starting my swap

Oh I forgot to ask where is the donor motor coming from??? you staying efi or going carb?? You also need to look at the wiring as the dashes are not compatible from year to year. I cant see them in the pics but are the vacuum reservoirs still on the V8 car under the passenger side fender? You'll need those. If you are staying EFI they you'll need the vacuum tree on the firewall as the 4cyl one is way different. There are a few threads on here for swaps. I did mine in a weekend to include suspension. I had a helping hand too. Although I think the most helping we did was hand a beer to each other every 10-15 minutes while working.
 
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Oh I forgot to ask where is the donor motor coming from??? you staying efi or going carb?? You also need to look at the wiring as the dashes are not compatible from year to year. I cant see them in the pics but are the vacuum reservoirs still on the V8 car under the passenger side fender? You'll need those. If you are staying EFI they you'll need the vacuum tree on the firewall as the 4cyl one is way different. There are a few threads on here for swaps. I did mine in a weekend to include suspension. I had a helping hand too. Although I think the most helping we did was hand a beer to each other every 10-15 minutes while working.

lol thanks for the translation. the donor car is an 89 gt vert, and the notch is a 91 i already got the wire harness needed out of a 93 gt, and no i wont go carb. im new to this world i owned a honda before my stang, so as you can teel i dont know what im doing lol but im slowly learning. cars are my passion i wanna learn all i can and ended up geting a fox body because i fell in love with the way they look. so the vacuum reservoirs under the passenger side fender how do i swap it without taking the fender off the notch is there a way.
 
so i did a little swap search and didnt get much out of it lol those of you that have done the swap did you keep your fuel lines or swap them? now if i swap them how do i do it, and is it hard? does anyone have piks? thanks in advace guys:nice:
 
YOU HAVE TO SWAP FUEL LINES. and I think brake lines too. The reason being is they are on opposite sides of the car from 4cyl to v-8. If you were to leave the lines they would be too close to the dual exhaust for one and two they come out on the wrong side. Not hard to do. Just need to drill out the rivets and take out a few bolts.

vacuum reservoirs- no you have to take the fender off to get to them.



Engine harness- Since the donor car is an 89 then the computer and engine harness are compatible with whatever car you put them in. WHy do you have a harness from a 93?? From what I remember when I worked on my swap stay away from the 93 harness because the underdash stuff was not compatible with anything.

My swap was a little easier as I had an 88 4cyl and a 89 gt mass air donor car. So they were totally compatible. But when getting into the 90's the wiring got a little difficult as far as computer and interior wiring. I think 92-93 works well together and then 90 and 91 were stand alones.... hopefully someone on here will chime in.


here are a few links- http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/803592-4cyl-5-0-swap.html

this is a good one
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/516785-what-exactly-do-i-need-convert-mine-5-0-a.html
 
WHy do you have a harness from a 93?? From what I remember when I worked on my swap stay away from the 93 harness because the underdash stuff was not compatible with anything.

My swap was a little easier as I had an 88 4cyl and a 89 gt mass air donor car. So they were totally compatible. But when getting into the 90's the wiring got a little difficult as far as computer and interior wiring. I think 92-93 works well together and then 90 and 91 were stand alones.... [/url]

i had heard the same thing about the years but i looked at some other swap thrads and someone else had a 91 and used the 93 harness it was plug and play, the 90 was stand alone, at least thats what i had heard. so i went out today for a bit and did the pasenger side brake swap lines, spindle, caliper, and pads, i also put one of the new shocks i have, i havent put the springs in, i need a spring compresor for that anyways. after i did the one side i took the car around the block, and the stearing weal was outa wack or outa alignment and it seemd to stear freely like it didnt have power stearing but it does. does anyone have an idea what could be wrong, i plan to finish the other side tomarrow. before i forget, does anyone have pics of what the brake lines look like so i can start that asap.





thanks david
 
i had heard the same thing about the years but i looked at some other swap thrads and someone else had a 91 and used the 93 harness it was plug and play, the 90 was stand alone, at least thats what i had heard. so i went out today for a bit and did the pasenger side brake swap lines, spindle, caliper, and pads, i also put one of the new shocks i have, i havent put the springs in, i need a spring compresor for that anyways. after i did the one side i took the car around the block, and the stearing weal was outa wack or outa alignment and it seemd to stear freely like it didnt have power stearing but it does. does anyone have an idea what could be wrong, i plan to finish the other side tomarrow. before i forget, does anyone have pics of what the brake lines look like so i can start that asap.

thanks david

I am not sure where to begin on this one. You dont need a spring compression tool and most spring compressors you can get from the local parts rental store arent the right one anyways. There are a ton of threads on here on how to swap out springs, check'em out. Albeit the stock v-8 springs are a pain to get in there but since you have them out put in some good lowering springs. They are better than the 20 yr old stuff and easier to get in there.

When you put the driver side suspension in the steering should be fine. You cant expect to run two different types of suspension on either side of the car and have it drive correctly. You will need an alignment too as the car wont sit right going from 4cyl-v-8.



I wouldnt drive it until you have it all buttoned up. Might ruin some suspension parts as they 4cyl and V8 arent meant to run together like that.
 
I am not sure where to begin on this one. You dont need a spring compression tool and most spring compressors you can get from the local parts rental store arent the right one anyways. There are a ton of threads on here on how to swap out springs, check'em out. Albeit the stock v-8 springs are a pain to get in there but since you have them out put in some good lowering springs. They are better than the 20 yr old stuff and easier to get in there.

When you put the driver side suspension in the steering should be fine. You cant expect to run two different types of suspension on either side of the car and have it drive correctly. You will need an alignment too as the car wont sit right going from 4cyl-v-8.



I wouldnt drive it until you have it all buttoned up. Might ruin some suspension parts as they 4cyl and V8 arent meant to run together like that.

what would be a good inexpencive spring to buy for my car then. so next week i should have the motors pulled and swaped over, as for the fuel lines etc ill take my time and do it rite. I finaly got my friend to help me and bring his engine hoist since hes moveing bacl to L.A in a week i figured id bust azz get the big stuff out the way, i'll be takeing piks along the way, it'll be time before i do inteareor work or paint, rite now i just wanna get it runing and save for all the other stuff. the car is an aod any sugestions on shifter, shift kit, tourqe converter, and gears.
 
I have c springs on mine now. I had sportlines which I love and the car handled great but you really need a nice shock and strut to go with them. felt like crap until I put the new shocks on.
 
I have c springs on mine now. I had sportlines which I love and the car handled great but you really need a nice shock and strut to go with them. felt like crap until I put the new shocks on.

i went ahead and cut the springs for now, its just temp till i can save up for somthing beter. as of late ive been working as much as i can after work till i get tired, so far ive swaped the spindles, rotors, calipers, springs, and soft lines. i plan on pulling the motor on my next day off and swaping the rear end, put control arms, springs, and shoks.
 
After I finished my V8 brake swap, I had horrible toe in. I couldn't even hardly drive the car out of the shop until I adjusted the tie rods.

Have someone hold the steering wheel straight, then adjust the tie rods. Pull a tape on the front of the tires and then on the back, keep adjusting until they measure the same on both sides. This will get you a pretty decent alignment until you have the cash to have it done at a shop.
 
After I finished my V8 brake swap, I had horrible toe in. I couldn't even hardly drive the car out of the shop until I adjusted the tie rods.

Have someone hold the steering wheel straight, then adjust the tie rods. Pull a tape on the front of the tires and then on the back, keep adjusting until they measure the same on both sides. This will get you a pretty decent alignment until you have the cash to have it done at a shop.

hey thanks for the tip bro.
 
ok heres an update, so i didnt get all i wanted to get done today, but i atleast got the motor pulled out the car i also had a late start as well, but im going to try and get the rear end swaped, and motor swaped tomarrow, and then ill take my time swaping fuel lines etc. im hopeing to get it fired up and go get the car alighnment done so im hopeing it will run in a month or so.
 
After I finished my V8 brake swap, I had horrible toe in. I couldn't even hardly drive the car out of the shop until I adjusted the tie rods.

Have someone hold the steering wheel straight, then adjust the tie rods. Pull a tape on the front of the tires and then on the back, keep adjusting until they measure the same on both sides. This will get you a pretty decent alignment until you have the cash to have it done at a shop.

hey you pmed me before on the rear brake line swap can you explaine it to again and also if you could post those pics again you helped me out alot with the front lines so im hopeing you can help with the rear thanks again for the help bro
 
There are 2 ways to do the rear. One way is to retain the routing of the 4 cylinder brake line, and then swap the crossover line that is on the axle, which is easiest. Because All you have to do is pull the brake line from the 7.5in 4 banger axle and put it on the 8.8 axle that's going back under your swap car.

The only problem is it interferes some with your passenger side exhaust mount, but it's still easily do-able. All V8 cars have the brake line going through part of the driveshaft tunnel and connecting at the center of the car.

The harder way to do it would be to swap over the complete brake line from the firewall all the way back to the axle.
To do it this way you have to pull out the passenger side inner fender, and drill out about 6 rivets. I had to convert mine over this way in order to do my rear disc brake swap. It's a royal PITA.

I'll see if I can find that picture you mentioned. It should still be in your PM box if you haven't deleted your messages.
 
im going to run dumps so im not worried about it hiting id rather do it the easy way lol. so far this swap has been fun im learning alot yea its been somwhat a pain but its all good lol and thanks again man i apreciate your help