Subframe And Control Arm Damage

j0rd4n

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Jul 29, 2013
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So I just bought a 93 notch and didn't notice until now that he must have hit a curb or rock because the lower control arm is smashed in and the subframe as well. It doesn't seem too serious but I could be wrong. It looks like the control arm can just be replaced and the subframe bent back. Where the bolt goes into the control arm doesn't look bent just folded a little and will need to be bent back. I tried to take some pictures let me know what you guys think.
 
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Do you have a body shop you trust. Might want to pay them to rack it, and see how bad it is. You might get lucky, and just replace some front end parts. I had a 85 gt that the insurance paid me off. Body shop said totaled. The guy that bought it from me after wreck took one look, and said quarter panel, and some stretching on his rack. He owned a body shop. He made a killing off me. If they or you can't get it straight, you'll never get rid of pull to right, or tire wear. Keep us posted.


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It doesn't seem to pull at all and the alignment seems ok but I haven't owned it long enough to notice unusual tire wear. I have noticed too there is a lot of movement in the inner tie rod on that side when I jack that side up and pull on the wheel with my hands at 9 and 3 o clock. I do have a body shop I trust so I'll take it to him and see what he says. Hopefully I do get lucky because other than this problem and some sketchy wiring the car is in good condition. I just don't want to pull it apart and not be able to get a new control arm in that spot
 
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It doesn't seem to pull at all and the alignment seems ok but I haven't owned it long enough to notice unusual tire wear. I have noticed too there is a lot of movement in the inner tie rod on that side when I jack that side up and pull on the wheel with my hands at 9 and 3 o clock. I do have a body shop I trust so I'll take it to him and see what he says. Hopefully I do get lucky because other than this problem and some sketchy wiring the car is in good condition. I just don't want to pull it apart and not be able to get a new control arm in that spot
 
Parts are always available one way or another. You can change just the inner tie rod end, or throw another rack on. Being it's been in an accident, new rack is probably better. Your friend at body shop can tell you if your alignments right. As far as wiring, all of these fox mustangs have some issues with electrical. Did you get yours for a good price?


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I wouldn't yank that control arm out. I don't think you'll get a new one in.

I'd prob replace the k member, but that's just me


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No hoist needed just use a wood block between the oil pan and jack. Or use a 4x4 from each strut tower and ratchet straps hooked to the headers. Had the k member out if my 2014 that way. Same concept.


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Pulled a Datsun 510 motor out that way. Didn't want to pay for cherry picker, so rigged a chain around motor, used a 4x4 hunk of wood. Me and a buddy pulled it out/in that way. 5.0 Ford a wee bit heavier!


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I couldn't give away my stock k member. If you can't afford aftermarket, i'm sure you can find a stock one for cheap.

Joe

If I'm gonna do it I might as well go with a tubular one so I'd probably just save up before I start taking it off. If you run a tubular k frame tho can i still run stock control arms on it until I get tubular control arms ?

Another question about the inner tie rod, shouldn't the movement be in the spherical joint? I noticed the movement I have is deeper inside the rack where I can't see, not where the inner tie rod pivots. Maybe I need a whole new rack after all
 
If I'm gonna do it I might as well go with a tubular one so I'd probably just save up before I start taking it off. If you run a tubular k frame tho can i still run stock control arms on it until I get tubular control arms ?

Another question about the inner tie rod, shouldn't the movement be in the spherical joint? I noticed the movement I have is deeper inside the rack where I can't see, not where the inner tie rod pivots. Maybe I need a whole new rack after all
I have an AJE kmember that I've had for years. Its holding up good with stock control arms. You could use an engine support bar from harbor freight and support the motor. You could then put the car on jack stands and take the k member out the bottom with the rack and pinion. Not a real complicated job at all.
 
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