Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by iskwezm, Sep 20, 2006.
i'll find out today. I recieved the first motor finally and ordered a 2nd because the first one never confirmed shipment . But i'll put it on tonight and I have a event tomorrow. So i will keep you guys informed of this saga
anybody wanna buy a NEW motor???? I have a extra one now
well, i took the car to a local event today. I jumped on the freeway, which happen to be moving about 30 mph for a few miles.Normally my car would be 200*+, but in SLOW moving traffic it was about 175ish, after traffic began moving, it was still 175 ish. ON the way home in about 65* weather it was still 175ish. I think it used run cooler at night becaue the old fans blocked less air at freeway speeds. Now with the shroud, it SEEMD to run a little warmer, but a warm afternoon and cool night 175* is perfectly fine with me. Also, since being wired correctly, the volts never dropped below 14V, even at idle. I still have to let it idle for a while and see what it does, but i think this is what it needed.
175 isnt too bad.. You can drop the temps once you step up to an electric water pump.... You still have a t-stat or some sort of restrictor???? Did you remove the pusher fan??? And the only other thing that could affect temps while cruising would be the the engine tune... I run alot of timming and a lean mix, 42* and 15-1 afr and seems to work best.
why would you want it cooler than 175? that is actually a little cooler than ideal
i took off the pusher, i have a 160 t-stat and timing is at about 35*. I dont know my afr yet(majorly rich i assume),because i havent got my LM-1 or had it tuned yet, a water pump is in the future, but i think a wide band is more useful right now.
You don't want it to run cooler than 180. Anything cooler than that and wear goes up exponentially. Put a 180 thermostat in there. Now if you are talking about cooling at motor at the track with the engine off, then that is a different story. Yes, an electric waterpump and fan will help cool a motor waiting in the staging lanes, but you run the risk of killing your battery.
But, I state again. Running around town in traffic, you don't want any cooler than 180.
I'm working towards this project this coming weekend. For those of you that used a 75A relay and switches, what type and size switch did you use. I'm planning on getting the relay from Fourth Gen.
Anybody know anything about these guys?
I am having the same problem as you and just bought a Mark VIII fan. I was wondering due you really have to have a really and what for? I had a smaller fan on my older stang and just hooked it up to run when the key was on so it would run all the time. Why couldnt I just do the same thing?
The fan draws a lot of amps on start up and might burn wiring or a switch that cant handle the load.My old hans were ran through a 25 amp switch for over 8 years and never had a problem, but i dont want a fire or be somewhere with no fan.
1 thread up.
Well it's actually a 70 amp one, but close enought don't you think?
I'm a little late on this but I think I may have a fairly easy solution to the relay issue. I got a fan off a 93 Continental yesterday (Taurus fans were all gone). 20" x 15" (rectangle w/o corner indentations) inside of the edge of the shroud. Big wires as described before. It was plugged into a 30 amp relay and then into the main harness. The relay was on a short set of wires with plugs on either end, so should be easily adaptable. I tried the fan without the relay and it came on hard and fast; with the relay, it was much a much smoother start. Hope it works for y'all too.
Imperial Fan Controler
I bought the Imperial Fan Controller used in this article from FORDMUSLCE http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2003/02/electricfan/index.php
I also have a 70A fuse I would like to use, but there is a problem. The 70A relay is 4 pronged, whereas the 40A fuse that comes with the contoller has 5. Of course FORDMUSCLE didn't show pictures of their 75A Bosch relay they purchased. I looked for it, but the pictures of the one I saw didn't look like it would plug into the controller either. Has anyone used the Imperial/Hayden contoller with a larger amperage relay? I know one guy in this thread used this setup on low with his relay(40A) without any problems. I might do the same, but I'm wondering if the low setting on a Ford Taurus fan is enough to keep me cool during the summer time.
bump.... Anybody, anybody???
In response to questions about our 70 amp relays, these relays are manufactured according to JIS D 5010-77 Specifications, which specifies 100,000 cycles of ON & OFF operations of (2 Sec On and 20 Sec OFF) under Resistive and Inductive Load. These relays are rated for 70 amp continuous operation with a peak load of 80 amps.
We ship our relays all over the world. Delivery time is approx. 10 business days.
Our factory is in India and we have a marketing office in the US. Feel free to email us with any questions.
WTF? ... a few months late
Yeah I'd say so....but interesting this is the first taurus fan thread I've seen. Have installed a couple of them on jeeps, with thermastats to operate it automatically on low and high, with a 3 position toggle switch to turn it off, HI or auto mode......some of the jeep websites have the diagrams and parts to put it all together...works great....
http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=663152&highlight=taurus fan diagram
i built a mild 289 with efi for my buddys jeep (cj7) and we used a tarus fan on low only through a 40 amp relay bout a year ago and it hasnt had any troubles yet and never has run hot
Im working on the same setup with The Tarus Fan and Northern Radiator. Question for you. What did you use for the lower hose? The radiator has that
funky angle on the lower inlet. Did you cut heater hose and intall it around the
orginal shroud you cut to make the radiator fit?