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naw,...that's goo sliding it's way to the center

Well, I don't know if the Hylomar let you down or the gasket did.. but we had some European service reps come in a few years back to over see some work and they really pushed Hylomar. After they left every freakin sealing surface that sh!t was applied to leaked oil. I don't know why the Germans and Italians like it so much. It's crap man.
 
And now that I think about it....

While I did find is a little weird, I just figured that with the high humidity today, and w/ how fast the air was moving in/out of each cylinder during the compression ck, the fact that water vapor shot out in little puffs on each compression stroke must be normal.

Guess not.
 
it does look like a head gasket failure, unless you got your greasy fingerprints on the head gasket surface to fool me. but it strikes me odd that the number one cylinder would have such a good leak down reading, and compression reading, and have a blown head gasket.

the chamber however is loaded with carbon, way more than the others, which is why i suspect a bad valve guide seal.
 
it does look like a head gasket failure, unless you got your greasy fingerprints on the head gasket surface to fool me. but it strikes me odd that the number one cylinder would have such a good leak down reading, and compression reading, and have a blown head gasket.

the chamber however is loaded with carbon, way more than the others, which is why i suspect a bad valve guide seal.
The engine has only ran a total of 5 minutes or less, I doubt your seeing carbon, more like the coating that comes from a water/gas/oil cocktail.
 
The blow down test should have given a hissing sound from the crankcase from any excessive leakage there. It should have shown up as bubbles in the radiator if there was a leak between the cylinder bore and the water jacket. Your leak down figures were excellent, so it seems that you have a good seal with the cylinder head and block. I am not at all familiar with the engine to even make a guess at the source of your problem. Like the rest of us, I'll keep watching this mystery to see who or what the villain is...
 
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The blow down test should have given a hissing sound from the crankcase from any excessive leakage there. It should have shown up as bubbles in the radiator if there was a leak between the cylinder bore and the water jacket. Your leak down figures were excellent, so it seems that you have a good seal with the cylinder head and block. I am not at all familiar with the engine to even make a guess at the source of your problem. Like the rest of us, I'll keep watching this mystery to see who or what the villain is...

No radiator during the test, so no bubbles (which I'm sure something would've bubbled had the water jacket been full) but the fact is the engine was tested dry. The water vapor spitting out of the cylinders was residual from what was already there.

I'm gonna melt that copper HG into so many damn pennies..............
 
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Yank that 6 shooter and drop a LS in and be done!!!!!:shrug:Lol

What about Lubbock gasket?
I called them, and the guy that answered this time sounded like he was a new guy. I told him that 6-8 months ago, I inquired, and sent them my only stock HG (from Australia). At that time, I already had the copper one from SCE,and was already going through my doubts about using it, and wanted to have a composite one made as a back up.

That guy told me that they didn't make HG's for automotive, and he had no record of me ever sending my HG in.
So, bottom line w/ Lubbock is that they lost the stocker that I sent them and now claim that they don't make gaskets for anything that could be construed as automotive.
 
Well, the copper HG is on its way to being a bad dream in the past tense.
I called Cometic again before shipping to get a better idea that they can do something for me. Talked w/ a different guy this time, and while they still want my HG to be sure, they "thought" that they be able to make me something.

I should know something mid-week.
 
Well that sucks with Lubbock, they have done many of my 6 cylinder tractor pulling projects.

Can see why it leaked! Copper with no o-ring does not work in my experience. Maybe in automotive with good head bolt pattern you can get away, but with poor bolt pattern 6's. It needs stainless ring with .040-.060 patrussion on the head side and a receiver groove in the block side.
Scott
 
So wait... The compression check looked good but there is still water in the cylinders?

If that's right then is there a secret passage to water in this head to block combination?

What are these spits of water from, humidity was it? It seems like that would require a significant amount of moisture.
 
Oh and....

this:

Picture A

Dontmakemecomeoverthere_zps31b989a0.jpg



or this:
Picture B

mr-rogers.jpg


Cast your vote in "The Next Thread" about which of these characters is the most likely to have narrated the above video.


Disclaimer:
All votes will be confidential unless we can find some way that it's funny.
 
So wait... The compression check looked good but there is still water in the cylinders?

If that's right then is there a secret passage to water in this head to block combination?

What are these spits of water from, humidity was it? It seems like that would require a significant amount of moisture.

I looked at the thread before coming here, so I voted what the hell is thread about, but now I know better. I now pick "A".

As far as my commentary, all unscripted, off the cuff stuff. If I had put any thought into it, it would have been alot more like I write. (problem is,I would've had to edit that vid, and I was too excited to just to get the thing up. But after looking at it again,......the last section where I at the muffler is the telltale,...........that wasn't water condensation coming out the tailpipe,....it was water itself.

Now it's all coming together for me. When I first started that thing there was a puddle on the floor under the flange clamp from the down pipe. I passed that "warning sign" off as a cold, newly started engine and blamed that on water condensation as well. That engine was swimming in water.

The only reason I didn't hydrolock the thing (i believe) is that the pistons were sucking the water in when it was running. How it leaked 7% on the blow down and still was taking a bath is beyond me.
 
I looked at the thread before coming here, so I voted what the hell is thread about, but now I know better. I now pick "A".

As far as my commentary, all unscripted, off the cuff stuff. If I had put any thought into it, it would have been alot more like I write. (problem is,I would've had to edit that vid, and I was too excited to just to get the thing up. But after looking at it again,......the last section where I at the muffler is the telltale,...........that wasn't water condensation coming out the tailpipe,....it was water itself.

Now it's all coming together for me. When I first started that thing there was a puddle on the floor under the flange clamp from the down pipe. I passed that "warning sign" off as a cold, newly started engine and blamed that on water condensation as well. That engine was swimming in water.

The only reason I didn't hydrolock the thing (i believe) is that the pistons were sucking the water in when it was running. How it leaked 7% on the blow down and still was taking a bath is beyond me.


Maybe it's lean as f***?

I hope your sensor(s) are still good.
 
Well that sucks with Lubbock, they have done many of my 6 cylinder tractor pulling projects.

Can see why it leaked! Copper with no o-ring does not work in my experience. Maybe in automotive with good head bolt pattern you can get away, but with poor bolt pattern 6's. It needs stainless ring with .040-.060 patrussion on the head side and a receiver groove in the block side.
Scott
I've always been under the impression that o-rings are a must with a copper hg.
 
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