Talked to AMP PERF... what do you think of their recomendation?

hotstang_46

Member
Apr 11, 2007
481
4
18
Charlotte NC
I just got smoked by an older gentleman in a betley gt last night and that's not cool....especially with the way my car sounds....

I just finished with the work listed below in my sig.

I just called www.bieberfever.com in AZ and they recommended the following.....(A Performance Automatic tranny(good for 450hp) with a PTC 2500 HD stall....along with 4.10 rear gears and a Dyno tune with my sniper software(which i need anyways as I don't feel my car is only running perfect since the mods)...

I'm looking to build a quick RELIABLE street car with enough performance to hold it's own against all the astons, bentleys, and such driving around out here.....I want to do it right the first time and have the ability to expand to more HP later should I want to. I know a new tranny is critical to the cars performance and reliabilty, I feel the stock tranny is garbage and a major weak link....even with the jmod it wanders, and just doesn't act like some well sorted cars that I've owned/own...

I take all of your guys words for gospel here, I've done all my mods so far based almost entirely on the info found here....It would be great to get some input on both the mods recommended and the shop I'm thiking about doing the install at...

Bottom line, will I get a noticeable difference in performance for the thousands I'm about to lay out? I've never run my car at the track, when I do, with work at my own driving skills, what will the car be capable of? THANKS!!!:SNSign:
 
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I just got smoked by an older gentleman in a betley gt last night and that's not cool....especially with the way my car sounds....

I just finished with the work listed below in my sig.

I just called www.bieberfever.com in AZ and they recommended the following.....(A Performance Automatic tranny(good for 450hp) with a PTC 2500 HD stall....along with 4.10 rear gears and a Dyno tune with my sniper software(which i need anyways as I don't feel my car is only running perfect since the mods)...

I'm looking to build a quick RELIABLE street car with enough performance to hold it's own against all the astons, bentleys, and such driving around out here.....I want to do it right the first time and have the ability to expand to more HP later should I want to. I know a new tranny is critical to the cars performance and reliabilty, I feel the stock tranny is garbage and a major weak link....even with the jmod it wanders, and just doesn't act like some well sorted cars that I've owned/own...

I take all of your guys words for gospel here, I've done all my mods so far based almost entirely on the info found here....It would be great to get some input on both the mods recommended and the shop I'm thiking about doing the install at...

Bottom line, will I get a noticeable difference in performance for the thousands I'm about to lay out? I've never run my car at the track, when I do, with work at my own driving skills, what will the car be capable of? THANKS!!!:SNSign:

thousands? grab yourself a KB supercharger. theyre excellent for street applications. you can make serious HP with them, especially with your mods

this is the F/I route. or do you wantto stay N/A?
 
you dont need a new tranny unless the actual housing of the tranny is cracked or you need to run into the low 11's/10's. I'd be willing to put my tranny up against one of more than twice the price any day of the week. Just find out what kind of set-up your going to be ending up running in the future and build accordingly, or do i like did and just go balls out w/ hardened parts and performance kits. If you find a respectable shop that does 4R's in their sleep and you take the tranny out of your car and deliver it to their bench it's really not expensive at all. In fact the place i went to was happy to talk to me about what kind of performance/shifts i wanted and actually enjoyed building something that was built to go fast that they threw in a new valve body that they reworked to Jmod and line pressure specs for free. As for stall if you dont plan on running cams 3200-3400 is fine. If you plan on a built engine or blown i'd recommend 3600-3800 for sure.
 
Why are you worried about getting blown away by a 600hp Bentley:shrug:

Because there's about as many running around out here as honda civics back home where I came from in chicago...... And practically everyone I pull up against wants to test out the stang.

Here, it's like this.......I will surely end up doing some sort of F/I or nitrous...I haven't even begun investigating yet....... The tranny is next on the list and I have made up my mind... the stockers performance as it sits right now is just not acceptable to me....The reason I say I'd like to go new is because when talking to AMP, they won't crack open the stocker. Mike over there told me even if they did, it would only cost 5-800 more for a nicely built aftermarket one with a good warranty....he stated it would cost about 1500 for a competent shop to crack her open and do it right ( he offerred me refferals if I wanted them)...However he could set me up with the new one mentioned above, a tourque convertor, and install OTD at right around 3200 (obv not including the gears, dyno etc)....I should also say I've never had any transmission work done to a car before, in fact the whole subject and the way the parts work are still confusing to me. Bottom line is this, if it is a good tranny, and a very reputable shop, which they seem to be (maybe i'll get some opinions on here) then I think it could be money well spent. I should also say I questioned him about why he recomended a 2500 stall...I first told him I know next to nothing, but had said most of the guys on the forum I belong to were running around 3500. He said he was surprised at that and went off into an explanation that I don't understand...about how I'd be paying more for some 9 in something or another...to be honest i didn't understand, and still don't:shrug:(i've started searching today and am trying to educat myself)

again, I'd just like some opinions on the questions I had in the first post..... I'm far from having my mind made up so I'm open to suggestions and input.... But again...tranny needs to be done now....then after that more suspension, and then probably the FI/ nitrous, new lower end...whatever..
 
think he's saying if you want over like a 3000 stall you need to get a smaller TC rather than a rebuilt stock TC. Saying your going to pay more for a smaller one is obvious cuz all of the good TC's are smaller than the 11..." and what ever the stock is. My 3200 is 10.5" or so, most tripple discs are 9.5 and most that stall over 3600 are in the 9"s But you dont want a huge stock sized one spinning in 3400 stall conditions, so he's recommending a 2500 stall which wont do anything for a cammed GT IMO you'd be better off sticking w/ a cheap stock one to save money if your going to go 2500
 
my auto lived until i took it out. It stood up to around 380 at the wheels for about a year and a half. swapped to tko

If you are just wanting to hold your own against street cars, get the motor up to around 400 and start saving for a shortblock for later. Do lots of weight reduction.
honestly i would leave the transmission alone unless you have plenty of cash. Unless it it really giving you issues and it has been taken care of i think it would hold up. Get ahold of a nitrous system for 5 hundred and that would help you out alot. if you wanna spend some money get a Kenne bell or a novi 2000.
 
I have enough money to cover whatever I'm looking to do....I'm not into to spending money just to spend money though....

I really do hate the stocker, besides I think it is already starting to go because of all the wandering and apparent slipping it does...but that's all beside the point... the car will be upgraded beyond what the stocker will take, and I don't think in any circumstance my current stock tranny would be used in building a "reliable" stang with non stock hp numbers....the transmission is just something I don't want to worry about down the road.... I will not leave it in while doing all the future engine mods and wait for it fail....that would be inconvenient and I'd rather do the tranny work now on my terms while the car is currently running


I guess i should be asking if there is any benefit to going with the performance auto tranny vs rebuilding the stocker tougher...obviously minus the cost differences.
 
so he's recommending a 2500 stall which wont do anything for a cammed GT IMO you'd be better off sticking w/ a cheap stock one to save money if your going to go 2500

I'm going to educate myself searching on here on that subject before I talk to him again,,,,,,so I can understand what he's telling me and relay it to yall to see what you think....

without knowing anything I just questioned him to why all of you guys are running a higher stall say around 3500...and he's sayin a 2500.... because if a 2500 was really better i'd think the vast majority of you would be running it...


I'll post up on that subject in a couple days once i get a firmer grip on that subject
 
first off, street racing is gay:notnice: take it to the track.

NA, your not gonna keep up with some of the cars out there, thats just how it is. You have fast car, enjoy it for what it is. Your car proboly doesnt trap much over 106-108mph, which is not going to keep up with many cars on the road that are modded or just fast out of the factory. Get a blower if you want to go faster.
 
just keep in mind that the things you don't like about your tranny like wandering shifts (accumulator springs/pistons) and the apparent slipping (torque convert shudder caused from heat wear) are all being thrown out and replaced with new better parts accompanied with a tranny cooler than can keep them cool and performing right. A built auto is often an auto that they took (albeit new) and did the same thing to depending on the specs.
 
first off, street racing is gay:notnice: take it to the track.

NA, your not gonna keep up with a lot of cars. Your car proboly doesnt trap much over 106-108mph, which is not going to keep up with many cars on the road that are modded or just fast out of the factory. Get a blower...


you guys......I'm going to FI in some form...I just haven't decided... I'm going to save that discussion for once I have the appropriate supporting mods, which I am doing to help support the additional power the FI will bring....it doesn't make any sense to me why you guys are telling me FI..FI...FI.. without first addressing a tranny to take it...For one....I have one of the cars I'd like to outpower when i come across...I KNOW FOR A FACT my stang will not touch my DB right now and probably won't when I finish just the tranny mods....

so yes..I'm doing FI..but i'm trying to move in logical order? or at least what I think is logical order...


And I'm not street racing, let alone planning on endangering anyone's life or my own.......I don't really see any harm where I'm at in the middle of the desert hitting the gas up to 10 or 20 over a 65mph speed limit when no one's around, or in the mountains on roads I know with absolutely no other traffic.....I'm not trying to have a death match with anyone....just some respectable fun with attention to the appropriate time and place.
 
just keep in mind that the things you don't like about your tranny like wandering shifts (accumulator springs/pistons) and the apparent slipping (torque convert shudder caused from heat wear) are all being thrown out and replaced with new better parts accompanied with a tranny cooler than can keep them cool and performing right. A built auto is often an auto that they took (albeit new) and did the same thing to depending on the specs.



now that's what I'm talking about, thank you cobrared.....if that tranny is kinda like the patriot heads I bought, that just uses stock factory heads, then I should probably consider having it rebuilt if i can save some money eh? The only problem with that is finding a reputable shop I can trust... For that I wouldn't know where to start..

What would a good beefy rebuilt tranny cost me about if I found a reputable shop?
 
now that's what I'm talking about, thank you cobrared.....if that tranny is kinda like the patriot heads I bought, that just uses stock factory heads, then I should probably consider having it rebuilt if i can save some money eh? The only problem with that is finding a reputable shop I can trust... For that I wouldn't know where to start..

What would a good beefy rebuilt tranny cost me about if I found a reputable shop?

here, i think i listed what it cost me at the end of the thread: http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=693684
I think my TC actually ended up costing 420? And thats cheap, the TC is a major part of the tranny cost
 
Here is some info from www.lentech.com:

AOD Street Terminator Transmission.................. Now 700hp Rated!

$2595

Now rated to 700 h.p. w/standard 1 pc shaft!
Overview: Features the 1-2-3/4 shift pattern originated by Lentech, compression engine braking in manual second, electric overdrive delete (or lockout) and billet input shaft. This transmission is pressure modulated, meaning the throttle pressure cable controls the mainline pressure with the opening and closing of the throttle. These units are fully automatic with manual shift capability, and their shift "feel" is custom tailored to your application based on information taken about your combination at time of order. With Street Terminator units, overdrive should remain locked out until at freeway cruising speed.
Specifications:
.Quality selected core, completely stripped, all major components washed and inspected for excessive wear
.Pump modified for better lube and cooler flow
.Clutch cylinders modified for extra clutches
.26 modifications in strategic areas for efficient clutch operation and life
.6 Alto redlined 3-4 clutches
.3 intermediate clutches
.5 forward clutches
.3 or 4 reverse clutches
.New redlined O/D band
.All new seals, gaskets, and filter
.New bushings and thrustwasher (where needed)
.New intermediate one-way clutch and spiral lock ring
.New low one-way clutch
.Lentech 1-2-3/4 Valve Body with electric O/D delete
.Hardened 1-piece input shaft
.New oil pan and bolts
.Re-assembled with all critical clearances adjusted for high performance/racing use
.Cast gray finish
.All complete units are dyno tested to insure a quality product
.Lifetime LTD Warranty

Available Convertors:........................................... 12" ( non-lockup ) Part# 7902-CONV-12 ............. 10" ( non-lockup ) Part# 7902-CONV-10.............. 9.5" (non-lockup ) Part# 7902-CONV-95..............
Available Upgrades:
FRPP Wide-Ratio Gearset Part# 7A398-4R70-286 Lentech Cast, Aluminum Pan Part# 7A194-AOD-CST Custom Bellhousing Options Part# 7976-AOD-****
Manual transbrake valvebody Part#7000-OPT-STTB

Also

Plan out exactly what you want now, dont do like some of us and change your mind mid-stream. And do as much research as you possibly can:SNSign:
 
here, i think i listed what it cost me at the end of the thread: http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=693684
I think my TC actually ended up costing 420? And thats cheap, the TC is a major part of the tranny cost



yeah...that's a good thread Cobra.......It gives me some good pricing to pit against buying something complete against...


and well....I just got off the phone with my boy in FL who gave me heads up to a transmission shop right near him that does GREAT work..it's called goodfellas and he actually told they sell on eBay....looks like a good deal no?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AOD-...010QQitemZ200169468546QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

and the website
http://www.goodfellastransmission.com/


1700 shipped is a great price for a good tranny, it says convertor included, but I doubt it's a one I'd be interested in using, maybe they'd upgrade.......I'm just looking at it like this... If i can get a good assembled tranny from a place that really knows the aode for a good deal i'd rather go that way.....otherwise i'm looking at finding a shop that does good work (won't be in my area)....the logistic problems of transporting the car there and back, leaving it....etc etc.....If i have something complete with no rebuild I can drop it at AMP....have it geared, dynoed installed, be out the same or at worst spend the night in phoenix and be back...


for the record....here's the performance automatic....http://www.performanceautomatic.com/transaode.htm