Build Thread The Hoopty Chronicles - New House, New garage, New Car?

  • Sponsors (?)


Having serious issues with the install today. Fought the cobra booster for a hour or so and finally got it in after elongating the holes and beating the tower in.

Now, can't get the bottom line threaded into the turbo coupe MC so I gave up and ordered the SN one to use with then 3-2 conversion.

This is officially worse than the heater core.
^^^ this. I hate to post this but in all honesty some of the reasons my heater core hasn't been replaced and I'm still rocking 4 lug. Both jobs are a pita. Staying 4 lug for me was also due to the fact that I already ordered 4 lug axles,etc and I liked my wheels. I will do both one of these days but I sure am not looking forward to it.(86's are even worse than the 87' up)
 
^^^ this. I hate to post this but in all honesty some of the reasons my heater core hasn't been replaced and I'm still rocking 4 lug. Both jobs are a pita. Staying 4 lug for me was also due to the fact that I already ordered 4 lug axles,etc and I liked my wheels. I will do both one of these days but I sure am not looking forward to it.(86's are even worse than the 87' up)

Had to borrow my brothers truck this morning. I gave up on it yesterday, that has NEVER happened before. I did pick up a SN master last night to swap in. Shouldn't have any issues now...
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Brake system complete (finally)!

'93 cobra booster and '94 master cylinder. Also installed was the MM 3-2 port conversion and gutted the factory proportioning valve. The FRPP PV was installed on the firewall in place of the union.

rqZLVO.jpg
gOI8AU.jpg
OiXCdC.jpg

The issue now is with the pass rear caliper. For whatever reason, there is a gap as shown in the photo below. The piston extends when the pedal is pressed, but for some reason, it will not close the gap. Any ideas here? @Mustang5L5

C3qEIu.jpg
 
Did you do a good job bleeding the brakes? Maybe have some air still in there?

Possibly the prop valve needs to be adjusted to get more braking in the rear?
The brake issue has been since I did the 5 lug swap. Initially, I thought it was becuase the MC was not moving enough fluid, but the problem persists now. I know I got the air out of the brakes. Bled the piss out of them.
 
Yes. After these pictures were taken, I reinstalled the intake (which had to be removed to fit the booster in) and started the car on the jack stands to see how everything was working before putting the rolling stock back on. When I heard grinding coming from the right rear, this is what I found.

Like I said, I've known there was an issue 6 months ago when I did the swap, I just thought the issue was because of an improperly sized MC. Now I know that is not the case.
 
Does that caliper match the other rear caliper? Same width?
Does your other rear caliper have the same piston travel as this one?
Are you thinking the piston has max'd it's travel and is not stuck halfway?
When you bled the line was there a good amount of fluid flow/pressure?
No leaks, creases, kinks or obstructions in that brake line?
 
Does that caliper match the other rear caliper? Same width?
Does your other rear caliper have the same piston travel as this one?
Are you thinking the piston has max'd it's travel and is not stuck halfway?
When you bled the line was there a good amount of fluid flow/pressure?
No leaks, creases, kinks or obstructions in that brake line?
1. Didn't measure
2. Have not pulled off other side to verify, but there is no gap at all. Works fine.
3. No idea
4. Oh yeah. Nothing that raised suspicions at all.
5. It's a new line, so no. and the flow when bleeding was good.
 
Last line of questions and ideas for me.
1) if the other caliper is the exact same then it's reason to believe the piston is stuck and will not fully extend to the pad thus concluding the caliper is faulty (assuming good fluid flow in brake line). How far is the piston extended on the good caliper in order to contact the pad? More? Less?
2) Do you have the correct rotor thickness? Typically after opening bleeder and compressing pistons back into caliper with new brake pads there is not much of a gap. Typically it's a tight squeeze to get caliper with pads back over the rotor.
3)Since you say this was a pre-existing condition (before 5 lug swap) I'd think the problem is more upstream? :scratch:

Just throwing darts at the wall in order to get you to think it through well. Good luck.
 
The only one I can truly answer correctly is 3 - and I meant that it was like that when I did the swap. Initially, the caliper I had had a stripped out bleeder so it was junk and I went and got a new one (this one). Im thinking the issue is the caliper itself and may just need to replace it.... again.
 
The only one I can truly answer correctly is 3 - and I meant that it was like that when I did the swap. Initially, the caliper I had had a stripped out bleeder so it was junk and I went and got a new one (this one). Im thinking the issue is the caliper itself and may just need to replace it.... again.

This.. my thoughts.