T-45 Question

Discussion in 'SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech' started by 87Sleepr, May 28, 2014.

  1. I just recently bought myself a 99 GT and have started to get her out and playing around and I have some questions on how it should shift. This is my first Mustang.

    So under normal driving it shifts fine, the RPMs tend to hang where ever i disengage the clutch for a second then slowly drop. Now when im sitting at a light and put it in gear and i suppose to feel a slight engagement in the rear end?

    Now the concerning stuff. When i get into it and get it towards redline, sometimes i can shift into second just fine, sometimes its scrubs like HELL. same situtation with 2nd to 3rd. not all the time either. Also scrubs at times down shifting.

    Would a bad place to start looking be the clutch cable?
  2. Is the Tranny raking gears when you shift? Is it hard going into gear under various driving conditions? You many need to adjust the clutch, or the cable may be getting bad. Do you have a Firewall adjuster on it? What are your Mods? If your clutch cable and adjustment is good, the raking could be sycros in the transmission. The RPM hanging could be anything.. You need to trouble shoot it a little and then get back with us... Then we can work in the RPM hanging...

  3. I currently have:
    Sway bars, 410 gears, short shifter, off road H-pipe, aftermarket intake, and diablo programmed.

    Under normal driving it shifts totally fine from what I feel. No raking and noise during shifting. I will check the firewall
    for an adjuster. Its a 50/50 chance its rakes when im really getting into it. I figured id throw in the RPM thing just incase.
  4. Check your cable, and firewall adjuster if you have one. IF all that is good then you are looking at syncros and sliders. When you push them hard is when you will feel the pain of rake. You should get a good stage II rebuild. Also, how old is your clutch and what kind do you have? If you have to rebuild the tranny, you should do a clutch. Use a "FORD" throw out bearing, and pilot bushing ONLY. The pain with that other junk is just not worth it to just save a few bucks.
  5. Did some more troubleshooting.

    Found there is NO firewall adjustment kit and seems to be the stock cable, its gray and somewhat thick.

    it made an odd vibration/humming noise when I was in 4th at regular speed when I pushed the clutch in and reved it. Have not be able to reproduce this.

    Now ive noticed sittin in neutral there is a rotational scrubbing noise coming from the transmission area. This goes away when I push the clutch in. The sounds is like taking scotch Brite on a peice of metal.
  6. Without Hearing It, It Sounds Like AThrow Out Bearing Going OuT .
  7. Id attached the auto file if I knew how. Its very quiet. I will say that.
  8. YesAThrow Out Bearing If Its Touching The Flywheel Will MakeALittle Noise.. Sounds Like ASlight Metallic Rubbing... And Goes Away When You Depress TheClutch Just A Little.
  9. Yep thats pretty much on point. I'm currently looking into an Exedy stage 2 with a light weight flywheel. Plus the bearing and all that jazz plus doing the tranny fluid. Oh well, hard to drive the car wothout a way to get the power to the ground I guess. I will have to baby it until I get the extra saved up.
  10. IMeant To Say Disk NotFly Wheel
  11. If YouWant A Stock Like Feel And High Performance You My Want To Look At A Center Force Dual Friction Clutch.. Some Of The Performance Clutches Have A Heavy Feel, But Not The Cfdf
  12. These cars are absolutely notorious for the weak TOB, mine currently makes some noise. FRPP makes a HD TOB that will last a long time without making the annoying noises. I had an 01 Cobra with a King Cobra clutch/FRPP TOB and it was a dream compared to the factory parts I'm running in my 00' GT. Stay away from the provided TOB's in these clutch kits, and stay away from the factory replacement piece. It's one hell of a job to replace the TOB especially since it's a very cheap part, so I'll be driving mine until it's time for a new clutch.
  13. +1 on the centerforce clutch for a good feel and upgrade, but really IMO the stock clutch with your upgrades will be more than enough. As stated before make sure and use a FRPP TOB, and try to get away with the stock quadrant and a OEM cable.
  14. OP, how much free play do you have in the clutch pedal?

    You can actually adjust the pedal play by pulling up on the pedal until it stops. It may require some force to go beyond the normal "up" position. Get your foot underneath the pedal and pull up on it, hard. That will allow the adjuster to set itself.

    See if that helps with your "raking."
  15. I will second the point that there is no reason to drop the trans just to replace the TOB. It is an annoyance, but you can keep driving it like that until something else comes up... like clutch replacement. And yes, the ford racing TOB is far superior to other aftermarket TOBs. I used the TOB included with my Ram clutch and it didn't even make it 25k miles before making noise.

    Also, the shifting issue may be related to worn syncros. Syncros help you get the transmission into the next gear and high rpms and quick shifts make them work harder. Higher mileage tends to wear them, as well as aggressive shifts. Again, you can keep driving it, but will have that annoyance when you are having fun. Syncro replacement requires the whole transmission to be disassembled, so unless you are getting the whole trans rebuilt, it isn't worth it to just replace syncros.
    #15 bhuff30, Jul 2, 2014
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2014