Build Thread The Hoopty Chronicles - New House, New garage, New Car?

After driving to work this morning, I can say that the mount fixed a lot of vibrations and fixed a few other issues as well that I didn't know were linked. It was quiet save for the usual amount of road noise, which I hope to fix with fat mat soon enough when I pull the interior apart for a heater core.
I should link your progress thread to my #1 son who just drove his 86 back to the AF base in Shreveport.
That way, he'll have a reference for how much stuff you have to do to what is basically a good, running car, to make it a "nice" running car.
 
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I should link your progress thread to my #1 son who just drove his 86 back to the AF base in Shreveport.
That way, he'll have a reference for how much stuff you have to do to what is basically a good, running car, to make it a "nice" running car.

There are a lot of ways I could have saved a ton of time and money returning things to 'functional' status as opposed to 'upgraded functional' and still achieved a similar result as you well know. But people like us can't leave well enough alone. Is he the "Hey, it works now." Type or the "Ok, but how can we make it better?" type?
 
There are a lot of ways I could have saved a ton of time and money returning things to 'functional' status as opposed to 'upgraded functional' and still achieved a similar result as you well know. But people like us can't leave well enough alone. Is he the "Hey, it works now." Type or the "Ok, but how can we make it better?" type?

He thinks he's the how can I make it better type. Till he realizes that it costs, time and money.
(typically more than the "what's it gonna take to make it run" version)
We'll see.
Right now if he has to split the time between a video game, and that car,...I'm betting it all on the video game.
 
Spent a couple hours today working on the front suspension. Swapped in stock A-arms with new poly bushings and 94+ ball joints and they fixed the narrow track width and positive camber issues. Looking forward to driving it to work tomorrow to see how it affected the handling. Now that I have stock arms in, I am going to reinstall the sway bar and correct the body roll.

No pics to show, it looks about the same.
 
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Having driven the car for the past 2 days with the correct suspension geometry, I can finally say I have the car to where I'd be comfortable taking it on a road trip without much worry. Still needs a couple random items and I have a very small fuel leak somewhere under the hood that I need to track down, but overall, the car is in good shape.

For anyone thinking of DDing a fox, it took me 2 months of spare time and some forced time to get a car in somewhat decent shape to a good working order. I'm probably in the car for a shade over $5k, which is what you'd pay for a decent probably road worthy car anyway.

The caveat here is that I did upgrade the braking system and transmission, which you may or may not count as 'necessary'. I still need to install the correct master cylinder that's sitting on the workbench to get rid of the soft pedal, but overall, the car is still relatively stock.

Future 'mods' are currently in limbo as I have a wedding in December that I'm helping to pay for. You may remember I have some TFS 170s on the shelf with some other stuff to go with them, but I honestly think it'll be next year before it happens. The calendar is currently hoovering any and all spare time.
 
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There's an issue with the wiring on one of my electric fans, so that pushed me to finally order a Derale dual fan controller. Found a new one on eBay for $119 shipped, should be here next week. Pretty slick unit. The first fan turns on at the manually set temperature, the second fan turns on 10° higher than that. They turn off at 10° below the set temperature. Sold the A arms I pulled off yesterday, so it was essentially free. . . If you wanna look at it that way.
 
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I plugged the plastic line that runs into the engine bay from the gas tank. I think it went to the purge canister, but it's no longer there. That was the source of the gas smell emanating from the underhood area (I think). Will there be any side effects from plugging it?
 
I plugged the plastic line that runs into the engine bay from the gas tank. I think it went to the purge canister, but it's no longer there. That was the source of the gas smell emanating from the underhood area (I think). Will there be any side effects from plugging it?

Sounds like a question for @jrichker
 
I plugged the plastic line that runs into the engine bay from the gas tank. I think it went to the purge canister, but it's no longer there. That was the source of the gas smell emanating from the underhood area (I think). Will there be any side effects from plugging it?

That acts as a vent from your gas tank. It needs to vent out the vapors and it will stink of gas from time to time if you don't have a functioning charcoal canister and purge solenoid. If you don't like the look of it in your engine compartment it will fit under your passenger side fender. That's how i'm doing it since i've smoothed and tucked my shiz.
 
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Charcoal canister plumbing - one 3/8" tube from the bottom of the upper manifold to the rubber hose. Rubber hose connects to one side of the canister solenoid valve. Other side of the solenoid valve connects to one side of the canister. The other side of the canister connects to a rubber hose that connects to a line that goes all the way back to the gas tank. There is an electrical connector coming from the passenger side injector harness near #1 injector that plugs into the canister solenoid valve. It's purpose is to vent the gas tank. The solenoid valve opens at cruse to provide some extra fuel. The canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.

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It does not weigh but a pound or so and helps richen up the cruse mixture. It draws no HP & keeps the car from smelling like gasoline in a closed garage. So with all these good things and no bad ones, why not hook it up & use it?


The purge valve solenoid connector is a dangling wire that is near the ECT sensor and oil filler on the passenger side rocker cover. The actual solenoid valve is down next to the carbon canister. There is about 12"-16" of wire that runs parallel to the canister vent hose that comes off the bottom side of the upper intake manifold. That hose connects one port of the solenoid valve; the other port connects to the carbon canister.

The purge valve solenoid should be available at your local auto parts store.

Purge valve solenoid:
6



The carbon canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.
Carbon Canister:
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Something self destructed in the driveline. Got a lot of metal on metal noise and driveshaft vibration. It's coming from the transmission area, but didn't have time to investigate this morning.

Patience is wearing thin on this thing. I haven't had a single calendar week pass since owning it that I haven't had to do something.
 
Something self destructed in the driveline. Got a lot of metal on metal noise and driveshaft vibration. It's coming from the transmission area, but didn't have time to investigate this morning.

Patience is wearing thin on this thing. I haven't had a single calendar week pass since owning it that I haven't had to do something.
That was my summer . Good luck buddy .
 
Crawled under the car to find a busted u-joint. Thankful it didn't let loose on the highway!
Been there, done that....not a good feeling AT ALL! The whole time I was saying "please don't flip the car, please don't flip the car!!" .....as I coasted from 130mph:eek: and the d/s is beating the S HIT out of the underside of the car!! Ended up coming to a safe stop but there was a good bit of collateral damage to other parts.
 
Side story lol, I had a twin turbo Nissan pickup that spun a ujoint apart in a 3rd gear pull. Through the floor board and cracked the windshield right in front of me... I thought I was getting shot at then the smashing of under body came to my ears... no good.