Grabbin' Asphalt
5 Year Member
Stock Foxbody Worth?
- Thread starter Ant85
- Start date
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Mr. Snrub
Active Member
3 grand??? If he's stuck on that car, which he seems to be.. $1500 tops.. who's gonna buy it with damage like that? It looks bad in the pics, I imagine it looks 1000 times worse in real life.
Did he even look underneath it yet?
The only car that should be fixed with fiberglass is a Corvette. Even then, I'd pull the motor and scrap the rest 
I'm not stuck on the car. I've got a budget of $5,000 to spend. I've been searching every thing you can think to find used cars within 100 miles. There's seems to be more outside of my city so by the time I see the ad and have to wait until I get off work at a decent time the cars end up selling. I thought $5,000 would be a good in the middle price. I'm not looking for a junker and I dont want a fully modded out one.
Keep looking, it took me 7 months to find mine and find the right balance between quality and price. It can get frustrating, but you will see the prices come down when sellers realize they are crazy in their asking price.
youd be surprised how many cars have body filler in them, most any car thats been restored has some amount of it, theres no way to get a straight smooth finish wirh out it if you weld in body panels.The only car that should be fixed with fiberglass is a Corvette. Even then, I'd pull the motor and scrap the rest
91TwighlightGT
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
So, if the speedometer doesn't work it doesn't really have just 144K, either. Like most Fox Bodies, the mileage is basically a guess at this point. The advertised mileage on these cars is a joke that has been around longer than knock-knock.
The speedometer should be a simple fix - 99% of the time it is the speedo itself or the cable.
Here's my problem with the clutch diagnosis - if it is an easy fix, why wouldn't he just fix it? It may not be a big deal, but it sounds like something more problematic. Why does he say it needs to be adjusted? My bet is it has a transmission problem, like worn synchronizers.
5K is too much IMO - have you priced paint and body work in your area? It sounds like a 3-3.5K car, and maybe not even that if the transmission is screwed.
The speedometer should be a simple fix - 99% of the time it is the speedo itself or the cable.
Here's my problem with the clutch diagnosis - if it is an easy fix, why wouldn't he just fix it? It may not be a big deal, but it sounds like something more problematic. Why does he say it needs to be adjusted? My bet is it has a transmission problem, like worn synchronizers.
5K is too much IMO - have you priced paint and body work in your area? It sounds like a 3-3.5K car, and maybe not even that if the transmission is screwed.
Agreed, I grew up working around a body shop, but I meant fiberglass, which is a huuuuge difference
steedamatt
Premium Sponsor
The price on fox body mustangs is coming up. When I got a loan for my current one like 7 or 8 years ago the buying price was $2,800 and the bank said they would not loan more then $2,500 for that vehicle for the value they saw on KBB. Now that they are classics KBB does not list anything past 20 years. If you look on NADA the average price is $7,500 and a high is $10,500. Even low retail is over $5,000. I know its circumstantial due to condition but it is a good indicaton that the value of these cars is going up. In 1996 I bought my first 1991 lx for around $6500 in great shape with low miles and it was only 5 years old.
91TwighlightGT
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
I honestly can't stand red interior, but replacing the seats with black ones would help a lot I think. I'm sure they make some kind of paint to paint the panels and rest of the dash if it still bothers me. Just wish the car was black or red so it wouldn't look so out of place. Interior color isn't a main concern for me. Like you said, no rust issues and going to see how well the rest of the car is. Judging by the pictures with brown grass and no leaves on trees it looks like it was taken in the fall/winter.
A clean red interior is WAAAAAY better than a dirty, black interior...or one with a crappy paint job.
That interior looks clean. Pick up some black SN95 seats (front and back) and swap them in and call it a day. Black hatch carpet, black main carpet, keep it clean and you'll love it.
I HATE seeing people put crappy, painted black interiors and pull out a nice clean blue or red interior.
PS..hope that BBK intake was installed well. Known to have issues
Not bad. If there is no rust I would offer 38-3900. Like Mike said watch out for that intake they are known to have trouble sealing. Check for oil pooled around the distributor, that's a tell tale sign. If there is, offer a little less and go pick up an explorer intake for cheap.
Went to go look at the last one I posted. Pulled up and noticed how dirty it looked. Front wheels almost looked black from all the brake dust so I had a bad feeling about where this was going. First thing I noticed is that I could not find the three bars on the heads showing that they were GT40 heads, but then again in pictures I've seen the bars on the heads were off the car, but I'm pretty sure I could see enough to know there weren't bars on the heads. The heads didn't even look touched. This was after the guy said the bottom end had been rebuilt. The guy knew what three bars I was talking about but when I said I didn't see them on the heads he didn't have much to say about it. Looked around some more and saw some oil leaking from the valve cover and behind the distributor. Went for the test drive. Gears and clutch felt good. I go to stop and the brake pedal had to be almost to the floor before it would even begin to stop and also pulled left while braking. By the sound the rear was making I would of thought it had mud tires on the back. Got back and thought maybe the tires were cupped on the back, but they were smooth, so I assume something in the rear end was causing that noise. Popped the hood to see if anything new showed up after driving it. There was hardly any brake fluid in the master cylinder. There was barely any oil showing on the dip stick(this was after he said he changed the oil recently and it was 'fresh'). Oil filter did not look new and what was showing on the stick looked very dark. Looked for rust and didn't really see any except for on the driver's side torque box. You could stick a couple of fingers in it from it being rusted out. I was ready to walk at that point, but to entertain myself I asked what the lowest he would take for it and he said he has to have $4,500.... So I left.
This is getting frustrating, but I appreciate everyone's help so far as to prices and what to stay away from. Maybe I should make a new thread called "should I buy this car? no? what about this one? or this one? lol
