Suspension Setup

[txredgt]

So there are many different routes in which to go about doing this so I was hoping to get a sense of what I should do, in what order I should do it in, and how much I can look at spending alltogether. I know that I want the Ford Racing 'C' Springs because I do not want the car too lowered and I want/need MM caster/camber.. Other than that whats the best route? Coilover vs the stock setup and so on..? Thanks everyone!

 

[robmac36067]

keep it simple to start with

do the c springs with new shocks and struts. Caster camber plates may not be needed with the c springs but if you wanna get them it won't hurt to do so. Then get it aligned. From there you can add sub-frame connectors which help a lot as well as upper and lower control arms. Coilovers are personal preference but I think they are a waste of money imo.

 

[crazystang25]

Depends solely on what u want to do with the car. And there is a point when the coilovers will be needed.

 

[txredgt]

The car might see track time later on down the road but for now its a daily driver. I'm looking for a little improvement in handling and launching while not sacrificing too much of the ride quality.

 

[trombonedemon]

I would get some Lower Control arms first, they make the biggest difference w/handling. Then subframes. JMO

 

[TacBear]

You absolutely have to have CC plates with "C" springs!!

I have been in the game for a long time and the progression for SN 95's should be:

SUB FRAME CONNECTORS (First)

Front
"C" springs
CC Plates
ALIGNMENT!!!!!!
Steeda front ball joints

Rear
LCA's
Adjustable Shocks Sruts

If you want a track weapon do a rear panhard bar!

 

[txredgt]

Tac Bear how much do you think that setup would cost? 1000, 1500? I could probably install most of the stuff so that will help keep costs down

 

[crazystang25]

ya i would say around there, it just depends on how much you do yourself. If you do the panhard bar i would do the MM one, as well as some struts for the front. as far as the rear shocks i would do the strange adjustables and probably some 90/10's for the front from lakewood or something like that. for the cc plates i would do the ones from MM.

 

[TacBear]

Sub Frame Connectors----$100.00 KB

Front
"C" springs------$100 FR
CC Plates-------$149.00 KB
ALIGNMENT-----$50.00
Steeda front ball joints--$129.00 Steeda

Rear
LCA's-------$299.00 KB
Adjustable Shocks Sruts--$550.00 Tokico

 

[txredgt]

So here goes a noob question and I hope I don't catch too much crap for it... why only front springs and not rears as well? They only sell them all 4 to a set everywhere I have looked...

 

[Deleted member 38176]

As far as I've heard in the last 10 years, you don't NEED CC plates or any other suspension mods unless you're lowering more than 1.75".

C springs lower only 1.25" and you dont "absolutely need CC plates". I ran C springs on my old 01 GT without any other suspension mods for 6 years with absolutely no problems or additional wear on the tires.

I understand that the OP wants to do the CC plates and so on, so Im just commenting on the "CC plates are absolutely required" comment.

 

[GettinThere]

...I know that I want the Ford Racing 'C' Springs because I do not want the car too lowered...

...I'm looking for a little improvement in handling and launching while not sacrificing too much of the ride quality...

Maybe FRPP B springs would be a good choice? Same drop, rear springs same rate as the C springs, front springs not as harsh as the C springs.

 

[TacBear]

As far as I've heard in the last 10 years, you don't NEED CC plates or any other suspension mods unless you're lowering more than 1.75".

C springs lower only 1.25" and you dont "absolutely need CC plates". I ran C springs on my old 01 GT without any other suspension mods for 6 years with absolutely no problems or additional wear on the tires.

I understand that the OP wants to do the CC plates and so on, so Im just commenting on the "CC plates are absolutely required" comment.

Well I had some BAD inner tire wear after about 2000 miles after the "C" springs....so I got the KB Caster Plus Plates and a realignment, problem solved.

 

[Dark04GT]

C springs max out the stocker's ability to adjust, tech said it was a PITA.

 

[txredgt]

Maybe FRPP B springs would be a good choice? Same drop, rear springs same rate as the C springs, front springs not as harsh as the C springs.

So the difference in the B and C springs is the front spring rate... I can see the numbers 425 vs 650 but what exactly does this mean/do? Stiffer/softer? Wouldn't this also change the overall lowered height? Sorry for the questions but found some B springs near me I could pick up at a lesser than new price. Would it be better to go this route than the original C spring idea?

 

[Dark04GT]

So the difference in the B and C springs is the front spring rate... I can see the numbers 425 vs 650 but what exactly does this mean/do? Stiffer/softer? Wouldn't this also change the overall lowered height? Sorry for the questions but found some B springs near me I could pick up at a lesser than new price. Would it be better to go this route than the original C spring idea?

The B's will be softer than the C's but should still give you the same drop as the C springs. The B's will be slightly stiffer than stock. Neither requires cc plates although cc plates does make it easier.

 

[GettinThere]

So the difference in the B and C springs is the front spring rate... I can see the numbers 425 vs 650 but what exactly does this mean/do? Stiffer/softer? Wouldn't this also change the overall lowered height? Sorry for the questions but found some B springs near me I could pick up at a lesser than new price. Would it be better to go this route than the original C spring idea?

According to the FRPP catalog, the B springs have a progressive rate of 425 to 530, the C springs have a fixed rate of 650, and stock 2002 GT springs have a fixed rate of 450. The B springs will be a little stiffer than stock, and the C springs will be significantly stiffer than stock.

 

[txredgt]

If it were your car and you didnt want it 1.5 inches or lower which set would yall go with? I guess the B's would be better for a DD and give me the same drop.

 

[GettinThere]

If it were your car and you didnt want it 1.5 inches or lower which set would yall go with? I guess the B's would be better for a DD and give me the same drop.

B's are high on my list.

 

[Dark04GT]

If it were your car and you didnt want it 1.5 inches or lower which set would yall go with? I guess the B's would be better for a DD and give me the same drop.

Either one will work fine. I went with the C's because I don't mind the stiffness / wanted the stiffness. The B's are perfect for a DD, especially if you don't want to scrape on every bump. Get a set of B's and call it a day.