Progress Thread Swiss Cheese - 1965 Fastback Build Thread

Discussion in '1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-' started by 82merc, Apr 10, 2014.

  1. I've been looking around for a good place to post progress and get some much needed info for this build. Looks like this is the right place!

    The car is a 1965 Fastback, 289 C4, not many options. Came from my great aunt in Long Island where it sat, rotting, for many years. My cousins and I started stripping it down last fall. We got it down to the bare frame in January, and sent it out for media blasting last week. We just picked it up yesterday, so the real work can begin.

    It's going to be slow going as we're all in University and have jobs, but progress should hopefully be steady at least!

    Here's how it was delivered:
    And at home in the garage
  2. We got to work, building the workspace. We needed to build walls, it was too depressing and dark in there
    12' sliding door
    We painted the room and had some wall mounted lights installed, it made a huge difference and really made it nice to work in there. We got started tearing the car apart pretty quickly. The signs of serious rust were everywhere
  3. Continuing the disassembly
    I pulled a valve cover and the engine is shockingly clean inside... I'm thinking the engine was actually rebuilt sometime close to when the car was stored
    Things weren't looking too great... this is the passenger shock tower. Cracked and patched by a crackhead
  4. This brings us to the past couple of weeks, and the reason for the thread's title. I have a few questions too... Is there anywhere I can get full dimensions for the chassis? I've seen a basic diagram, but nothing more. As for quality of parts, is it just safer to go with Dynacorn for everything? Are their parts reliable, like the fully pre-welded front frame rail/shock tower assembly? I'm thinking CJ Pony Parts will be supplying parts as they have free Canadian shipping every once in a while.

    Loading the car up, taking it to the blaster

    And here's how she looks now. As you'll see, it needs full floors, rear rails, whole trunk, quarters, lower firewall, inner cowl, drip rails, front rails and shock towers, radiator panel and crossmember, rear fenderwells, and that's just the inner structure. I'm debating on where to start with this car.
    Drivers side
    Passenger side
    That crackhead patch again. Not to mention, the tower is cracked in multiple places
    The roof is good, with minor pinholes toward the front right

    So there it is, swiss cheese.
  5. Dynacorn sheet metal is the best best ,You may have to go with the complete floor structure . I am afraid with that much rot the inner frame rails and rockers will be rusty inside . The complete front frame rails ,towers and aprons is very nice ,however the aprons are one piece instead of two piece as the original were .I split them at the top of the fender shelf over the spring towers where they are supposed to be and add the over lap so they look correct. The radiator support with the cross member already attached is the best way to go . The wheel tubs come as two piece or full tub,full tub is what i would recommend . the door jamb at the latch area is going to be a bit of a problem as that piece is not offered . I have several 67 full striker plates left and right hand ,that whole face were the striker bolts ,they would have to be modified for the striker and the quarter skin but that would not be to big a deal. The roof ,if not to rusty could be patched ,the new roof skins are very nice.
    The lower rear window panel is a pretty good piece although the step where the window sets is not square ,it is kind of tapered into the channel but the glass still fits fine . The rear quarters are very nice and i would probably do both sides . The rain gutter is available and fits very well. The smaller areas you will just have to make patches.
  6. Thanks for the reply! It's good to hear that Dynacorn is reliable. I haven't decided yet if I'm going to replace the rockers. Other than some localized damage toward the rear wheel well, the insides are pretty rust-free.
    The frame rails are another story. The left rear rail had been very poorly repaired. The last 9 inches or so were just boxed plate with a shackle bushing welded in. This box section was welded to other plates that were welded onto the rotted trunk floor, and also welded to the tail panel. It wasn't even welded to the original rotted frame rail. Needless to say, the rear rails will be replaced.
    Front rails will be replaced, along with the aprons as an assembly. It's good to know that they're not constructed as original, but it's not much of a concern for me as this is something of a freestyle restoration.
    The main debate in my head is whether I should just go for the entire assembly for 2500$, or do the repair work section by section and keep some of the original metal in there. I think it'll be less work and cheaper in the long run to just buy the assembly, and might be worth it.

    I intend to fab up some tight fitting subframe connectors that will looks factory, and include outriggers to the rockers. I also want to fab some front torque boxes and triangulate the firewall to the fender aprons. I'm not a big fan of the Monte Carlo bar and export braces so hopefully I'll be able to get similar rigidity by doing this, without cluttering the engine bay. Just some ideas going through my head.
  7. I did a full floor all the way to the back with frame rails ,not the welded floor though.I welded it my self .It was a lot cheaper to do it this way but you need something to measure from because it is a lot of panels and getting the measurements off could be easy to do. It was pretty simple with the measurements from another car ,you just have to make sure it is welded together level and square
  8. Level and square. That says it all!
  9. With regards to fitting sections piece by piece, is this diagram reliable enough to go from? I definitely don't have access to a car for measurements, and I don't trust my car. It looks like enough critical dimensions to go off of, but I don't like the fact that the floor is the datum. I don't have a perfectly flat, level surface to go on. Seems like the bottom of the rails would be easier as they are supposed to be on the same plane. catresto2blue020003.jpg
    #10 82merc, Apr 14, 2014
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2014
  10. Link doesn't work ,but if you follow the dimensions i can't see why it wouldn't
  11. Every thing attaches off of the floor ,as it came down the assembly line it started off as a floor and frame rails and built up from there.
  13. Just purchased a dynacorn driver's side full frame rail assembly (with aprons) from Cj pony and I am really pleased with the way it looks and the structural integrity it has. I'm only replacing the one side because the pass. side rail is only rusted near the radiator support... Just be sure those measurments are accurate... I got one of the reprinted original shop manuals for my '67 and it has all of the structural dimensions down to a hundredth of an inch. If the '65 version is the same as the '67, this is the one i'd recommend for you: My experience with Cj pony has been excellent so far and would recommend them also.
  14. Thanks for the responses, guys. I'm not planning on giving up on this thing! My uncle is funding this project, and my cousins and I are doing the work. We have to analyse the costs, and come up with some numbers for him, so as long as he's cool with it then we're cool with it.
    With the fact that Dynacorn is reproducing the entire floor section of this car, along with the front rails and aprons, we would have a clean 65 Fastback body shell for about 5-6k plus consumables. We already have a welder, a good work space, a car that was essentially free, and a few people willing to work.
    Sometimes I look at that car and think "what the hell am I getting in to?", but other times is makes sense, and I'm excited to get to work on it.
    Anyone can go and buy a clean shell, or a restored car. That's not what I'm into, and that pretty much defeats the purpose of owning any vintage car in my opinion. I would rather build this one to my liking, and be proud of it than have to strip someone else's half assed project!

    That being said, it's all about the money, so after my exams are over I'll be posting more progress, and hopefully a game plan for the car.

    Thanks for the structural dimensions, good to know!
  15. Looking forward to seeing the progress. You have the right attitude and there's something to be said for doing it your own way. Good luck!! (Post pics as you go):nice:
  16. That driver's b pillar door area would concern me alot.
  17. How does the b-pillar on the coupe/convertibles differ from the fastbacks? I see that the fastback panels aren't available.
  18. The only difference is the hole for the quarter window and that can be patched ,i do it when i do a conversion ,coupe to fast back. The coupe part is available
  19. Well, I came up with a plan. The car will be done in "stages".
    Stage 1 will be fixing all of the minor rust areas on the inner structure that attach to the main floor sections. Fender wells, inner cowl panel, kick panel areas, trunk surround, rear scuttle areas, outer rockers, and any miscellaneous patches will be fabricated and welded in.
    Stage , the body will be rigidly braced, and the entire will be replaced with the Dynacorn assembly. This will be followed by removal and replacement of the front rails/aprons (I'm expecting this stage to take longest).
    Stage 3 will be replacement of quarter panels, tail panel, b-pillars, and roof/wind shield channels. The more aesthetic part. Once this is all done, we will brace the floor (through-floor subframe connectors, front torque boxes, outriggers).

    I walked around the car, marking areas that will need to be removed/replaced for stage 1:

    Kick Panels

    Inner Fenders/Rockers:

    Trunk Area:

    It looks much less daunting when divided into stages. I like the systematic approach.

    Side note, what is the name of the brace that goes in between the bottom of the rear glass, and the front of the trunk? I need to replace the full brace that fits underneath, but I don't know what it's called.