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I can't take that much credit, there were several who participated in that decision. I just threw your name in the hat. You and @mikestang63 deserve the elevated status. Even the casual observer can see that you both offer more than your share of helping hands when it comes to helping the guys sort out their problems.

I'm just here for the cheap booze and free women.. or is it the free booze and the cheap women? Anyways. thanks!
 
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Sigh,.......... Another day of paddling in a circle.

The last update had me vowing that come Hell or highwater, I was gonna find some additional sealer to augment the spray-on copper coated head gasket currently hanging in the garage. This morning started w/ me googling "The best way to seal a copper head gasket" and I followed every link to see if I could find a "sho-nuff" solution to the problem.
Yellow bullet was where I ended up. For the sake of brevity I determined that I was gonna find some Permatex Super 300, and use that brown-black goo to do the job.

So I set out for the local mom and pop auto parts store to buy it.

They don' got it.

I get in the car, drive ten miles to Advance.

They don' got it.

Instead of chasing my tail, I call O'reilly's, and Autozone.

Neither do they.

I get back in the truck, and while I'm driving, call stinkin' Permatex corporate. For the next 35 minutes, I explain my situation to one of their "technical product specialists" to find out why in the hell that stuff is so elusive.
He listens,...... asks me all sorts of questions about my engine, ponders for a second, and tells me this:

I don't want Super 300. That product is old school. (Good, cause I can't find that crap)
He has a much better product recently developed, that is way better suited to my application. (Problem is, I can't use it in combination w/ the now copper coated head gasket.(That is not a problem, that stuff wipes off with lacquer thinner.))
"What's the name of your "way better product"?" I ask, "and where can get it?"

"It's called Permashield, and you can get it at Advance
"What tha, I just leftstupid Advance, and now I'm walking into Carquest, will they have it?" I ask. "Yep", Permatex Expert Dude replies, "You can find that stuff at every auto parts store."

Perfect.

They have it alright, they also have every Permatex sealant under the sun there INCLUDING Super 300. But I follow dudes' advice, and buy the tube of Permashield.

I really don't pay attention to what makes it so special, but when I get home I take it out of the bag to open it.............Huh, whad'ya know....... It's Permatex's alternative to Hylomar.

I already have stinkin' Hylomar.
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Submit it for your consideration. This is the EXACT same stuff as what I spent the better part of 90 minutes trying to find.:bang:
I actually found it kind of funny after the fact.
To the guys at Permatex, the formulation that equates to Hylomar is "new".

To the guys at Rolls Royce,...they've been using that s hit since the 60's. Hell, the engineers at RR came up w/ Hylomar as a solution to seal the synthetic lubricants used in their early jet engines.

No matter, It only cost 8 bucks. I was home, I had what I needed, and I proceeded to start wiping off the three layers of copper coat off of the head gasket.

Followed by a liberal smearing of Hylomar, uhh Permashield on the head, both sides of the head gasket, and the block. It's weird junk,..consistency of snot when applied straight outta the tube, and doesn't want to stick w/ any consistency. But let it cure a couple of minutes, and it sticks to the stuff you smeared it on, and can actually be "managed". You can drag your finger across it, and create a film, (which I did).

I installed the head, followed by the studs (head sits too close, and at an angle to the firewall, gotta sneak it against the firewall to get it there), then the washers and nuts.

Torque 30, 60, 80, ft lbs.

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If stuff is gonna ooze outta my engine, I prefer it to be something like this.

It took the rest of the day to do what shoulda amounted to an hour, (and I'm still not done) I decided to install the pushrods, and rockers, and lash the valves.

The Problem is the machine shop that originally drilled and tapped the studs for the rockers, drilled them at wonky angles. The studs were originally intended to be 3/8 coarse in the head, but I had to have them redrill and open up the thread size from the original 3/8 inch to 7/16 inch to fix their screw up. Unfortunately, the guide plates that I had to build for the head were built to the original wonky stud angles. Three of the six guide plates were so screwed up, I had to cut them back apart and re-weld them. That took the rest of the day.

This pic was taken at end of day, 11 of the 12 rockers are right, I'm gonna have to take the last guideplate off (again), and cut it (again) because it's still wrong.

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Once i get that guide plate straightened out, I'll focus on putting oil through the engine via the pump.
 
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I'll preface this with, "I read it on the 'net." so take it how you will -

Anyway, the interwebz told me that the main cause for O2 sensor failure is from silicone combusting in the engine and coating the 2 little metal plates within the sensor, thus preventing electron flow between them, thus rendering the sensor useless. I bring it up because there now seems to be an inordinate amount of silicone in and around the motor. The likelihood of the sensor failing right away is slim (if at all) but it may cause issues down the line.

Or not at all. After all, what can you really trust on the net anymore?
 
I'll preface this with, "I read it on the 'net." so take it how you will -

Anyway, the interwebz told me that the main cause for O2 sensor failure is from silicone combusting in the engine and coating the 2 little metal plates within the sensor, thus preventing electron flow between them, thus rendering the sensor useless. I bring it up because there now seems to be an inordinate amount of silicone in and around the motor. The likelihood of the sensor failing right away is slim (if at all) but it may cause issues down the line.

Or not at all. After all, what can you really trust on the net anymore?

Well,.....again I'd be tempted to agree with you on the amount of silicone that is now probably in the chamber. 'Cept it's not silicone. It's Hylomar. notice how both tubes pictured are totally devoid of any reference to the words RTV, or silicone anywhere on the labels.

The oozed out stuff is still tacky, (No longer like snot, now more like a boog, ready for flicking) I assume that the now compessed junk is the same way. I hope that the fire ring kept alot of it out of the chamber, I guess we'll see on that one too.
 
I've cussed Hylomar many times using it on turbo machinery. Definitely boogery.. I have to say it's consistency is unlike anything else I've ever used.. Hope it works for ya, Mike.
 
Today we had a goal. The goal was to see oil pressure, and to get that stinkin' last pushrod guide plate straightened out.

Other than the obvious, what does this look like to you?
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It's the motherload. I've hit oil. I'm rich.

I went to AZ this morning, and bought one of those trigger-style oil cans, two more qts. of non-detergent 30w oil, a 1/4-28 bolt, and an el-cheapo mechanical oil pressure gauge.

One of the things I neglected to do when i built the engine, and modified that dorky assed oil pan was to determine #1. how far the recip assy extended below the pan rail, and #2. how much oil I could put in the damn thing before I'd have to worry about #1.

From what I've read, stock 250 pans hold a paltry 4 qts in the pan, plus one in the filter.
I don't have a stock 250 pan, I have frank-n-pan.
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Now on another forum, I asked, (and learned) that the rotating assembly extends 2.9" below the pan rail. The top of those goofy outriggers is around 3.5" from the pan rail. So my thinkin is that I just add oil until the dipstick says that oil is that high.

That's what I did.

It takes 7 quarts to get there. So for those of you doing the math, I added 3 quarts of capacity to the stock pan, by (a.) making it into a fox pan,and (b.) adding the extra polygons on the sides.

(Is that what they're called? They're damn sure not a rectangle, and not a triangle, so they MUST be a polygon)

Anyway, enough geometry. I added the 7th quart, and oil indicates that it's there. I get the little oil squirt can, remove the outlet hose of the oil pump and back fill that dude w/ about 2 ounces.
Tighten it back up, and install the El Cheapo oil pressure gauge in the turbo feed line, screw the 1/4-28 bolt into the pump and put the drill to it.

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yeah,...that'd be 90 P.S.I. at the turbo. I'm thinkin that that may be a problem,......Can there be too much oil running to the turbo? It probably needs restricting, I'd imagine?

I let it all settle, and checked the oil level. With the filter, (half filled already) 8' of -10 lines, nd the big assed oil cooler, another qt disappeared. (I added qt #8)

I went through the rest of the day Sticking the drill back back on the pump. Oil pressure is almost immediate every restart, and I'm checking that pressure after it has ran through the pump, lines cooler,and filter with the turbo oil feed at the end of the 6' run of -4 braided.

Happy dance time:
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I put the turbo manifold (Medusa) back on.
More paint ruined in the engine compartment.
At this point, there are so many chips there it just doesn't matter anymore. I just touch it up w/ trim black spray paint that I spray into a cup, and then dab the chip w/ a match stick torn out of a book of matches. I'm just not meant to have a engine compartment that I eat off of I guess.
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The last thing I did was cut out the "gaskets" for the intake manifold out of some Felpro branded gasket material. Used a piece if 1-5/8 exhaust tubing as a cookie cutter, and beat out the centers of each individual gasket that way. One more day, and I'll be back where i was a week ago, only this time w/ an engine that is primed, and sealed (hopefully).
 
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No pressure adjustment on the external pump? A shorter spring on the pump pressure relief valve might be the best answer. Check with the folks that made the pump...

Putting a restrictor in the turbo feed alone will reduce the flow volume to the turbo, it may not reduce the pressure. You might consider a shunt type system that works like the fuel pressure regulator on a EFI 5.0 Fox. The shunt would be from the Turbo oil feed line to return line to the oil pan. Use a restrictor in the shunt to reduce the flow volume and pressure.

None of this sounds like the best solution, which would be to reduce the oil pump's output pressure by tinkering with the pump's pressure limiting mechanism.
 
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No pressure adjustment on the external pump? A shorter spring on the pump pressure relief valve might be the best answer. Check with the folks that made the pump...

Putting a restrictor in the turbo feed alone will reduce the flow volume to the turbo, it may not reduce the pressure. You might consider a shunt type system that works like the fuel pressure regulator on a EFI 5.0 Fox. The shunt would be from the Turbo oil feed line to return line to the oil pan. Use a restrictor in the shunt to reduce the flow volume and pressure.

None of this sounds like the best solution, which would be to reduce the oil pump's output pressure by tinkering with the pump's pressure limiting mechanism.
there is definitely an external pressure adjustment, the guy at aviaid said that output pressure would be somewhere around 75 psi hot. ( which I think this will be once the oil is at temp)
I still think that is too high though but then again, I'm no expert in that area by any means.
 
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there is definitely an external pressure adjustment, the guy at aviaid said that output pressure would be somewhere around 75 psi hot. ( which I think this will be once the oil is at temp)
I still think that is too high though but then again, I'm no expert in that area by any means.
May still be to high . Considering the clearance in the bearings , it would almost be the equivalent to a high volume pump in a stock clearance motor . All that oil cramming in the small orfice and it may starve the bearings . Just food for the thought that I am sure you thought of .


Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
 
I see 100 lbs of oil pressure cold and 80 lbs hot with no ill effects at all. While you might think that I have some exotic engine, it really isn't anything crazy, just good hard parts and your everyday 351W stroker. The blower see's the same 100 lbs of oil pressure and has an air injector to atomize the oil (it is fed from the bottom of the case with the help of 30 some psi of boost). In order to keep the blower from over filling the case I have the top of the case vented (I can't imagine you can achieve this with your turbo, but thought it worth mentioning) and use a -10 AN drain
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I don't know about 90-100 psi, but from my limited knowledge of street turbos, typically a ball bearing turbo will get a restrictor, and a journal bearing type turbo will get straight unrestricted engine oil pressure to keep the oil wedge.. So... Mike, do you have a BB turbo?
 
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