- Mar 6, 2012
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Now that my car is going to be putting down 400 or so rwhp, I am going to need to upgrade my suspension. What are you guys running and what do you suggest? I would like the car to sit lower but still have decent ride quality.
Suspension Suggestions For Suspension Upgrades
- Thread starter 94blackcobra
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Well unfortunately any suspension upgrades you do are going to make the car ride harder. It can still be managed though. Most suspension kits drop the car about an 1 and 1/4" to 1 and 1/2". Make sure you re install the isolators to preserve ride quality. I've been using Steeda stuff for a long time. I know where it's made, and it's generally good quality stuff. Most people go for the Maximum Motorsports stuff because it's considered to be the best, but it is priced accordingly. Not sure what you're budget is. The key items start in the back. You definitely have to change all 4 rear control arms to handle that kind of power. You are going to want standard bushing arms, not rod ends for good ride quality. For the lowers, just get some decent box frame lowers. The uppers are available in a fixed heavy duty design, or an adjustable design. The adjustable uppers adjust to correct your pinion angle to get maximum torque into the rear end, but they cost more.
Definitely install subframe connectors if you haven't already. A standard round or square tube subframe connector, it makes little difference will be fine. There are 6 point ones available that bolt to the bottom of the seat rack bolts for extra strength. Again, they cost a little more money than the 4 point ones, but that is money well spent.
All of the aftermarket lowering springs are about the same. I use the Steeda ones because I know they are made in America. These actually don't go bad very easily, and you can get a good deal on used ones if money is tight. You could also go for the Eibach ones, or something similiar. It's not going to make a whole lot of difference.
If you want good ride quality, than I would suggest going with an adjustable shock and strut. Like most people, I thought the Tokico 5 position adjustables were god, and that's what I put in my car. One time I was in a bind to get shocks and struts that day for another car, and the only thing I could find locally was a set of KYB 12 position shocks and struts from Summit (yes we have a Summit warehouse local here). The adjustable KYBs were priced the same as the non adjustable Tokicos. They actually rode better than my Tokicos and the adjustment knobs were sturdier and in an easier to get to location. When you turned them on full stiff they were firmer than the Tokicos also. I'm a KYB man now, no doubt about it. You simply can't beat them for the price.
You are going to need adjustable caster/camber plates with the lowering springs. The factory design has 3 bolts on each plate. Recently they have started offering 4 bolt caster/camber plates that require you to auger out another big hole in your strut tower for the 4th bolt. We have been putting coil over kits (where all the weight off the suspension is on the caster/camber plate) on cars with 3 bolt plates for years. As far as I'm concerned the 4th bolt is a gimic and totally unnecessary, so don't waste your money and time on them. If 3 bolts is enough to support coil overs, than it's more than enough with the springs in the stock location. Shop around for a good set, they are all about the same. Just make sure it's an all steel design, not aluminum. This is also a good time to replace your front control arm bushings if they need it. They typically don't go bad that often, and they are a huge hassle to install. It's also a good time to replace the ball joint in the front if it's bad. Keep in mind, the ball joint has to be pressed in. You can put a factory replacement in, or an X2 ball joint from Steeda to improve the steering geometry with a lowered car.
The outer tie rod ends in the front go bad often in these cars. This is a good time to replace them. You can either throw a factory replacement set in there, or get a bumpsteer kit. The bumpsteer kits make toe adjustments easier.
This is your typical improved Mustang suspension setup. There are lots of other things you can do, like stiffer sway bars, and even 5 link setups, and Watt's links. If you get through this and still have some money left over, then it's time to go from there.
Kurt
Definitely install subframe connectors if you haven't already. A standard round or square tube subframe connector, it makes little difference will be fine. There are 6 point ones available that bolt to the bottom of the seat rack bolts for extra strength. Again, they cost a little more money than the 4 point ones, but that is money well spent.
All of the aftermarket lowering springs are about the same. I use the Steeda ones because I know they are made in America. These actually don't go bad very easily, and you can get a good deal on used ones if money is tight. You could also go for the Eibach ones, or something similiar. It's not going to make a whole lot of difference.
If you want good ride quality, than I would suggest going with an adjustable shock and strut. Like most people, I thought the Tokico 5 position adjustables were god, and that's what I put in my car. One time I was in a bind to get shocks and struts that day for another car, and the only thing I could find locally was a set of KYB 12 position shocks and struts from Summit (yes we have a Summit warehouse local here). The adjustable KYBs were priced the same as the non adjustable Tokicos. They actually rode better than my Tokicos and the adjustment knobs were sturdier and in an easier to get to location. When you turned them on full stiff they were firmer than the Tokicos also. I'm a KYB man now, no doubt about it. You simply can't beat them for the price.
You are going to need adjustable caster/camber plates with the lowering springs. The factory design has 3 bolts on each plate. Recently they have started offering 4 bolt caster/camber plates that require you to auger out another big hole in your strut tower for the 4th bolt. We have been putting coil over kits (where all the weight off the suspension is on the caster/camber plate) on cars with 3 bolt plates for years. As far as I'm concerned the 4th bolt is a gimic and totally unnecessary, so don't waste your money and time on them. If 3 bolts is enough to support coil overs, than it's more than enough with the springs in the stock location. Shop around for a good set, they are all about the same. Just make sure it's an all steel design, not aluminum. This is also a good time to replace your front control arm bushings if they need it. They typically don't go bad that often, and they are a huge hassle to install. It's also a good time to replace the ball joint in the front if it's bad. Keep in mind, the ball joint has to be pressed in. You can put a factory replacement in, or an X2 ball joint from Steeda to improve the steering geometry with a lowered car.
The outer tie rod ends in the front go bad often in these cars. This is a good time to replace them. You can either throw a factory replacement set in there, or get a bumpsteer kit. The bumpsteer kits make toe adjustments easier.
This is your typical improved Mustang suspension setup. There are lots of other things you can do, like stiffer sway bars, and even 5 link setups, and Watt's links. If you get through this and still have some money left over, then it's time to go from there.
Kurt
- Mar 6, 2012
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Coil overs are big money. Lots of people don't like them because they creak, and you are kind of limited on how wide of a tire you can run up front. They are better, but not terribly practical for a street car.
Kurt
Kurt
Eventually when your motor is out and you're repainting the engine bay then change to tubular K-Member and coilovers. For now a street car needs-springs, sub frame connnectors, upper / lower rear control arms. Strange makes 10 way adjustable shocks / struts, I do these too. You can buy these at TeamZ suspensions for pretty cheap.
Sharad
ALWAYS choose the V over the P!!! Wait... what?
In order to give you the best advice, we need more information about the car. Also, are you more interested in cornering or maybe you're more into straight line performance?
- Mar 6, 2012
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I am going to start with subframe connectors and rear control arms. I called one place and they quoted $360 to install the subframe connectors, which seems awfully high to me so I am on the hunt for a better price. KYB has a set of adjustable shocks and struts listed for just over $400 and I found a low mileage set of ford c springs for a pretty good price. The overall goal is to improve handling and launch capabilities and make the car more fun drive.
- Mar 6, 2012
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UPR subframes are like $59, special on Stangnet. You should be able to find someone for $100 to weld them in, total $159. Most muffler shops will do it.
Most places won't do it without pulling up the carpet, that's why. If you get the metal too hot, it will light the carpet on fire. Some places have done it enough times, that they feel confident about doing it without pulling carpet.
Kurt
Kurt
Sharad
ALWAYS choose the V over the P!!! Wait... what?
Yup. These ones retail for $59.95, and we actually offer Stangnet members a 10% discount off of that. Super inexpensive!
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-max-cross-subframe-connectors.html
And yes, they're easy to install so you shouldn't have much trouble finding a local shop to weld them on.
Just make sure whomever does the welding has a drive on lift. If they are welded in with the suspension hanging you will permanently have a arched/bowed chassis.
Husky44
10 Year Member
FWIW, I run the Eibach setup, and bought my springs and shocks/struts as a kit. Not saying mix and match won't work, but in my opinion you're going to get a little better performance when you buy a setup from a reputable brand that's designed to work together.
I'm really happy with this setup:
I'm really happy with this setup:
- Eibach Pro-Kit (springs and shocks/struts)
- MMS CC Plates
- MMS rear LCAs
- MMS Subframes
+ at least 2. This is super important, and I forgot to mention it. I have to cut the subframes back down from the Cobra because some asstard welded them on on a 2 post lift, and the doors rub every time you close them now.
Kurt
Husky44
10 Year Member
If you're not rich enough to have a lift in your garage, you can guard against this by making sure your jackstands are positioned so that the weight is on the suspension...
Plus, it's a lot more fun to weld while lying on your back.
- Mar 6, 2012
- 245
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