yeah its a little wierd but my A/C blows cold while my car is moving, when I come to a stop it gets warm
then gets cold again when I start moving. What is this?
then gets cold again when I start moving. What is this?Strange A/C problem
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trombonedemon
Well-Known Member
Sounds like your clutch is stuck. The pressure switch engages it. The clutch engages the piston to create pressure. Tell me somthing does your car lose horsepower when you turn you A/C on. If not then your clutch is stuck.
I dont feel a power lose with the A/C on. If the clutch is stuck....can I get it loose or do I need a A/C pro for that? where is it? around or on the compressor?
Almost forgot, there is a clicking noise coming from the compressor area when the A/C is on.
trombonedemon
Well-Known Member
Yea, sounds like you need a new compressor, sorry, the clutch is around the compressor. It probaly the clutch trying to dissengage or vice versa. You would want to get a new compressor since sounds like its always on. Once it goes bad, you need to replace the whole setup, a/c compressor that is. Have you notice that your gas mileage is terrible? Once you replace it you should pic up some horses and gas mileage. Go to a shop and have them decompress your system, then start shopping for a new compressor. 120 to about 170 on ebay for a kit or just a compressor. I can give you some steps on how to replace the neccesary parts.
Dude I gotta disagree with trombone. Correct me if I'm wrong.
It sounds to me like you are low on freon. If your clutch is cycling faster than normal than it is low on freon more than likely. Also, check to make sure your cooling fan is coming on, if not than that would also explain the A/C loss of cooling because the condenser needs air to exchange the heat. Make sense?
It could also be that your compressor is not creating the pressure it needs to cool at idle, which in that case it would mean you would need a compressor. I would check the simple things first, and if you don't have access to manifold gauges then I would take it to a shop and have them check it. It may save you money in the long run. Good luck bud.
It sounds to me like you are low on freon. If your clutch is cycling faster than normal than it is low on freon more than likely. Also, check to make sure your cooling fan is coming on, if not than that would also explain the A/C loss of cooling because the condenser needs air to exchange the heat. Make sense?
It could also be that your compressor is not creating the pressure it needs to cool at idle, which in that case it would mean you would need a compressor. I would check the simple things first, and if you don't have access to manifold gauges then I would take it to a shop and have them check it. It may save you money in the long run. Good luck bud.
stangman11
Member
cooter 11,
Good call i was going to suggest the same exact thing I would first check freon pressures, then move to the cooling fan.
Good call i was going to suggest the same exact thing I would first check freon pressures, then move to the cooling fan.
trombonedemon
Well-Known Member
He said he gets cool air only when the car moves, what does that got to do with cooling fan. Plus theres a ticking noise like when the clutch is trying to engage or disengage. When the clutch engages it ticks one time them engages the piston. The ticking could the clutch trying to disengage when there is enough pressure for the air conditon to work without the piston in effect. I mean, you can check your pressures yea I would start with that if your compressor is making noise then thats the problem. How do you exlplain the no loss of horsepower when the a/c is turned on. Even if I was wrong if, your compressor is making noise then its time for a new one. Cooling fan has nothing to do with the noise out the compressor, just the condenser in front of the radiator. Never hurts to check all those things the guys mention but, it certainly sounds like your compressor is always on and the clutch is trying to disengage. Good luck.
Stangnet.
. Plus theres a ticking noise like when the clutch is trying to engage or disengage. When the clutch engages it ticks one time them engages the piston. The ticking could the clutch trying to disengage when there is enough pressure for the air conditon to work without the piston in effect. I mean, you can check your pressures yea I would start with that if your compressor is making noise then thats the problem. How do you exlplain the no loss of horsepower when the a/c is turned on. Even if I was wrong if, your compressor is making noise then its time for a new one. Cooling fan has nothing to do with the noise out the compressor, just the condenser in front of the radiator. Never hurts to check all those things the guys mention but, it certainly sounds like your compressor is always on and the clutch is trying to disengage. Good luck.Stangnet.He said he gets cool air only when the car moves, what does that got to do with cooling fan
When the clutch kicks in, it makes a noise that sounds like a click. When the charge level is low, this clicking will be somewhat rapid. It won't be like multiple clicks over the course of a second, but more like 5 seconds between clicks.
To your question about what the cooling fans have to do with the blowing warm air at a stop...This is because the A/C condensor requires airflow to keep the high side pressures down. If the fan is not operating, it won't pull air through the condensor at a stop. Air is continually moving across the condensor when moving. If the high side pressures get too high, then the low side pressure will also increase resulting in a warmer output from the vents.
A bad compressor will usually rattle or chirp when it is running, not click. The OP needs to start with checking the pressures, then verify that the electric fan is operational by turning the key on, but not starting the engine, then turn the A/C to MAX. The fan should turn on.
<-- former professional A/C tech
Also, if you want to check your compressor clutch, just unplug the low pressure cycling switch located close to the Accumulator. Best to do it with the engine running and the A/C on. Unplug the connector, then take a look at the compressor clutch. If it is not spinning, the clutch is fine. Plug it back in and see if the clutch will engage. If it will not, you could have a clutch/compressor issue. Of course you want to check the static and running pressures before doing this.
The low pressure cycling switch is calibrated to cut out at ~20 PSI and will come back on at about 40 PSI.
The low pressure cycling switch is calibrated to cut out at ~20 PSI and will come back on at about 40 PSI.
Following the advise here I went ahead and checked a few things.
1. The fan does not turn on with the motor off but does come on when you start the car.
2. I unplug the low pressure switch with the car running and the A/C on max hi and the clutch stopped spinning, plugged it back in and the clutch started to spin again.
3. Using one of those cheap guages that comes on the freon refill bottle i checked the pressure. The gauge is reading in the red at a little over 70 PSI.
Clutch never stops turning and makes a faint clicking noise. So where do I go from here?
1. The fan does not turn on with the motor off but does come on when you start the car.
2. I unplug the low pressure switch with the car running and the A/C on max hi and the clutch stopped spinning, plugged it back in and the clutch started to spin again.
3. Using one of those cheap guages that comes on the freon refill bottle i checked the pressure. The gauge is reading in the red at a little over 70 PSI.
Clutch never stops turning and makes a faint clicking noise. So where do I go from here?
that clicking is probably normal, mine makes a noise. you need to go to autozone and rent some gauges. you must know what is happening on both sides of the compressor. if not you can overfill and lock your compressor up indefinantly. don't trust the plastic bottle gauge. high should be between 230-250 and low around 35-45. a/c must be on max.have the gauge valve closed and the fitting valves open.put freon with the blue valve open on the gauges until the high side gets to 250. you are probably just low if the fan is working.
trombonedemon
Well-Known Member
It definitely couldn't be the fan b/c he didn't say his temps were hi in the engine, ah well, I hope he dosn't need a compressor too much of back and forth to a mechanic. Here is an idea take it to the local community college w/auto servicing program, they should have a machine to take the R-13a with the dye and replace it full with fresh coolant and it gives you the pressure at the same time, most schools should have it and do it for free.
it's freon, just saying. he also never said how long he came to a stop. you can come to a stop for 30 seconds and it won't overheat but a/c will have a noticeable raise in temp if the fan was bad. you don't need the fan for driving becasue air is forced through condensor and radiator to cool it. the compressor is A ok. just put a can in it and enjoy.
I have a 99 with the same issue. This is due to a leak in the condenser line.(200 dollar line) When I shut the car off I can see where the leak is as well as hear the hiss. I also had this tested at a dealership. It could be a leak in the compressor as well. You may have to get the system tested.
trombonedemon
Well-Known Member
Yea, we kind need some specific information, kind of hard to dianose some problems w/o knowing some specifics. I think he will be ok, depending on how deep his pockets is, its not the most expensive thing that could happen. Freon is going to leak no matter what, R-13a just leaks slower than R-12. Why would the clutch not broken if keeps ticking. Like its trying to disengage and engage repeatedly.
Mine ticks once when it turns on and the rpms drop a little (at idle) then clicks when it is turning off and the engine rpms go up a little (at idle) almost like a sigh of relief 
. But at Idle the air warms and when driving it will cool but that is because the the compressor can keep up with the leak at the higher than idle rpms
. But at Idle the air warms and when driving it will cool but that is because the the compressor can keep up with the leak at the higher than idle rpms
I was told by a guy at work that the coils the fan blows on could be clogged up?
Again the best I can explain it. The air blows cold when driving, once I stop the air begins to warm up, then gets cold again as I drive it. The clutch never stops spinning, when the low press switch is disconnected the clutch stops spinning, then begins again once the switch is plugged back in. The fan is on. There is a rapid faint clicking noise coming from the comppressor area at all times that the A/C is on.
Again the best I can explain it. The air blows cold when driving, once I stop the air begins to warm up, then gets cold again as I drive it. The clutch never stops spinning, when the low press switch is disconnected the clutch stops spinning, then begins again once the switch is plugged back in. The fan is on. There is a rapid faint clicking noise coming from the comppressor area at all times that the A/C is on.
First of all, it's R-134a, not R-13a.
Second of all, the molecules of R-134a are smaller than the R-12 molecules, which is why you should replace any rubber lines with updated pieces on some retrofits. The rubber used with R-12 has larger pores and allows the R-134a to escape easier. This is the ONLY time freon would leak without a failure in a more recent automotive application.
Third, freon doesn't just leak. There is ALWAYS a failure that causes the leak. Does your radiator leak "no matter what"? No, they are sealed systems and only leak when there is a failure. Same thing with any of the fluids.
Last, please stop giving bad advice when it is clear that you don't know what you are talking about. There is NOTHING wrong with his compressor clutch as it disengages and re-engages fine as tested through the low pressure cycling switch. You could cause him to spend $1k+ on a compressor job that he may not need.
To the OP, if you can, please get a good set of gauges hooked up to it. Then report back to us with the static pressure and the running pressures (high and low side). This will help us determine what your next step is.
Thanks man, gonna try to rent some gauges this weekend after I install my shocks, struts, and new headlights....busy weekend with the car
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