T-top questions

StangYellow

Founding Member
Sep 11, 2002
1,052
1
39
I know verts have frame bracing, but do factory t-top cars have the same bracing? Also, is it possible to have custom t-tops made from a hardtop car (85GT) and not have the roof panels flex under torque? I know the easiest thing to do is find a car with t-tops but I want to find a shop that will chop up the roof and somehow make t-tops.
 
  • Sponsors (?)


i doubt it..i knew a guy who put Ts in his 87, even with a 6 point and subframes, when he launched you could see the sheetmetal behind the T ripple from the torque. He also said they leaked because the torque flex prevented a decent seal. In the end he either ended up replacing the entire roof or selling the car, not sure cause i havent talked to him in over a year. I'd stick with a stock roof if you're going racing.
 
They are tubbed I had a 85 gt with factory T tops loved them but they do leak and you just need new seals not cheap www.50resto.com but the factory are reinforced on the inside In the Middle With leftover material , take a stock one apart and you will see ...have you ever seen a sunroof on a stock car and if you look it is "molded" like a cookie cutter same wiht the t tops. IT IS NOT WORTH IT TO DO A AFTERMARKET BE CAUSE A:they leak B:They Leak : c: They leak .....if you want to replace carpet and invest into poxy glue and seals and grtting dripped on from the rain running down your seat belt to your body and leaking all the time. then go for it. If you are a weekend warrior only then maybe it would be worth it to have them off. Quite frankliy do a targa top. Do it Right and you will not have any leaky leak. :rolleyes:
 
85_SS_302_Coupe said:
i doubt it..i knew a guy who put Ts in his 87, even with a 6 point and subframes, when he launched you could see the sheetmetal behind the T ripple from the torque. He also said they leaked because the torque flex prevented a decent seal. In the end he either ended up replacing the entire roof or selling the car, not sure cause i havent talked to him in over a year. I'd stick with a stock roof if you're going racing.

If the chassis is reinforced properly this is not an issue. I have an 8 pt cage and strong custom built subframe connectors and there is no flex. It's easy to spot if they do because you'll get permenant ripples behind the quarter glass or on the roof.
 
all the bracing is this
ef_1.JPG

I am building up my t-top coupe now and I am not worried about any of these complaints. Lets see t-top cars were made up till 1988, so how old is the weather stripping??? like 15 + years depending on what car you have. Of course its going to be deteriorated and brittle which would lead to leaking. The same happens to our hatches doors. Unless you take the time and money to fix it and replace seals it will leak so either buy a solid roof car or buy the new stripping. and its not that bad I have seen a whole kit for 199.99
 

Attachments

  • ef_1.JPG
    ef_1.JPG
    1.3 KB · Views: 87
BOWTIEKILLER said:
all the bracing is this
ef_1.JPG

I am building up my t-top coupe now and I am not worried about any of these complaints. Lets see t-top cars were made up till 1988, so how old is the weather stripping??? like 15 + years depending on what car you have. Of course its going to be deteriorated and brittle which would lead to leaking. The same happens to our hatches doors. Unless you take the time and money to fix it and replace seals it will leak so either buy a solid roof car or buy the new stripping. and its not that bad I have seen a whole kit for 199.99

I had t tops installed in my 79 Capri in 1981 when I bought it. Still have it, same gaskets.

Best thing I ever did for the car, I love them!!!!!!

Yes they leak, at the 3 way joint at the top of the windows front and rear, and a bit at the bottom rear of the window. I fixed it a long time ago with some added black rtv build up behind the glass. Just put rtv on the weatherstrip and tape a piece of wax paper on the glass, and close the door. Let it sit over night and you will have a much better seal. Do this before you put much Armorall stuff on the gasket or the rtv won't stick. Replacement gaskets are available, and I will get some someday. If I am in a major rain storm, I make sure to carefully roll the windows up to meet the weatherstrip, and it cures the leaks till you open the door. What happens is the window guide strips that center the glass on the rod in the door wear out, and the glass can get cocked a bit when you close it, leaving a bigger gap at one end or the other. Sometimes rolling the window up with the door open and closing it will get it to seal evenly.

Mine were an aftermarket install of the C and C kit, same as the oem parts, done in late 1981. They are not made anymore, but www.sunroofdoctor.com bought the remaining parts and can provide nearly all the trim stuff.

A conversion could easily be done using a donor car, but you need all the stuff, the new door window glass, etc, trim for the rearview mirrors, top reinforcing panel, etc. I think it all installs with 1/4 pop rivets, so you need the big rivet gun. Some judicious siliconing will seal the rear roof panel to the trim.

Mine has 265000 miles and about a hundred launches on it, with subframes, and has no ill effects.

Still the best feature of the car and my wife and I still use it often, for "t-top Sundays."
 

Attachments

  • ef_1.JPG
    ef_1.JPG
    1.3 KB · Views: 106