Spring perch mod.........roller bearings............. and a lot of work.

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by Opentracker, Jul 6, 2004.


  1. Opentracker

    Opentracker Member

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    I put up a photo a while back on a post . I was asked to take some photos before I painted my mods. So I did.

    Photo 1 .... Is of what I do to the stock style perch. A washer gets welded in place to hold the 2" hole saw that makes the cut. The piece of 2" seamless tubing is on the side.
    [​IMG]

    Photo 2 ... Is of all the parts in one spot. The main shaft, whats left of the stock perch sheet metal, the 2" sleeve and R14-2RS bearings.
    [​IMG]

    Photo 3 ... The shaft has to be this clean before the bearings will slide on. I displaced metal with a punch to hold the bearings in place. I don't think cutting into the shaft for E clips, or welding on the shaft is a good idea.
    [​IMG]

    Photo 4 ... Taking the shaft out without beating the snot out of it is the trick here. I put it in the BFvise, cut a groove in the outer shell and peal it open like a banana, then use a old bread knife to take the rubber off. The new replacement perch bushings are made of vulcanized rubber. Strong stuff.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    John
     
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  2. Ronstang

    Ronstang New Member

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    Great work as usual John. I assume that you peen the edge of the large tube over to hold the bearing in place but do you weld the large tube to the perch with the bearings in place?
     
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  3. RajunCajun

    RajunCajun New Member

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    looks great,


    one question if youve tried them out which it sounded from the other post like you have did you notice any more vibration than with rubber, poly bushings?

    Thanks

    Dave
     
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  4. Opentracker

    Opentracker Member

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    Good point! ...You do not weld with the bearings in place, the grease in the bearings is good for up to 300deg, and Yep...I'm a good peener. You could use a big C clip to hold the bearings in on the outside, but I didn't
    No. The cars ride much smoother than before. Bronze or bearing it's a good idea.

    John
     
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  5. Ronstang

    Ronstang New Member

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    I, as I assume we all do around here, really appreciate your willingness to share your designs and info on how to build them ourselves John.......THANKS
     
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  6. Max Power

    Max Power New Member

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    That looks great, but one question comes to mind: Aren't those already commercially available? I thought I had seen them before....
     
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  7. Opentracker

    Opentracker Member

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    Not any more.

    I will be happy to help anyone build this stuff. It's not rocket science but it works and it makes the car drive a lot better. The email works better for me. You can't get a patent on this stuff so why not share?


    John
     
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  8. Max Power

    Max Power New Member

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    Very cool!
     
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  9. RajunCajun

    RajunCajun New Member

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    Im also looking forward to more great info from you and others I really liked the LCA design you had & the UCA, another area ive noticed that some others on the forum have been working is the homemade strut rods.


    again
    Thanks
     
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  10. Opentracker

    Opentracker Member

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    An AFCO strutt, ready to be bolted in. Got to drill holes in the car to do this one.


    The lower arm with full legth brace, screw in ball joint and spherical bearing inside pivot.


    John
     
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  11. Route666

    Route666 Active Member

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    Beautiful work! I assume as the bearings won't be rotating more than 10 degrees or so while in use, that they will last a lifetime, and won't need greasing?
     
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  12. Ronstang

    Ronstang New Member

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    That would be my assumption......they are sealed bearings.
     
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  13. Opentracker

    Opentracker Member

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    The perch rotates 25deg with full suspension travel and around 8-10deg with normal driving. The grease inside is rated to 300deg and the bearings are rated at around 1400lbs each. I don't know how long they last, none have failed yet. Some have been on the road since Jan. and they have been on the track a few times too. Folks love 'em.

    John
     
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  14. streetgrande69

    Founding Member

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    john, what is your source for the tubing. i can't find around here. i have 10 bearings, and 3 sets of used perches, i'm gonna try it out for me and some buddies. wish me luck.
     
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  15. 66P51GT

    66P51GT New Member

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    Cobra Automotive had them last time I checked. They're expensive @ $225 a pair.

    If I had the skills and tools, I'd take John's route. Great photos and thanks for sharing.

    -Chuck
     
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  16. streetgrande69

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    OMFG, I JUST PRICED THE TUBING, ITS $2.85 A ft. SO $1.40(6") PER PAIR
    THE BEARINGS ARE ONLY $3 EA., SO $6 A PAIR

    $7.50-ISH FOR PARTS PER PAIR, I GOT 2 SETS OF USED PERCHES ON E-BAY FOR $5 A PAIR AND $9 A PAIR.
    THIS IS THE CHEAPEST MOD EVER, PLUS THERE ARE A TON OF THESE PERCHES AT THE BONE YARD IF I NEED MORE.

    AS I SAID A-LONG TIME BEFORE.........JOHN, YOUR COOL :hail2:
     
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  17. Opentracker

    Opentracker Member

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    The bearings are cheap, the tubing is cheap, the perches are free most of the time, it takes tools, time and effort. Getting the shaft out without doing any damage to it is the hard part on this mod. It took me all day to do the first one.

    The last thing I do is make room for the shock bolts. Shove two round pry bars up the shock bolt holes and squeese till it looks like this .


    It is a cheap mod if you can do the work.




    John
     
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  18. streetmod

    streetmod New Member

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    Opentracker

    Thanks! I wonder how this idea would work out on the UCA pivot points?

    About the tubing, could you clarify the size, 2"? O.D., I.D., wall thickness?
     
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  19. RajunCajun

    RajunCajun New Member

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    Info you need
    the R# is measured in 16ths so 14/16" is 7/8" which is the inside bore of this style bearing and the 2RS part means sealed on both sides 1RS means sealed only on one side.
     
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  20. Opentracker

    Opentracker Member

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    It could work for the upper arm pivot using a smaller bearing. I have worked on it some already. The shaft is the problem at this point. I don't have a way to make 'em.



    The bearing for the spring perch is 7/8" ID and 1 7/8" OD. The tubing is 1 7/8" ID and 2" OD. After the welding is done the tubing shrinks a little so I use a drum sander to clean up the inside before the bearing goes in.


    John
     
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