Some help on getting new shocks.

trombonedemon

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Jun 25, 2009
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Hey guys and (gals?)! I never claimed to be more than just a motor man, recently my car hit a 100 grand on the speedometer and now I need new ball joints (cause the slight ticking when I'm turning, correct me if I am wrong) and the chirping of the back driver side shock. Ok, there is somthing extra that looks like an extra minature shock back there, don't know what it is, maybe a dampener of some sorts, do I have to replace that too, and when I get new shocks, do I have to get new springs, and when I have to get new springs, do I have to get new upper and lower control arms? So many probs, after the 100 grand mark. Any advice would be appreciated, oh yea how about some brands I wouldn't have to start a mortgage on!:nonono::D Stangnet:hail2:Stangnet.
 
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The extra small shocks that are parallel to the ground are quad shocks. They control wheel hop and were only installed on GTs from the factory. While they may be well worn, I doubt you'd notice any difference if you replaced them.

As for the front and rear shocks, there is nothing like factory ford. I bought some take off's for 70$ for all 4 corners that had less than 5 miles on them. The car feels like new again after installing them.
 
Do not go with motor craft shocks. Upgrade buddy. Bilsteins if you can swing the cash. perfect shock for street strip. Blown Bilsteins will ride better then the ford shcoks:D. You can even pick up some KYB's for pretty cheap.
 
How easy and how long is the install, is the shocks something I can do in a day. I can do a search here for the install, I just need a time limit b/c its my only vehicle for now. Anybody have those tockico shocks, are they worth getting? Oh yea what about ball joints? Any ideas on what brand of balljoints?
 
Basically any shock that is out there is good for the money, if you are doing a this on a budget, look at LMR's spring/shock/strut combo with KYB and Steeda springs. Then get some MM CC plates to make your car align right.

And when you install the balljoints, either OEM or Steeda's x2's (which I have a set on eBay right now, PM me for details), you will need an alignment, so, I recommend doing springs/shocks/CC plates and balljoints all at the same time.

Good Luck!
 
IMHO, you can probably do the work you want to do over a weekend, and your car will feel a whole lot better than how it does now. My 99 'stang just went over 100k back in November....

If you are leaving your ride height stock or just a mild lowering you don't need CC plates. If you're going to do an extreme drop (more than 1.5 inches) then you'll need the CC plates to maintain proper wheel alignment, and rear adjustable upper control arms to adjust your pinion angle.

I had the week off between Christmas and New Years, so I took my time and did all the work during that week.
I installed KYB GR2's all around, even the quad shocks, got a good deal at rockauto.com. I also changed out the ball joints with moog's from advance auto. Now I didn't have to change out the springs, but I wanted a lower ride height and better handling, so I opt'd for Eibach Pro-kit, and MM lower control arms. I'm not going to so racing etc.. so I didn't want to spend all the extra $$ for the bilstein's etc...Once I got all of this done brought it to get a wheel alignment and they were able to align it within spec's.

In regards to the Eibach Pro-Kit (1.5 inch drop front/rear); I've read where some guys/gals needed CC plates and some didn't....I guess I'm in the didn't bunch.
Just make sure to get the best you can without getting a mortgage;)
 
Hmm, yea, ok. I just want to keep the stock height for now, or at least until I need new springs out of all honesty my shocks are spueaking a little bit but, its just enough to annoy the hell out of me so there alone is enough to upgrade. I'm doing the ball joints cause I heard its a p.i.t.a. and I don't want to do them in future. Thanks for the advice.:hail2:Stangnet:hail2:
 
Advance's rental tools were all out, so I rented the tool to do the ball joints from the autozone. All the big parts stores should have rentals to do the job. Without the right tool it would be a royal p.i.t.a., but wasn't that bad even for this lady. I had the rental back to them in a couple of hours.
 
if you are looking for a budget friendly shock/strut setup, go to your local autozone and pick up a set of factory replacement Gabriel Guardians. i got two shocks and two struts for $109.71 just a few months ago. bear in mind the longevity of these will be compromised a bit if you are lowering your car but they will still last a good long while, provided you dont autocross. i have these on my 00 GT with H&R SS springs and the ride is awesome. very smooth. i also had very good luck with a very similar setup on my 95 but with using eibach sportlines. never bottoms out and the ride is almost stock like.
 
I agree with the Gabriels I put a whole new set of shocks struts on my car (my old 2001 GT) with Gabriels from AutoZone for right around $100.

Do not replace the ball joint, instead replace the whole a-arm with M-3075-D, this is much easier.
 
I agree with the Gabriels I put a whole new set of shocks struts on my car (my old 2001 GT) with Gabriels from AutoZone for right around $100.

Do not replace the ball joint, instead replace the whole a-arm with M-3075-D, this is much easier.


does the gabriels come with a lifetime warranty? someone said they did, i never asked autozone. i kind of doubt it tho. :shrug:

also, can you get a A-arm kit with the X2's or are they all just factory replacement BJ's?
 
I knew that there were some women on here, anyway, I think I agree w/ Kilgore but, are the ball joints that come with the part you mention re-greasable. I want these to last longer than the stocks, way longer. Ok, what is actually needed to lower the car, like what would I have to buy extral, like control arms, torque box kits(what ever the hell those are), bump steer kits, this is strictly out of curiostiy for future reference! I am really thinking about going w/the autozone Gabriels, you seem to have great things to say about them!Stangnet:hail2:Stangnet:hail2:
 
Why would you want X2 ball joints?

the steeda x2's are suppose to play better with the suspension on a lowered car compared to a stock ball joint. several on here that know alot more about suspension than me can give more details on this. i understand it is not a neccessity. another benefit of these is that they come with spacers. if the spacers are left out, the car will drop another 1/2" in the front :nice:
 
Ok, what is actually needed to lower the car, like what would I have to buy extral, like control arms, torque box kits(what ever the hell those are), bump steer kits, this is strictly out of curiostiy for future reference!


technically, springs is all you need. i would strongly suggest investing in a few more parts tho.

such as -

springs
c/c plates
new isolators
shocks & struts
GET AN ALIGNMENT

caster camber plates ARE helpful when aligning a car after its been lowered. however, sometimes they are not a neccessity. sometimes the suspension geometry can be adjusted properly using the stock c/c plates. my personal opinion is to go ahead and get some, especially if you decide to lower your car more than 1.5". you can spend as little as $130 on a new set or up past $250. there are always used ones as well. i say buy new. i bought the cheapest set (UPR steel 3 bolt 'shark' plates) and they work fine.

isolators. not a have-to thing but if your car has many miles on it, the stockers are probably torn or dry rotted. you have the option of poly or rubber. poly is cheaper i think but the car may sit a tad higher as the poly doesnt cush like the rubber. several on here run springs with no iso's with no complaints. others that do this mention some noise and added vibration.

shocks and struts. buy some. you dont have to but its a good investment, especially if your stock ones have lots of miles. the autozone gabriels are good and decent and not a bad choice IMO.

GET AN ALIGNMENT! ESPECIALLY IF YOU HAVE NEW TIRES. dont want the inside of your tires bald and the outside of them with full tread :notnice: . your local ford dealership should only charge you about $55 for the alignment.

other parts such as balljoints, bump steer kits, offset rack bushings are a good idea but i personally do not have experience with these. there are others here that can be more helpful regarding these parts and everything else mentioned

good luck :flag:
 
the steeda x2's are suppose to play better with the suspension on a lowered car compared to a stock ball joint. several on here that know alot more about suspension than me can give more details on this. i understand it is not a neccessity. another benefit of these is that they come with spacers. if the spacers are left out, the car will drop another 1/2" in the front :nice:

I would stay away from those ball joints. You are adjusting the bump steer without measuring it. Would you adjust your alignment without measuring it?

Its just something to consider.
 
I would stay away from those ball joints. You are adjusting the bump steer without measuring it. Would you adjust your alignment without measuring it?

Its just something to consider.


sure are alot of people that use them and report positive results :shrug:


i have had no personal experience with them so i cant argue with you too much :nice:
 
another point of view would be that the search function and googling for problems with the X2's dont really yield many results.


less dirt on the car makes it faster ;)

I don't mean to say that they will give you trouble. I've never used them or heard of any results. I just say why spend the money on something that is, in essence, a one-size-fits all solution? Like a one-size-fits all shirt, it probably doesn't really fit all that well.

If you want your bump steer to be correct after lowering your car, buy a bump steer kit (adjustable tie rod ends) and adjust it properly with measurements.

Or just save your money.