T5 Speedo Drive Gear How-to?

WhiteCobra95

Mod Dude
May 2, 2006
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I'm finally going to switch over to 3.55's. I ordered the proper speedo gears from the Ford dealer based on the chart from the FR catelog. I have read through the Ford shop manual and the process seems relatively straight forward, but I was wondering if there are any "real-world" how-to's for this process. Please post a link if you know of any. Thanks
 
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It's as simple as it sounds. I don't know of any write-ups however. The drive gear probably will not wanna slide off the output shaft very easily.

Good luck.
 
Does the new gear have 23 teeth? As noted, replacement is as simple as removing a retaining bolt and pulling the VSS from the transmission. Disconnect the electrical connector from the VSS first.
 
Hissen50: Thanks for the message. I wanted to hear from someone who's already done the job just in case there's something I'm not already anticipating, so that helps a lot.

Toyman: I'm referring to the drive gear on the trans output shaft. I'm switching from the 8 to 7 tooth drive gear. I will change the driven gear on the VSS afterward, but that part of the process is much simpler. The 7 tooth drive gear requires a 20 tooth driven gear. I beleive that the 23 tooth gear which a lot of places sell is a hack fix to pair up 3.55's with the stock 8 tooth drive gear. The tooth count/driven gear diameter is not coorect for the 8 tooth drive gear. From what I've read here, some people get away with the 23 tooth driven gear and other have had serious isues (teeth shearing, bad fit,...). That's why I'm going to take off the tailshaft housing and swap drive gears.
 
Your thinking is spot-on.

Are you pulling the trans or are you going to try to just pull the tailshaft with the trans in the car?
 
Hissen50: Thanks for the message. I wanted to hear from someone who's already done the job just in case there's something I'm not already anticipating, so that helps a lot.

Toyman: I'm referring to the drive gear on the trans output shaft. I'm switching from the 8 to 7 tooth drive gear. I will change the driven gear on the VSS afterward, but that part of the process is much simpler. The 7 tooth drive gear requires a 20 tooth driven gear. I beleive that the 23 tooth gear which a lot of places sell is a hack fix to pair up 3.55's with the stock 8 tooth drive gear. The tooth count/driven gear diameter is not coorect for the 8 tooth drive gear. From what I've read here, some people get away with the 23 tooth driven gear and other have had serious isues (teeth shearing, bad fit,...). That's why I'm going to take off the tailshaft housing and swap drive gears.

My bad. My mind was somewhere else.
 
I'm going to try and do it from underneather the car. I'm not sure if that's a good idea or not. My biggest concern is getting the tailshaft housing to sealed back up properly. If it gets ugly, I'll just pull out the trans and do it on the workbench, but I'm hoping to avoid that.
 
You'll at least probably need a helper to fit the shift block (and remove it) while the tail is being pulled off. You have to start the block as the tail goes on, and then get the roll-pin hole aligned before the tail seats.

I'd be prepared to pull the trans and if you can do it without pulling it, great. If not, you were ready to do it.
 
Thanks a million for the tips. It's always good to talk to someone who's already had this sort of fun. :)

I might have to take some photoes and do a write up on the process.
 
Question for you guys... I have a 1995 GT with 3.73 gears and am trying to correct the speedo. Now does my T5 have 6Tooth, 7tooth, or 8tooth? According to that link http://pomoforacing.com/tech/T5Rebuild2002.pdf it would be 8tooth (correct?) but it looks like there is no gear correction for that transmission...:shrug:

That would be correct. However, there is an fully adjustable electronic fix (Speedcal) from Dallas Mustang I believe.
 
You'll at least probably need a helper to fit the shift block (and remove it) while the tail is being pulled off. You have to start the block as the tail goes on, and then get the roll-pin hole aligned before the tail seats.

I'd be prepared to pull the trans and if you can do it without pulling it, great. If not, you were ready to do it.

I have done this swap with the trans still in the car. Getting the roll pin on the shifter block was the only tricky part. The rest was pretty easy.