K to my name im borrowing the rest of the $$ from my pops

i did here Hot tank/magnaflux so that will be done as far as i know he is going to clean the pistons and new rings on them .. i did here him say something about the block does .10 mean anything to anyone ... its me and my pops dealing with this and nether of us knwo about rebuilding none of the engines in the family ever had it done so right now its the blind leading the blind we were put up agenst a wall and are dealing with it the best we can
 
the truth is i had 1K to my name im borrowing the rest of the $$ from my pops

i did here Hot tank/magnaflux so that will be done as far as i know he is going to clean the pistons and new rings on them .. i did here him say something about the block does .10 mean anything to anyone ... its me and my pops dealing with this and nether of us knwo about rebuilding none of the engines in the family ever had it done so right now its the blind leading the blind we were put up agenst a wall and are dealing with it the best we can
Hot tanking is just a method of cleaning the block after it has been disassembled. It gets all of the old crap and looks, essentially like a newly made block. It is very effective, not as many shops perform this properly anymore because of EPA mandates with the chemicals used and disposal of the wastes after cleaning the block. Uncle Sugar wants his dime in other words.

Magnafluxing the block is a method of checking for problems in the integrity of the block (cracks).

The actual number is .010 on the block. This mainly means a hone will be run down each cylinder to restore the cross hatching the rings need to provide a seal and prevent blow by of oil to the combustion chamber or air fuel mixture into the oiling system. If you hear of a larger number like .030 (30 thousandths) or larger, it means at least a slight over bore of the cylinder. .010 would mean new rings, .030 and larger means new pistons usually. When the number is larger than your .010, it means it's being rebored. When you hear of a 347 or a 363 engine based on a 5.0. It means it's been rebored extensively and/or had the connecting rods changed for a longer stroke, which means a new crankshaft as well. All in effort of more cubic inches. Because there's no replacement for displacement (ok, a turbo or sc can be argued here, @Boosted92LX ?).
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user