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Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by hoopty5.0, Jul 20, 2014.
Yes, and now,...in this minute,.....You can actually relish in the fact that I'm jealous of that.
Here's the money shot. @84Ttop - just a couple little spots with the die grinder and we were in business. I used a couple of 30a relays and wired them up with a switched ground from a diagram I found from @jrichker. Drove to work this morning with 1 fan and the A/C blowing and no issue. There was also no traffic, so the test will be going home today.
On another note - Did I read somewhere that the Ford racing plug wires are junk and to use some other brand?
Fan looks great!!
I personally would pass on the Motorsport wires, not a huge fan
I like Taylor wires fwiw. I ran them in the past(but presently have the FMS ones also) they were on sale
The motorsport wires currently installed appear to have some age to them. It's on the replacement list.
CEL has been on since I bought the car, I finally dumped the codes today.
85 - CANP circuit failure
31 - EGR valve position / pressure feed back below minimum voltage
12 - rpm not within self test upper limit
91 - HO2S circuit indicates lean
31 - same as above.
To add, the hose between the smog pump and the metal tube that goes to the back of the heads is missing. Can someone tell me how/if the codes correlate and if plugging the smog ports on the heads and getting the resistor will fix these issues? @jrichker @mikestang63 @revhead347
The car has a hacked up emissions system, no cats and as of next year will no longer require smog testing. Is it more advantageous to replace or remove? The smell doesn't bother me as the windows are up more often than not.
I have never seen a car throw a code due to removal of the thermactor tube. I would honestly target the first two codes first and see if that fixes the problem. The canister purge solenoid failure is most likely due to the solenoid itself. This solenoid lets excesses pressure out of the gas tank, and vents it through the charcoal cannister and then into the intake. The solenoid is located on the firewall near the air conditioning drier. It has a single two wire lead going to it, and two hoses that look like standard vacuum hoses.
The second code is usually caused by a filthy and or jammed EGR valve. On a car that old, you are probably better off just changing the EGR valve. It may also be the position sensor on the EGR valve, but since the valve is the more common failure I would check that first.
I have never had good luck with Ford Morsport wires. They always leaked for me. I prefer the Accel 300+ series. They have the thickest boots which provide the most insullation.
Had a bad o2 sensor, planning on bypassing EGR tomorrow. I have had a couple of people tell me they had the same problem with the dead cylinders, ended up being a bad ECM. Woohoo.
No more CEL! Replaced the o2, super glued my cracked EGR plug back together and no more issues.
Also slid in the other drive shaft and seems to have fixed the vibration issue.
Tomorrow my new door hinge pins come in along with the striker bushing which should fix the more annoying rattles in the car. Shooting for a Lincoln town car ride noise level, or as close as I can get...
Small update tonight, but by far the best fix to date - I put a door striker bushing on the driver door and got rid of some bad rattles. It's like a new car! Still need to do passenger door, but MAN what a difference a quiet ride makes.
It's simple sh it like that that makes one of these cars tolerable despite their age. So often I see a thread where the guy complains about the car being miserable to drive daily, and I think I'll bet it wouldn't suck if you'd just replace the striker bushings, all of the weatherstripping, and tighten up all of the screws that are loose or missing that hold that plastic inside together.
Been enjoying the peaceful ride this week in the mornings, but the afternoon is like a sauna. Stopped by a tint shop I've used before to see if he could squeeze me in, but he was out for the afternoon. Then I tried the local off road shop to see if they'd do the the tint and put 3.55s in, but got the "we don't like doing those anymore since it takes so long" and "it'd be next week before we could do the tint." <---- said with a hint of arrogance.
So, got a recommended shop for the gears, $350 in labor plus whatever parts are. Yikes, seems steep, right? I can do it myself, but reeaaallllly don't want to mess with it. Might keep looking...
That's in the ballpark of what shops are getting these days. If the shop knows what they are doing then it is worth the extra $50 or so to know it is done right the first time.
Yep. Im still on the fence between 3.55 and 3.31. The other half of me says its probably negligible, but the other half wants better acceleration. Either way, it's going to be better than noisy 4.10s.
I really liked 3.55's. Had them in 2 cars. I'm switching to 73's because...not sure why??!
What kind of mileage did you get? I used to get low 20s in my GT back in high school, Id like to replicate that. Not really sure what I am getting now, there are too many factors that I still need to fix to improve how it runs.
I averaged around 18-20mpg but I had my foot in it a lot. On hwy I got around 23-24mpg. I really don't think 3.55's change your gas consumption much. I went from 2.73 & 3.08 up to 3.55's and didn't see a change either time. Maybe an extra gallon a week? Maybe?
These were all previous cars that I used to dd.
Well, I commute 50 miles a day. 70 mph is 2500 rpm with the 4.10s. I'd like to think I'd use less fuel, but my fuel consumption thread a couple weeks ago didn't really help that argument too much.
I love/hate super glue...
The funniest thing I ever saw was my wife with her fingers stuck to the super glue tube. I can't begin to tell you how tempted I was to let her stay stuck that way...
I think you'd use less fuel but maybe not as much as you'd like. Lol. Really I think you'd drop 2-300rpm and see maybe an extra mpg or 2.