The Cobra II Lives!

[DarkFireGT]

Yup. Went out, pulled the valve cover, everything looked solid, still full of oil... put some gas in it, cleaned the carb out, and she started right up. Don't have a video of starting, but here's a vid of it running. The mic on the camera kinda amplifies it, but it actually runs very quiet. Sounds amazing for a car that hasn't run in 20 years. I'll have it driveable by the weekend. Which reminds me... anyone know anything about the rag joint? I have no clue what this is, as you can tell I'm pretty new at working on cars... my dad never taught me crap. But the guy I bought it from took (he said) some 7/8" bolts out of the rag joint so he could push the car around without breaking the steering column. Now I need to find some bolts/nuts and put it back together, but I have no idea where it is, what it looks like, or if I need special bolts. Any info would be appreciated.

and here's the vid
http://home.mchsi.com/~magnumrt05/ponytrotts.wmv

 

[Wart]

I'll get you some pictures later Thursday.

 

[Wart]

BTW, you really want to change oil and filter before you start it again. Then again shortly afterwards.

 

[THE COBRAMAN]

BTW, you really want to change oil and filter before you start it again. Then again shortly afterwards.

And hoses, belts, fuel hoses, water pump....the list goes on forever.

The crashed '77 I bought had been sitting 20 years. needed LOTS of stuff changed. Wasn't worn out, just aged to the point of being useless.

 

[Blue Thunder]

Sounds amazing for a car that hasn't run in 20 years.

Of course, it's Ford.

 

[Blue Thunder]

Similarly, the 1950 Ford F1 pickup I'm restoring for a guy had sat untouched in his garage for a long time. The inspection sticker was from 1972 if I recall. I filed the points, and ran the fuel line into a coffee can full of gas bungee-cord'd to the inner fender, I dropped in a new(6V) battery, touched the starter button on the dash and it fired up after 30 years like it had just been running. I love old Fords.

 

[COBRAIIW]

Follow the steering column in the engine bay about half way down.
The "rag joint" is simply a peice of rubber sandwiched between two plates with bolts holding it all together.

 

[DarkFireGT]

BTW, you really want to change oil and filter before you start it again. Then again shortly afterwards.

I ran some oil cleaner through it.. I've got the oil and filter sitting aside, waiting for me to run the cleaner through a bit more. Speaking of, what should I be running in this thing? (sorry, dumb questions, I know... )

I found the ragjoint today, when it was light out, easy enough... I picked up a new one though, 'cuz this one was looking bad.

Other than that, the rest looks good. Belts and everything else are very strong. Going to change the rotors, breaks, and sand out the drums... hopefully driving by this weekend or next.

 

[JonDawg]

Which reminds me... anyone know anything about the rag joint? I have no clue what this is, as you can tell I'm pretty new at working on cars... my dad never taught me crap.
http://home.mchsi.com/~magnumrt05/ponytrotts.wmv

Its the nice rubber flexible Donut thingy between the firewall and the steering rack. after you open the hood, youll see the steering shaft, and its the biggest diameter thing on there. Its not too bad to change, you do have to keep the stuff lined up (so the steering wheel isnt upside down when your cruising) I think the hardest part was getting the old bolts off. But get 2 NEW bolts to replace the old ones. Like 3/8s by 1" I think.'

well, good luck, it aint too bad.

 

[Wart]

It should take a special bolt with a shoulder, or a bolt with a bushing.:

I measured this shoulder at 0.500 od and 0.300 thick.

 

[dmoody]

I believe those bolts are specially hardened. I would not replace them if there is nothing wrong with them. You have to remember those bolts serve a very critical purpose.

david

 

[Wart]

See the shiny spot in the second graphic?

It's a staking to keep the bolts from being removed from the bracket.

 

[dmoody]

See the shiny spot in the second graphic?

It's a staking to keep the bolts from being removed from the bracket.

I'm not sure what a staking is?

However harder bolts have more sheer strength also... I was targeting JonDawgs reply to get new bolts. I don't want anybody to get killed because they went to Home Depot and found some low grade bolts to stick in the rag joint.

d

 

[Wart]

I'm not sure what a staking is?

Staking is an intentional local deforming of metal to retain another part, usually with a (center) punch or chisel.

Not to be confused with peening.

However harder bolts have more sheer strength also... I was targeting JonDawgs reply to get new bolts. I don't want anybody to get killed because they went to Home Depot and found some low grade bolts to stick in the rag joint.

d

We could debate the needed strength and toughness of the bolts, I think even a grade 0 would stand up to any stresses exerted on it by a rubber and fiber isolater.

It's the spacer/ shoulder/ bushing that's the key here. Hole sizes aside, the bolt couldn't be tightened enought to keep it from coming loose without doing some serious and fatal deforming and crushing of hte joint.

{edit} I measured the rag thickness, 0.400 inches. The spacer thickness is 0.300 inch. Plus bolt head slop of about another 0.030 and you end up with an approxamate 0.060 squeeze on the rag. Without the spacers it could be tightened till the rag splits.{/edit}

 

[DarkFireGT]

the bolts are still there, thank god. The guy told me I'd need them, but they were still there. Now the problem is I finally got down there and took a look at it, and I have no idea how to get the old coupling disc off (what's left of it). There's pins on both sides of the joint, and they both have a piece of the disc stuck between it, and obviously I need to get the small brackets off to put the new disc in, but I have no idea how to get the brackets off. They are held in by some pins, but there seems to be nothing on the pins to remove them. The brackets move a bit, but can't twist off, as they hit the other parts. how do these brackets come off? here's a pic of what I'm talking about. I sure appreciate everyone's help, and if you need computer help, I'm your guy. I taught myself that, but my dad would never let me work on cars. He wanted me to get a professional job, and not end up in mechanics like him.

 

[Superd88]

That ones riveted?

 

[Wart]

That ones riveted?

None of my IIs have needed the joint replaced, if I can find the keys to my storage I was going to play with an old colum and see the easiest way to get it apart.

 

[Wart]

the bolts are still there, thank god. The guy told me I'd need them, but they were still there. Now the problem is I finally got down there and took a look at it, and I have no idea how to get the old coupling disc off (what's left of it).

One thing I'm certin of is you'll have to pull the shaft from the car.

Don't panic, it unbolts at the firewall.

 

[DarkFireGT]

One thing I'm certin of is you'll have to pull the shaft from the car.

Don't panic, it unbolts at the firewall.

There is a bolt that pulls about half way out, but it gets stuck, it seems on the threads. I was worried of stripping it, so didn't pull too hard. the shaft before the threads is square, if that helps

 

[THE COBRAMAN]

It is designed so that the bolt cannot come all the way out while the intermediate shaft is mated to the column shaft (to retain steering control in the event of the nut backing off). The bolt has a notch in it that straddles a flat spot on the steering column shaft, so it cannot come out without damaging something. It will allow the intermediate shaft to be seperated when the nut is removed as you have already done, though it will most likely need some penetrant to ease the process. The bottom half of the rag joint is secured to the steering rack with a single pinchbolt.

The ragjoint pins are designed to allow some control of the car ,albiet sloppy, in the event of isolater failure. I believe you will have to drill the retaining rivets to seperate the joint, after removing the intermediate shaft from the car.

Like Mark, I nave never had to replace one yet, all mine came with the rubber joint.