Strut tower brace: MM or Steeda?

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i got the steeda one cant complain installation was easy just have to remove some stuff on the passenger side to drill the holes for it, the only thing is being careful removing the black cowl where the wipers are they tend to break if not removed carefully
 
I actually felt an improvement in front end stiffness with the Steeda one, but that was my experience. I chose the Steeda one because of the option of Chrome Moly construction made it very light compared to the Mild steel versions and I like that it was triangulated (not open on one end). I didn't want to add unnecessary weight up there.

Can't say anything bad about it except that it is powder coated so you have to be very careful not to scratch it when you work on the car and when handling it during install. It can also scratch the paint on the car when maneuvering it around so I taped up the ends and took it off only when I had all the holes completed and ready to bolt on. Came with all the hardware needed to install.
 
If you're getting one then do it for appearance, not because the hype tells you it makes your car handle better
Do you have some data to support that?

Right now, I would agree if all I ever did was straight line drag racing. I tried out autocross and I can see how hard cornering while standing on the brake pedal can put a lot stress on one strut tower. I plan to install the strut tower brace and not bolt on one side. Then use some paint or masking tape to see how much it actually flexes. If I see none, then I suppose I'll remove it and sell it. If I see movement, then I know the strut tower brace is helping to keep the front end true.
 
I don't see how a few holes in your strut towers and some chromoly tubes are really going to significantly reduce strut tower flex. Hell, the K-member connects both strut towers together already, just strengthen that and you'll be good to go. A STB will help with cowl shake though, so if you're suffering from such a condition, go for it.
 
I don't see how a few holes in your strut towers and some chromoly tubes are really going to significantly reduce strut tower flex. Hell, the K-member connects both strut towers together already, just strengthen that and you'll be good to go. A STB will help with cowl shake though, so if you're suffering from such a condition, go for it.
Does the front end of the car not flex and twist under stress? When you brake hard and turn the wheel, almost all the weight of the car shifts towards that one strut. It may sound extreme but it's not uncommon in autocross. I've watched Mini Coopers lift the inside rear wheel on sharp turns. I'm thinking it's like the uni-body thing. The subframe connectors stiffen the chassis because the body of the car flexes and twists. Likewise, I can see how an STB would stiffen the front end. Like I posted earlier, I plan to rig a device to measure any flex. A buddy of mine gave me a good idea on how to measure it. We'll see if the theory is reality.

Cowl shake? What's cowl shake?
 
Does the front end of the car not flex and twist under stress? When you brake hard and turn the wheel, almost all the weight of the car shifts towards that one strut. It may sound extreme but it's not uncommon in autocross. I've watched Mini Coopers lift the inside rear wheel on sharp turns. I'm thinking it's like the uni-body thing. The subframe connectors stiffen the chassis because the body of the car flexes and twists. Likewise, I can see how an STB would stiffen the front end. Like I posted earlier, I plan to rig a device to measure any flex. A buddy of mine gave me a good idea on how to measure it. We'll see if the theory is reality.

Cowl shake? What's cowl shake?

and you would find flex, approximately 1/4in, doesn't mean it's a problem, the mustangs strut towers are strong enough as they are


cowl shake is the twisting and bending of the car since it's opened at the top, the firewall and steering wheel feel the most vibration from it
 
This is another one of those endless internet debates. All I can say about it is that when I've taken a strut tower brace off any mustang, you have to jack the car up from the k-member just so the strut towers will separate enough to put the STB back on... Thats all I need to see to make me feel like the STB is doing something. I think the ones that only connect the strut towers are worthless, but a three point that ties into the firewall seems a little more sensible. Ford has put three point strut tower braces on Mustangs since at least the 60's. I can't see that Ford would spend the money on something like that purely for cosmetic purposes. I mean our interiors are proof that Ford doesn't go the extra mile on appearance/aesthetics.
 
This is another one of those endless internet debates. All I can say about it is that when I've taken a strut tower brace off any mustang, you have to jack the car up from the k-member just so the strut towers will separate enough to put the STB back on... Thats all I need to see to make me feel like the STB is doing something. I think the ones that only connect the strut towers are worthless, but a three point that ties into the firewall seems a little more sensible. Ford has put three point strut tower braces on Mustangs since at least the 60's. I can't see that Ford would spend the money on something like that purely for cosmetic purposes. I mean our interiors are proof that Ford doesn't go the extra mile on appearance/aesthetics.

I thought they stiffened up the platform in 1998 and thus they were no longer needed? :shrug: I have a Steeda STB on my car, and wish I would have spent or saved the money to put towards a better part. I did not really notice a difference.

I know this is off topic a little, but I have a problem with my STB. I purchased a MAC CAI and for some reason they sent me a 80MM intake tube, instead of the more common 70 or 75. This tube rubs on the STB and has scratched off the powdercoating, and the chrome finish on the CAI. I've tried my best to adjust the CAI so that it does not touch the STB, but it does not work. It really irritates me and really makes me wish I didn't buy it.
 
I thought they stiffened up the platform in 1998 and thus they were no longer needed? :shrug:
They didn't connect the front and rear subframes because they felt it wasn't necessary. Maybe not for grandma driving a Mustang to the grocery. But we push our cars harder than that. Hard enough to justify subframe connectors. So why would we say STBs are not justified?
 
They didn't connect the front and rear subframes because they felt it wasn't necessary. Maybe not for grandma driving a Mustang to the grocery. But we push our cars harder than that. Hard enough to justify subframe connectors. So why would we say STBs are not justified?

I understand what you are saying, but I thought they stiffened up the front end of the Mustang in 1998 to the point where STB's were no longer needed?

I suppose if your car is pushed hard enough it can benefit from STB's. However, I would think you would first need a solid suspension set up, and be doing some serious racing to actually notice the difference.
 
I'm thinking they removed it as a cost savings since most people (in their mind) don't drive the car hard enough to stress the front end. That 'most people' includes drag racers. However, autocross is a different story and for that application, it might be worth it. And that's why I want to do the experiment to see how much movement and flex there really is.
 
I suppose if your car is pushed hard enough it can benefit from STB's. However, I would think you would first need a solid suspension set up, and be doing some serious racing to actually notice the difference.

Ultimately I believe you are correct. Most Mustang owners never get over 300 Horsepower out of their cars and they don't go very far with suspension mods... and I'm betting most think that they are really pushing their car hard, when they aren't even close to the limits. For them, I'd say a strut tower brace is useless.

I consider my car to have just a tad bit better suspension than stock and I float all four tires in the twisties. I like pushing the envelope so even after I get the KB on top of my new long block I'm going to get a MM 03/04 cobra STB to replace my stock one.

I've got:

Polyurithane swaybar bushings & a-arm bushings
X2 Ball joints
Bump Steer kit
2" fixed rate springs
Tokico's
CC plates
SFC's
UCA's & LCA's
Solid rear sway bar

I've heard alot of avid auto-X'rs scold the strut tower brace, but the only bad thing it can do is add weight to the front end. So if you want one, go for it. It certainly can't hurt, and even if it does nothing it only cost $150.00...

MM seems to be the winner in every suspension choice so if you're looking for the best quality, I'd cast my vote for MM.