swap 289 for 302 in 66 mustang automatic

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by d58225, Jul 3, 2011.

  1. I need some help. I'm not sure how to swap a 289 engine for a 302 engine that is currently in my 1966 mustang with automatic transmission. I am concerned with damaging the transmission (torque converter). I was told to remove the starter then by turning the flywheel, remove the 4 bolts located on the flywheel before removing the engine. Also I was cautioned to take care when replacing the engine so that the torque converter is in place or the converter and pump could be damaged? Are there any hints, suggestions, that could help me?
  2. Very good advice. If the torque converter is not fully seated on the internal spline shafts, you can damage the transmission.
  3. Is this an earler 302 or is this a 5.0 version with the 1-piece rear seal? You have to address the proper weight on the flexplate and balancer. There is also a difference in 3 blt vs 4 bolt front pulleys/balancers.
  4. reinstalling the 289 engine

    I am having trouble installing the 289 engine. I cannot get the flywheel to line up with the converter in order to complete the engine swap. Is there any advise in doing this? Please Help. Are the flywheels in the 302 and 289 the same? Thank you.
  5. You could get some long bolts that go from the bellhousing to the engine and use them as line up pins. Its a trick my dad used to replace a flexplate on an engine, so it might help.
  6. If you are having that hard of a time, you might be better off to just pull the trans, bolt it up to the engine outside the car, then drop them in as one unit.
  7. I have a couple of bolts with the heads cut off and a screwdriver slot cut in the tip for that.
  8. Different flywheels?

    I tried the longer bolt trick to line up the transmission and engine and it worked great. Thank you. However, the stubs on the torque converter and the holes for them to go through on the flywheel still don't line up? Should I have swapped the flywheel off the 302 that I pulled out with the flywheel on the 289 that I am trying to put in? The flywheel on the 302 that I pulled worked on the C4 transmission that is in the car. I didn't know that there might be a difference so I did not check/compare the two flywheels before the swap.
  9. flywheel on 289 vs 302

    I pulled the 289 and compared the flywheels (289/302) they were different. The bolt pattern was the same on the flywheels (flywheel to crank) so I swapped the flywheels, re-installed the 289, using the recommended longer bolt installation trick (to align engine to transmission). The flywheel and the torque converter lined up and I completed installation of the 289 to the C4 transmission.
  10. flywheel on 302 vs 289 C4 transmission

    I thought I already posted this but I did not see it. I compared the flywheel on the 302 vs the 289 (both had C4 transmissions) and they WERE different. I swapped the flywheels since the bolt patterns matched. I reinstalled the 289 and the flywheel matched the correct pattern for the torque converters bolts.
  11. The converter hole pattern should have been the same either way. However, there were 157T wheels and 164T wheels, and likely that's what you were dealing with. The older pre-80's 302 had the same imbalance as the 289, so you should be fine.
  12. Hi,

    I'll offer this....
    I've used a small jack w/block beneath the engine pan to both support the engine and micro adjust it's relationship to the tranny bell. Many times, the engine needs just a hair movement one way or another to allow them to mate. The previous comment about the alignment bolts is a good too.
    It'll go, just take your time. Did you insure the converter is wholly on it's second step of the output shaft?
    Good Luck!
  13. transmission dip stick leaking transmission fluid.

    I got the engine in and put everything back on it. It runs fine! Thank you everyone for all your help. However, the transmission dip stick is leaking transmission fluid. The dip stick is not the push-in kind. There is a 3/4 inch bolt on the side of the transmission pan where the tube enters the transmission. I tried to loosen the bolt but it is very tight and I don't want to shear it off the transmission pan. The dip stick tube seems to be cracked. Where can I get a new dip stick tube? What is the best way to loosen the nut?
  14. Hi,
    The bolt issue is iffy. You're dealing with a steel bolt in an aluminum housing. As you may know, these two metals don't play nice. You might get lucky once the transmission has heated and the case starts to expand a bit. Retry using little more torque.
    In the mean time, if can gain access to the crack, clean the area really well and apply JB weld to the area. The cleaner you can get the area, the greater your success. If at some point you can get the tube out, brazing the wound should fix it for good.
    Good Luck!