Still having starting issues?

[MeanGreen]

Ok so I replaced my starter with a Hi-Torque Mini Starter as well as a 3G Alternator upgrade from PA Performance. I also just got a Optima Red Top Battery. Replaced my Spark plugs as well as the spark plug wires.

It is still taking 2 to 3 times to turn the car over and start up. WTF
My ignition is all stock still but could that really be the problem? I have Edelbrock Heads/ Cam/ and E303 Cam and all the other bolt on stuff.

With all the stuff listed that thing should fire right up and not take 2 to 3 times


Any advice?

 

[HISSIN50]

More info bitte. From the parts replaced, it sounds like you were having an issue with it turning over slowly.

But then from the talk of taking 2-3 times to turn-over and start (more info about that comment alone please), it sounded like a possible engine management issue and a 'cranks but has a hard time catching' issue.

Also post any codes you're seeing.

Good luck.

 

[MeanGreen]

More info bitte. From the parts replaced, it sounds like you were having an issue with it turning over slowly.

But then from the talk of taking 2-3 times to turn-over and start (more info about that comment alone please), it sounded like a possible engine management issue and a 'cranks but has a hard time catching' issue.

Also post any codes you're seeing.

Good luck.

Well the starter originally took a **** on me so I replaced it as well as the Alternator because that was going bad also.

Still taking awhile to turn over so I replaced the battery because it was old and I heard good stuff about Optima. Started up nice for a week but now its back to 2 -3 cranks till it turns over.
I dont have any codes. The check engine light is not on.

 

[88mouse]

whats your timing set at?

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is less than $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/p-7208-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx– It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.