The most I can do to my N/A, no turbo or nitrous.

Discussion in '2.3L (N/A & Turbo)' started by bobbylx, Oct 12, 2004.

  1. bobbylx New Member

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    Ok, like the title says, what is the "most" I can do to N/A engine without going turbo or using nitrous? I have been able to find random threads about different things but I was hoping to just them all in a good list. I have noticed a lot of guys here have all their mods in the signatures and lots of them are N/A. So what do you do to make yours a better ride. I am looking at options for my ride. Again, turbo is just not an option for me so I am thinking bolt ons (like cold air & stuff) or some other mods that don't require actually pulling the entire engine. I have read about porting and throttle bodies but am not sure what really helps and what doesn't. Throw me a friggin bone here, :rolleyes:
  2. mr_woodster Active Member

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    waste of time, but feel free to throw your money at it :)
  3. bhuff30 Founding Member

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    start yanking stuff out of the car. it will be more noticible than modifying the engine :rolleyes:
  4. JamesBaumann Member

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    Without pulling the engine out there isn't really all that much you can do.

    If you want real speed then a n/a 2.3 Mustang is not for you. However, if you are like me and you just want a car that has a bit of zip to it as a daily driver then there are a few things you can do.

    Cold Air and Exhaust are always good starting points. Then you can go into the head. The ports on the head are very restrictive, so take a grinder and make them larger and smoother. What year is your Mustang? If it is 87-90 then you can look into upgrading to a roller cam that are found in 91-93 2.3 Stangs. You can have the head milled out as well for a little higher compression.

    The bottom line is that you are not going to make serious power out of a naturally aspirated 140ci (2.3L) stang. I am doing pretty well all of the mods listed above and I expect to be anywhere between 130-150hp. A typical turbo user makes in the 200hp range.

    Again, I am just looking for a car that is a good solid, smooth, reliable daily driver with a bit of balls to it. I'd say 150hp in a little Mustang is still gonna go pretty good. I'll leave the other big time horsepower projects to 5.0L's and probably a 2.3L Turbo project.
  5. kiddiccarus New Member

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    Cold air is an awesome bolt on for the N/A. I use mine all summer and once a month in the winter to make sure that it is running correctly. In the fall and spring though, I just roll down the winders and pop the sun roof and drive fast.
  6. Crovax Type O Danzigative the Dark

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    It seem that the easiest way to go faster is to have 4.10's, 10:1 compression, long tube header and a t-5 transmission.
  7. 140cilx Founding Member

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    Cro's answer is the best shortest reply I ever read.

    I was just going to say "stickers".

    check out my n/a mods page on my site.
  8. Lex Founding Member

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    Wow I get a dejavoo everytime I see this topic come (including from myself when I first joined)

    The only thing you can do is search the forum or go to the tech sticky. The most I done so far is Gutted my Cats and installed a Custom Cold Air Intake system. Next will be the T5 swap if I can ever find one :shrug:
  9. bobbylx New Member

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    Yeah, I am going for what James said. This is my everyday driver and I am not going for race speeds, just want a peppy work car. So, as of now I am planning the cold air and exhaust. I will have to find a tech article on porting the head, but I would like to do that. Also will look into the header and cam.
    So is there an underdrive kit for 88 2.3's? How about injector? About once a month or so I perform better if I add fuel treatment so I figure those are getting nasty. Anything I missed?
  10. Red_LX Doubt I could be of much help, unless you need por

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    Well, the 2.3L is no engine to be getting naturally aspirated power out of. If it was a DOHC design with a good head, maybe, but not as it is.

    I did a few things to my 2.3L Mustang and there was little noticeable effect. Probably the best thing I did was the long tube header as it allowed the car to rev higher easier. Underdrive pulleys were a waste of money IMO, tried em, felt no difference, even on my Turbo Coupe.
  11. JamesBaumann Member

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    I agree with Red.

    Underdrives, especially for a 2.3 naturally aspirated are a huge waste of cash.

    If we were talking a 5.0 or something then I'd say go for it, but considering we are talking about the 2.3, don't do it.
  12. HIGDON New Member

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    Bolt on V-Tech kit?











    J/K Crovax is right on. If you plan to do some porting then a cam would fit right in to the mix.
  13. kiddiccarus New Member

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    the Biggest difference will be a T-5 swap though in my mind. Makes it a lot more fun and the power band is more controlable. I need a T5 :(
  14. 16vstang New Member

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    The Only other thing you could do is a volvo dohc head swap. that would put close or past the 200 hp mark just NA. But it involves alot of work and fabrication.
  15. kiddiccarus New Member

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    :bang: Not a good idea for a Newbie............Not a good idea for anyone that is on a budget either.
  16. 89Stang Founding Member

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    yeah not a lot you can do.
    Just exhaust intake and transmission swap.
    Though I managed 18.2 out of an auto coupe 2.3L at gateway international...
  17. mr_woodster Active Member

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    18.2 ! was this 1/8th mile ? :D
  18. TurboFlush Founding Member

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    N/A's are expensive to get power out of.

    but without pulling the motor all of the above answers are good.
    Personally I say putting a good exausht on will help the most; you will gain power, but you will also feel like you are moving faster just because of the amount of sound and tone coming from the car.

    underdrives really add nothing? hmm, and I went and bought some, I think it was from RedLx or someone. ohh well, they will look the ****z. LOL

    If you want to get into the motor a lil more pop the head off, port it and have it shaved all the way. 3 angle valve grind. I would even look into getting new bigger valves, and a cam. that'lll cost from $30-$400 depending on how far you want to go.
    The cylinder head is the center of power, everything comes in and out of this, and is probably more complex than the ECU in all respect. It has to do so many things and try and fit it into a small area.

    Ford built the originall design for these back in the 70's maybe even the 60's as a 2.0 then later they designed the Lima 2.3 correcting some problems. The motor was designed to be strong. they use them in tractors !!!!

    TF
  19. Crovax Type O Danzigative the Dark

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    Obviosuly it's the half mile.
  20. Lex Founding Member

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    Heres a question, for someone like myself which has a 88HP NA motor for my 90 mustang, Can I drop in an new model engine thats a DOHC ? and 140HP?

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