SVE Mongoose clutch review!

[302GTS]

Hey guys, I've heard a couple questions about that clutch LRS is selling, called the SVE Mongoose. I bit because of the price, and ordered one for a Christmas. Just had it put in today, and have put around 25 miles on it so far. Everythings good, it feels a good amount grabbier than the FMS HD clutch that was in there before. Engagement is very precise, and the spring back feeling is REALLY strong. It almost shoots my foot towards me on the return motion! The car's been running great all day, and I'm extremely happy with it considering the price (around $160 IIRC).

Now, onto the bad. It DOES chatter a very small amount when going from a stop. However, I have been taking it extremely slow with the pedal just to make sure I don't slip it for the break in (my FWA is set so the pedal grabs VERY high up). My mechanic said the chatter should go away, and it was just there because it's a brand new clutch and a resurfaced flywheel.

So far so good with the clutch, and as of now, I'd recommend it to any bolt-on/daily driven Stang. Gears are going in soon, along with a set of DR's. After I hit up the local 1/8th with those in there, I'll report back to let you guys know how the clutch works with the new goodies.

 

[HISSIN50]

Jeff, disengaging the clutch really slowly is slipping the clutch. You can let it out fairly briskly. It's mainly the WOT runs and high-RPM quick-engagements that you want to omit for a little while.

How close to the top of the pedal is the friction point? If it's pretty close to the top, I'd consider adding more slack into the adjustment. If you have a FWA, put an index mark on it at the top (so you can keep track of your adjustments). Then turn the FWA clockwise (screw it into the firewall). This shortens the effective lenth of the FWA, which puts more slack into your cable.

 

[302GTS]

Jeff, disengaging the clutch really slowly is slipping the clutch. You can let it out fairly briskly. It's mainly the WOT runs and high-RPM quick-engagements that you want to omit for a little while.

How close to the top of the pedal is the friction point? If it's pretty close to the top, I'd consider adding more slack into the adjustment. If you have a FWA, put an index mark on it at the top (so you can keep track of your adjustments). Then turn the FWA clockwise (screw it into the firewall). This shortens the effective lenth of the FWA, which puts more slack into your cable.

When I let it out slowly, I'm using no gas at all, basically letting it get to the point where it's JUST about to stall, then I take my foot out of the clutch and give it some gas, not sitting there riding the clutch.

As for the pedal grabbing, it's literally righttt on top, but I prefer it that way. Shifting gears while driving, my heel is planted to the floor board, and I literally barely tap the pedal and it goes.

 

[HISSIN50]

When I let it out slowly, I'm using no gas at all, basically letting it get to the point where it's JUST about to stall, then I take my foot out of the clutch and give it some gas, not sitting there riding the clutch.

As for the pedal grabbing, it's literally righttt on top, but I prefer it that way. Shifting gears while driving, my heel is planted to the floor board, and I literally barely tap the pedal and it goes.

When the clutch is completely engaged or disengaged is when it's at its best. That transition from disenegaged to engaged (letting the pedal out) is what creates heat, which you want to avoid right now (in excessive amounts). I'd give it a little gas and let the clutch pedal out normally. JMHO.

And for now, I'd still readjust the clutch so you don't take a chance on it slipping while breaking in. If the friction point is right at the top, there's a chance that the clutch is slipping (see what I said in the first paragraph of this post about avoiding heat).

The cable adjustment isn't meant to get the pedal characteristics as one desires. It's meant to get the engagement point optimal. You can do other things to modify the pedal uptake to get it more like you desire.

 

[302GTS]

When the clutch is completely engaged or disengaged is when it's at its best. That transition from disenegaged to engaged (letting the pedal out) is what creates heat, which you want to avoid right now (in excessive amounts). I'd give it a little gas and let the clutch pedal out normally. JMHO.

And for now, I'd still readjust the clutch so you don't take a chance on it slipping while breaking in. If the friction point is right at the top, there's a chance that the clutch is slipping (see what I said in the first paragraph of this post about avoiding heat).

The cable adjustment isn't meant to get the pedal characteristics as one desires. It's meant to get the engagement point optimal. You can do other things to modify the pedal uptake to get it more like you desire.

Understood. I can see how that all would make more sense now, I appreciate it! I've gotta swing by my mechanic's after work tomorrow anyways to pick up some stuff, so I'll have him adjust the cable to lower it a bit.

 

[Adam95GT]

yea... dont feather out the clutch on a break in... i just drive my car like i normally would... just no track time and wot runs...

 

[revhead347]

yea... dont feather out the clutch on a break in... i just drive my car like i normally would... just no track time and wot runs...

Pretty much right on on how a clutch should be broken in. They actually don't take that long to break in.

Kurt

 

[LRSjmac]

Glad you like the clutch! I put one in my 95 a couple of months ago & had a very small amount of chatter when I had the engagement set at the top of the pedal. I now have engagement set on the top side of mid-pedal travel & couldn't be happier. Still powershifts well too!

 

[302GTS]

Glad you like the clutch! I put one in my 95 a couple of months ago & had a very small amount of chatter when I had the engagement set at the top of the pedal. I now have engagement set on the top side of mid-pedal travel & couldn't be happier. Still powershifts well too!

I've kept it at the top of the pedal, and the chatter is almost gone TBH when leaving a stop in 1st. Kind of hard to avoid it in reverse though, but it doesn't bug me. The clutch is running great, has close to 200 miles on it so far of 99% city driving. Easy engagement, and it grabs on really hard! I love it, and can't wait to see how it handles at the track on some radials.

 

[5.0_GT_kid]

Sorry to bump an older thread, but I was curious how this clutch stacks up to the King Cobra.

 

[302GTS]

I had the King Cobra in my car before this one and I reallllly prefer the Mongoose. Engagement is much more precise IMO, and the pedal is lighter than the Valeo KC I had in there before (I'm running a MM cable/Steeda quad). Haven't taken it to the track yet, as I have no reason to since I have no other mods since my last trip to the track, but on the street this clutch has been great so far.

 

[richlaw83]

SVE Mongoose Clutch

Just wanted to put the word out on this clutch a little further. I installed this clutch with out resurfacing my flywheel. (looked perfect and free of any hotspots). After clutch install, Petal release was very high. (Maybe something I did while install with the cable). After pulling back on petal for quadrant to self adjust petal was fine. Clutch does seem to have a bit of chatter while break in which seems to be going away more all the time. clutch as a very similar petal to stock Valeo clutch. lots of grab. smooth engagement. I am very satisfied with it. handles fast shifts and power shifts very very well and seems to have a lot heavier spring back. Give it a shot, great clutch for the money.