T-5 Input Shaft Bearing Removal Help

[bighoss88lx]

The input shaft bearing in my T-5 went south on me last week and I need to know what it takes to get the old one out and what else I should replace with it? Is there a race or anything like that? Any help will be great, need to get this finished soon. Thanx.

 

[Mustang5L5]

To remove it, take out the 4 bolts on the input shaft retainer and slide it off while holding the input shaft in place. Make a note to which side is up on the retainer. There are severl gooves on the inside for oil pasage. The wider groove goes on the bottom

There will be a few shims and a bearing race so put them aside. The shims go inside the retainer and then the race goes in.

The input shaft will be loose, but don't pull it out yet. What you want to do is tilt the trans forward so the input shaft is down. Rotate the shaft til the cutout is inline with the countergear and pull the shaft out. There are 15 roller bearings inside the snout and you don't want these to fall down inside the tranny otherwise you will need to pull the tailhousing and top plate off. Also make sure you don't drp the black 4th gear blocker ring inside.

With the input shaft out, take out the bearings and any thrust washers and set them aside.

To take the bearing off, you can either use a 3-jar puller or a press and pull it off. Then either use a press to push it or get a pipe that will fit on the bearing and bang it on that way. It's a bit more "redneck" but works if you have no access.

Reassembly is the opposite. To hold the bearings in place, pack them with petroleum jelly and set them in place. Install blocker ring and shims and put the input shaft back in. Then slide on the race and the front shims and bolt the retainer back up.

Sounds complex but it's easy to do.

What makes you think your input bearing went bad anyway??

 

[bighoss88lx]

Thanks for the info.

I took the tailshaft and the main housing cover off to see why the tranny started making a horrible grinding sound. I saw the input shaft bearing was missing 2 or 3 of the roller bearings and the rest were all chewed up. The rest of the transmission looks good tho, so I just wanna replace the bearing that is bad.

 

[Mustang5L5]

check the mainshaft under the bearings. If that's chewed up you'll need a new mainshaft.

Reason these bearings get chewed up is often lack of lubrication due to low fluid level

 

[bighoss88lx]

check the mainshaft under the bearings. If that's chewed up you'll need a new mainshaft.

Reason these bearings get chewed up is often lack of lubrication due to low fluid level

Yup, the tranny had only 1/2 quart of fluid in it. I will check the mainshaft also. The puller your refering to is an inside 3-Jaw puller correct?

 

[Mustang5L5]

Yup. one of these

View attachment 521955

 

[bighoss88lx]

Ok, thats what I thought. Thanks for the help.

 

[jrichker]

See http://www.ttcautomotive.com/English/onlineorder/product.asp to download a FREE service manual for T5 or Tremec 3550
You will need the Adobe Acrobat viewer which is also a free download – http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html

See http://www.hanlonmotorsports.com/ or http://www.ddperformance.com/index2.htm for parts

A T5 rebuild kit with syncros, bearings and other small parts costs about $160. It does not include any gears or shafts.

http://cartapes.com also has a video on how to rebuild your T5 or Tremec. It costs less than $20, and is worth every penny of it.

You will also need a magnetic base and dial indicator to measure the endplay ($20-$40). See http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=1290&PARTPG=NNLMK32

The tricky part is that you will need some shims to adjust the endplay in the two shafts: the new bearings will change the clearance. There is no way of telling what it will be until you get to the point that it is time to measure and check the clearances. Halon has the individual shims if you can wait for them. If you can't afford the wait, the auto parts store can sell you some shim stock and you can make your own, or have a machine shop make them for you. The shim stock comes in brass (easy to cut) and steel, in varying thicknesses. That's where the dial indicator & base come in - there is no way to get the clearance right without it.