Suspension clunk and steering rack bushings

#21
I have the same problem. Going over bumps you can hear a dull thunk. My brother has the exact same set up as me sans ball joints. I've tightened my MM caster/camber plates, put on Steeda X2 ball joints and replaced my rack bushing with MM urethane ones. The clunk/thud is still there and my bump steer is horrendous.

I'm going to try the tie rod ends next and give my A-arms a good look over.
 

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#22
The pop/clunk noise got noticably worse over the weekend. I looked under the car bug couldn't see any "rack brackets" or looseness anywhere. I did a little more searching on the internet and found a site for Mustang TSBs http://www.mustangforums.com/recalls-and-tsbs/tsb.htm . 0395 sounds promising. I made an appointment with the dealer for next Monday. Hopefully they'll know what it is.

Bulletin #: 0395
Sequence #: 10002778
Date: 05/12/2003
Component Name: 020000 suspension
Make: Ford
Model: Mustang
Year: 1999
Summary: Popping type noise while turning into or out of an incline, such as turning into a driveway, at low speeds (below 15 mph (25 km/h). *tt

Thanks,
Jim
 
#23
So what can I do to narrow down the cause of my pop/clunk noise? Here are the various things that it could be (based on a lot of forum searching and replies). I'm pretty new to messing with suspension, so any help is appreciated. Ideally, I'd love to try to narrow down a few this weekend... and if I could do some easy things to troubleshoot this without ruining my alignment- that would be great!

MM 4 bolt CC Plates. MRT Street kit (Tokico struts, MRT springs). Poly rack bushings and spring isolators.

  1. Steering rack bushings Just replaced with poly: no change in pop/clunk.
  2. Steering rack brackets Someone mentioned these, but I couldn't see them under the car? Rack looks directly bolted to the frame through the bushings.
  3. CC Plate bearing (Maximum Motorsports) Can I check this with suspension assembled? Or without runing my alignment?
  4. Strut spacers not measured correctly Don't think this would cause a clunk noise?
  5. Struts not tightly bolted to the CC Plates How do you tighten this without the strut spinning? I have an electric impact wrench but it's still a pain?
  6. Struts defective Low chances of both left and right MRT Tokico struts being defective?
  7. Springs not seated correctly
  8. Tie rods Recently replaced - no change in pop/clunk noise.
  9. Ball joint How do you test for a bad ball joint? Can you grease these while they are still assembled?
  10. Control arm bushings Can you check these without disassembling everything? Can you grease these while they are still assembled?
  11. Sway bar bushings Unbolted end links and the noise was still present.

Thanks,
Jim
 
#24
ttt

Bulletin #: 0395
Sequence #: 002778
Summary: Popping type noise while turning into or out of an incline, such as turning into a driveway, at low speeds (below 15 mph (25 km/h). *tt

If anyone has had this TSB work done or has any ideas on how to identify a broken strut, CC Plate bearing, control arm bushing, or ball joint... I'd appreciate hearing it.

Thanks,
Jim
 
#25
Most likely your MM CC plates are not the cause of the problem - although some dealer service reps will probably tell you they are. My '04 Mach 1 makes that same pop/clunk noise and I haven't changed anything in the suspension yet. Since my Mach is already at the dealer getting the trans fixed (damn TR3650!) I'm going to have them check this problem too. I'll post when they find out something..
 
#26
DTNODYA said:
If your car has the stock K-member then you should not use offset bushings. If you have an aftermarket K-member then you should.

So no, you should not have used offset bushings. IMO

SVT can clear this up for you I'm sure.
Click to expand...
Correct. No need for offset bushings in the stock K-member. I replaced my steering rack bushings in efforts to get rid of a front end creaking noise.. Paid 40 bucks for MM aluminum bushings and 40 bucks install + alignment (40 bucks).

Wade
 
#27
The Screwdriver said:
I made an appointment with the dealer for next Monday. Hopefully they'll know what it is.

Bulletin #: 0395
Sequence #: 10002778
Date: 05/12/2003
Component Name: 020000 suspension
Make: Ford
Model: Mustang
Year: 1999
Summary: Popping type noise while turning into or out of an incline, such as turning into a driveway, at low speeds (below 15 mph (25 km/h). *tt

Thanks,
Jim
Click to expand...

What did they say?
 
#29
anyone have any more info? my 96gt is doing the exact same thing? i replaced the steering rack bushings and have yet to install new inner/outer tie end rods and ball joints. it's driving me nuts.
 
#30
dmoney182 said:
anyone have any more info? my 96gt is doing the exact same thing? i replaced the steering rack bushings and have yet to install new inner/outer tie end rods and ball joints. it's driving me nuts.
Click to expand...

The tie rod ends are inexpensive and pretty simple to install ... You can check the ball joints by jacking up the front end and trying to move the tire in/out (a push/pull motion). Put one hand on top of the tire and the other on the bottom. Push with one and pull with the other .. if there is movement then throw some new ball joints in there. Or as some would recommend (if money isn't an option) get new control arms, like MM ones, etc.
 
#31
Wow I almost forgot what a pain in the ass that clunk was.

I ended up replacing the clunking suspension with a KW coil over suspension. My clunk started when the springs/shocks/struts/ccplates were installed, and went away immediately with the new KW suspension. Love the kw coil overs... car sits super low and handles perfectly. Much more expensive than the MRT suspension + Maximum Motorsports CC Plates... but well worth it. Should have done it in the beginning, but better late then never.

Can't see any obvious damage or problem with the parts now that they're off my car, but that clunk would not go away with any amount of adjusting or replacing other parts. Mechanic that installed the KWs said it could easily be the ccplate bearing or bad strut but I didn't care enough to find out once the KWs were installed.

-Jim
 
#32
i developed the clunk steering rack noise after hitting a pothole a couple months ago.
i see no one has mentioned replacing the spring isolators and/or swaybar endlinks. my theory the isolators went bad and end links (guess). ive replaced pretty most of everything a year ago and everything was in great shape until i hit the pothole.........
im taking the car in this coming Tuesday Wednesday to, replace isolators with prothane, putting in steeda offset a arm bushings and getting dialed in/aligned.
that and im going to install the (prothane) endlinks as soon as the parts come in
 
#33
KronicRacer said:
i developed the clunk steering rack noise after hitting a pothole a couple months ago.
i see no one has mentioned replacing the spring isolators and/or swaybar endlinks. my theory the isolators went bad and end links (guess). ive replaced pretty most of everything a year ago and everything was in great shape until i hit the pothole.........
im taking the car in this coming Tuesday Wednesday to, replace isolators with prothane, putting in steeda offset a arm bushings and getting dialed in/aligned.
that and im going to install the (prothane) endlinks as soon as the parts come in
Click to expand...

Here's how mine went ... The rack bushings reduced the clunk sound greatly but it was still there. I replaced the swaybar endlinks and spring isolators (with MM urethene ones) and that fixed it completely. You're on the right track IMO
 
#34
i'm just trying to figure it out because i don't want to tear apart my front end and replace everything. the isolators sound like a good idea, except i can feel it in my feet when it makes the noise. it's like right below the clutch, or at least i can feel the vibration from the noise.

my list so far: spring isolators, tie end rods (inner/outer), ball joints, swaybar endlinks. haha, i think that about covers it, yeah?
 
#40
oooo how i wish it had.......
heres the follow up with the solution
no one mentioned the isolators and the end links however there is one more overlooked part to replace the actual sway bar bushings which are also....rubber......


last night i got out to drive after i posted here and the sound was back. first thing i did was look under the car with a flashlight (it was night time) and when i saw the bushings thats when it crossed my mind. the way i tested it was to spray the bushing with wd-40 when i drove out again the noise was gone. problem solved i thought........ :nonono: :bang: :bang:

today.....
dropped my bro off at school and the sound is worse than ever.:mad: when i got home i looked under the car again. the sway bar bushing is in terrible condition, cracked/worn out. i knew i needed new bushings so i went to napa and the local ford dealer. 26.5mm is the size of the sway bar stock bushing on 2001 gt's. napa didnt have them today and the dealer cant get them until monday. so tomorrow morning napa should have them for me.


recap: certain bumps in the road that trigger this knocking on slow turns it knocks/rattles.
1 the isolators were old and decayed
2 the sway bar links were were too large and aged too boot.
stock end links on a lowered car (throws off the geometry also)
3 the sway bar chassis bushings were shot.
:bang:
 
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