- Dec 19, 2010
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^^ That looks to me like a good deal. Cheaper than what on3 broke it off in me for...
Yuck. I hate remembering that..
Build Thread 1978 Mercury Cyclone. The pig is in the pen.
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Yuck. I hate remembering that..
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This is what I bought^^ That looks to me like a good deal. Cheaper than what on3 broke it off in me for...
Yuck. I hate remembering that..
Whether or not the "Made in USA" makes a difference, I could justify the difference between the 49.00 or so for the obvious Chinese pieces, and this one (although they all look the same to me)
This one cost 79.00.
Better than the close to 200 the DEI blanket costs.
Piddlin',...piddlin', not doing much of jack.
Just above, I said i ordered a turbo blanket. That blanket came in today. As did some header wrap, a 3/8" check valve for the power brake booster, and the speedo gear for the electronic gauge sender.
(Which I am formally going on record right here and now. There is something f'd up about that POJ sender, it fits weird. Just so I can say "I knew that POJ was screwed up" after it fails)
I installed the blanket, seems simple enough, and I'm satisfied w/ the quality.
I wrapped what I could of the down pipe. I shoulda wrapped the thing when I had it off the engine during the head gasket fiasco,....but that didn't happen. And as much of a pain in the ass as it is to get that damn thing off when the exhaust manifold is in place,...it's just gonna have to do.
I called Taylor wire, and asked their tech guy if I could wrap my plug wires in a bundle w/o worrying about crosstalk and wire arching, he said that that wasn't a problem. So I did the plug wires a little differently than I've ever done before. (Considering I've never had a lame ass 6 banger, that would stand to reason)
I had the last AC line made up this morning. I was right. The guy charged me MORE to make the one line than my dude 40 miinutes away charged me to make 5. Oh well, It's done and now the AC system is sealed.
That header wrap is some damn stuff called Lava wrap. It is so full of irritating, scratchy stuff, just touching it tells you that you're gonna itch somewhere.
I put the momentary pushbutton and the led to calibrate the Innovate into Winkin, and wired the gauges w/ weather packs
I installed the DS, and that suspect speedo sender into the tailshaft of the 4R70. Then I cleaned off about a years worth of accumulation of junk off of the trunk, and re-opened that dude because I've gotta decide where I want to put the Optima.
Maybe here I think.
All I know is that it cant go on the other side, That is now full of water reservoir, and pump.
I was thinkin' about dropping the battery into the spare wheel well and copy my boy Scott, but think I'll reserve that space as a future emergency tool storage space.
All of these pics span about the last week, so it's not like I was Bucky Beaver today or anything, The sense of urgency to get it running hasn't hit me yet, so I'm still just taking stuff one day at a time.
Just above, I said i ordered a turbo blanket. That blanket came in today. As did some header wrap, a 3/8" check valve for the power brake booster, and the speedo gear for the electronic gauge sender.
(Which I am formally going on record right here and now. There is something f'd up about that POJ sender, it fits weird. Just so I can say "I knew that POJ was screwed up" after it fails)
I installed the blanket, seems simple enough, and I'm satisfied w/ the quality.
I wrapped what I could of the down pipe. I shoulda wrapped the thing when I had it off the engine during the head gasket fiasco,....but that didn't happen. And as much of a pain in the ass as it is to get that damn thing off when the exhaust manifold is in place,...it's just gonna have to do.
I called Taylor wire, and asked their tech guy if I could wrap my plug wires in a bundle w/o worrying about crosstalk and wire arching, he said that that wasn't a problem. So I did the plug wires a little differently than I've ever done before. (Considering I've never had a lame ass 6 banger, that would stand to reason)
I had the last AC line made up this morning. I was right. The guy charged me MORE to make the one line than my dude 40 miinutes away charged me to make 5. Oh well, It's done and now the AC system is sealed.
That header wrap is some damn stuff called Lava wrap. It is so full of irritating, scratchy stuff, just touching it tells you that you're gonna itch somewhere.
I put the momentary pushbutton and the led to calibrate the Innovate into Winkin, and wired the gauges w/ weather packs
I installed the DS, and that suspect speedo sender into the tailshaft of the 4R70. Then I cleaned off about a years worth of accumulation of junk off of the trunk, and re-opened that dude because I've gotta decide where I want to put the Optima.
Maybe here I think.
All I know is that it cant go on the other side, That is now full of water reservoir, and pump.
I was thinkin' about dropping the battery into the spare wheel well and copy my boy Scott, but think I'll reserve that space as a future emergency tool storage space.
All of these pics span about the last week, so it's not like I was Bucky Beaver today or anything, The sense of urgency to get it running hasn't hit me yet, so I'm still just taking stuff one day at a time.
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I am the killer of days.
Give me a perfectly good 8-10 hour day, and I will lay waste to that Dude as if it were a mere minute.
Sunday was such a day. All set to make "significant" progress today. I laid in bed at 6AM going over the plan so as to accomplish the most possible.
I decided that I was gonna get back on the wiring, because I wanted to finish up the column and get it buttoned up. I started off doing just that. I got the wipers working,....but not to factory spec, I have three positions,....low, high, and off. What's missing from that is the magic that is the "park" mode, where the wipers reset themselves instead of just stopping where you turn them off. (How to make that work is beyond me).
Bottom line is
#1. I don't care.
and
#2. If this car sees more water than what it gets from washing it, that'll be a miracle. So for now the fact that I have working wipers w/ both speeds is 21st century stuff.
I figured out the headlight circuit, and I now have working park, headlights, and high beams.
This part wasn't w/o it's own drama, because this is a problem:
See, when I first hooked up the low beams, I had nothing. I hooked up the high beams and I had that, but no lows. I thought "you dumb bastard, all you gotta do is dim the lights back down to low beam. But I couldn't. That stupid new steering wheel is so close to the lever, it wont let you pull it forward to dim/brighten the lights.
Now when I had the other wheel, I had a black gloss billet spacer that spaced the wheel back 2". This wheel doesn't use that spacer, it won't fit.. So I had to make an adapter to allow me to use it.
I transferred the circumference of the spacer onto a piece of 1/4" aluminum, and cut it out w/ my portable band saw. To get it perfectly round, I drilled a hole in the center big enough to getva 7/16 bolt through, then chucked that dude up in my patent pending, redneckified, poor mans' Bridgeport.
This thing worked like a champ. W/i a minute it was perfectly round.
I'll tell ya this, If nobody comments on this, I'm just gonna stop posting. I deserve a cookie for that one.
I drilled it full of holes, hand sanded the thing after that, shot it w/ some rattle can, and Viola' a spacer/adapter:
Now for some real, unadulterated time killing:
Now that I had the column all wired, I wanted to close it up. Months ago, I made the column trim out of steel. Today, I decided to wrap that steel in leather.
(Big mistake)
The holes are drilled and tapped for the thing in it's naked state. Covering the thing in leather add's at least 1/8" between the two halves, and now none of the holes come even close as far as lining up. Lets not even mention what kind of a pain in the ass it was to cover, now the stupid thing wouldn't go back together.
I had to modify. I had to adapt. I had to overcome. I made it work.
Not perfect by any stretch of the imagination, there are some raw edges in a couple of places, and I think the steering wheel is gonna rub. But since I didn't have the screws to bolt the adapter onto the spacer, that'll just have to be another bridge I cross another day.
Give me a perfectly good 8-10 hour day, and I will lay waste to that Dude as if it were a mere minute.
Sunday was such a day. All set to make "significant" progress today. I laid in bed at 6AM going over the plan so as to accomplish the most possible.
I decided that I was gonna get back on the wiring, because I wanted to finish up the column and get it buttoned up. I started off doing just that. I got the wipers working,....but not to factory spec, I have three positions,....low, high, and off. What's missing from that is the magic that is the "park" mode, where the wipers reset themselves instead of just stopping where you turn them off. (How to make that work is beyond me).
Bottom line is
#1. I don't care.
and
#2. If this car sees more water than what it gets from washing it, that'll be a miracle. So for now the fact that I have working wipers w/ both speeds is 21st century stuff.
I figured out the headlight circuit, and I now have working park, headlights, and high beams.
This part wasn't w/o it's own drama, because this is a problem:
See, when I first hooked up the low beams, I had nothing. I hooked up the high beams and I had that, but no lows. I thought "you dumb bastard, all you gotta do is dim the lights back down to low beam. But I couldn't. That stupid new steering wheel is so close to the lever, it wont let you pull it forward to dim/brighten the lights.
Now when I had the other wheel, I had a black gloss billet spacer that spaced the wheel back 2". This wheel doesn't use that spacer, it won't fit.. So I had to make an adapter to allow me to use it.
I transferred the circumference of the spacer onto a piece of 1/4" aluminum, and cut it out w/ my portable band saw. To get it perfectly round, I drilled a hole in the center big enough to getva 7/16 bolt through, then chucked that dude up in my patent pending, redneckified, poor mans' Bridgeport.
This thing worked like a champ. W/i a minute it was perfectly round.
I'll tell ya this, If nobody comments on this, I'm just gonna stop posting. I deserve a cookie for that one.
I drilled it full of holes, hand sanded the thing after that, shot it w/ some rattle can, and Viola' a spacer/adapter:
Now for some real, unadulterated time killing:
Now that I had the column all wired, I wanted to close it up. Months ago, I made the column trim out of steel. Today, I decided to wrap that steel in leather.
(Big mistake)
The holes are drilled and tapped for the thing in it's naked state. Covering the thing in leather add's at least 1/8" between the two halves, and now none of the holes come even close as far as lining up. Lets not even mention what kind of a pain in the ass it was to cover, now the stupid thing wouldn't go back together.
I had to modify. I had to adapt. I had to overcome. I made it work.
Not perfect by any stretch of the imagination, there are some raw edges in a couple of places, and I think the steering wheel is gonna rub. But since I didn't have the screws to bolt the adapter onto the spacer, that'll just have to be another bridge I cross another day.
- Dec 19, 2010
- 5,719
- 4,238
- 224
^^Also works well for turning down alternator fans when they are too large and hit your turbo housing.
You can machine your own steering wheel spacer but have yet to make a Cyclone Branding iron....
Lol
Lol
So as to be able to move the wires to the rear, and not have to undo anything, I cleared the driver side floor of all the junk, trash, and non-essential parts that have been amassing there forever. I scraped the rest of the undercoating off to what seemed to me to be a stupid procedure. (Scraping off sound deadener to put sound deadener back on) I built the DS seat rear mount and bolted it through the floor. Once it was completed, I covered the driver side of the passenger compartment in my sound deadener of choice. (Ebay, wannabe Dynamat.)
Once covered, I ran the ground cable, and the wires that go to the rear of the car.
This is hopefully how I'm supposed to run my grounds. (Cause it's pretty much a done deal at this point)
From what I read, all sensitive electronics, and sensors should be grounded at the engine. The pic shows the main ground cable, three 12 ga wires crimped under one lug that the ECU, sensors, and gauges will tie back to, and one 10 ga. wire ran to the body all fastened to a 3/8" bulkhead that is anchored to the engine on the other side via a 2 ga cable.
I had bought the necessary bolts to bolt my steering wheel back on.
I was right,....it rubs.
Once covered, I ran the ground cable, and the wires that go to the rear of the car.
This is hopefully how I'm supposed to run my grounds. (Cause it's pretty much a done deal at this point)
From what I read, all sensitive electronics, and sensors should be grounded at the engine. The pic shows the main ground cable, three 12 ga wires crimped under one lug that the ECU, sensors, and gauges will tie back to, and one 10 ga. wire ran to the body all fastened to a 3/8" bulkhead that is anchored to the engine on the other side via a 2 ga cable.
I had bought the necessary bolts to bolt my steering wheel back on.
I was right,....it rubs.
- Dec 19, 2010
- 5,719
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The black trim ring rubs on the leather wrapped front edge of the column trim.
- Dec 19, 2010
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That thing is paper thin aluminum, or plastic. The Alabama bridgeport will trash that thing before I even get things spinning.
Grounding looks/sounds good to me Mike, Are you still using chassis grounds or is the whole system floating back to the battery?
Word of advice, Ignition and ECU power and grounds should come directly from the battery. I've seen plenty of interference when not done this way, we chased our tails for a bit years ago when using the MegaSquirt in a past project.
Word of advice, Ignition and ECU power and grounds should come directly from the battery. I've seen plenty of interference when not done this way, we chased our tails for a bit years ago when using the MegaSquirt in a past project.
Well, there is where I'm confused. Everything that is anchored to that bulkhead can be thought of in two different ways:
Every thing is directly grounded to the battery.
Everything is directly grounded to the engine block.
('Cept the red wire, it's grounded to the engine, the battery, and now the body.)
I plan to add additional ground straps to the body at the battery end of the cable.
In theory you are 100% correct and it should work, should being the key. Personally I wouldn't run the risk of any interference from another electrical component that shares that same pathway. ECU's and Ignition boxes emit quite a bit of interference and they could entangle one another on the way back to the battery. Imagine all of the electrons in the wire have a brick, they live in Baltimore and are all trying to steal the same Nike Air Jordan's. This makes for an ugly mess...
All kidding aside I would run them separately back to the battery as I have had issues in the past while combining grounds on sensitive electrical parts. I even go to the extreme of locating my ignition box and computer several feet apart and run my power wiring and ignition wiring on opposite sides of the car.
Mike, as long as you make sure every ground has a copper wire path to the battery, you should be in good shape and avoid the interference Nick is talking about. I have my battery and engine grounded to the frame, but I still essentially have (sort of) a floating ground system. No ground relies on the chassis steel for a path to the battery. Wires do all the work. Separating the ignition box is a very good idea.
I'm getting electrical noise from my water pump in my stereo though. I think I need to install a filter somewhere.
I'm getting electrical noise from my water pump in my stereo though. I think I need to install a filter somewhere.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
In theory, the EEC ground should be separate with no other electrical devices grounded to it and directly to the battery like the one under the hood. That being said,. I've seen many guys with trunk mounted batteries use solid chassis grounds with no ill effect.
Tonight's update is brought to you by the makers of extra strength Tylenol.
And by......
Hoffman-LaRoche.
Whom without their ongoing support, this update would not be possible.
I'm back on my knees.
Just when I start to think that I've ran all of the necessary wires to get all of the circuits accounted for, another damn omission stares back at me, in the form of a forgotten wire.
I started out by finishing the entire floor. Now it's all covered. For those of you asking yourself, As nice as this car is gonna be, why he didn't paint the inside to what will amount to be a completely different color before he laid all of that sound deadener on top?
I'd point out:
It's hidden.... The old body color is now "time capsuled", trapped under a non-removeable layer of foil faced tar. That will be under jute, and That, will be under carpet. I don't even care that old yeller is under all of that. I started out like I cared,....measuring each piece, trimming it to fit, butting the next piece up against the previous, but by the time it got down to the back seat,..I thought "Who cares if the stuff is wrinkled,...Who cares if it over laps?"
I slathered the rest on after that.
Once all of that was done, (and I used every little bit of that stuff) I fastened down the three cables that now run to my battery.
I called The tech guy at Megasquirt and asked how he suggested that I run my grounds. He wanted a separate, dedicated run to the battery for the sensors, ECU, and Relay board, and a ground to the engine block, frame , and chassis for the starter and all other devices that are not in category 1.
I had some 4gauge from an "amp kit" that I bought to power my 3 channel amplifier for the stereo system. Since the amp is in the back, and the battery is as well, I didn't need that much, so I ran the bulk of it as a ECU ground.
I found an old rubber isolater for the AC condenser. I had 5/16 studs on each end. I checked for continuity to be sure that I would maintain my floating ground. It ck'd out. I bolted it through a hole on the DS, and attached the 4 ga, and the ECU grounds to it.
That freed up the 2ga. to do everything else.
That left me w/ a relay board that needed mounting. I had already made the mount for that thing when I built the dash, I just had the board out so I could wire it, otherwise, I'd have to do all of that laying on my back.
But because I forgot to add the fuel pump, I ended up laying on my back anyways,........with that.......bar..... right in the middle of my lower back.
This isn't even a "face cam" it's an angle w/ the camera laying on the floor where your head would be.
I am almost finished w/ the main wiring. Man I tell ya, I thought it was gonna be easy, but even w/ the Ron Francis panel,...wiring a car is a complete pain in the ass.
And by......
Hoffman-LaRoche.
Whom without their ongoing support, this update would not be possible.
I'm back on my knees.
Just when I start to think that I've ran all of the necessary wires to get all of the circuits accounted for, another damn omission stares back at me, in the form of a forgotten wire.
I started out by finishing the entire floor. Now it's all covered. For those of you asking yourself, As nice as this car is gonna be, why he didn't paint the inside to what will amount to be a completely different color before he laid all of that sound deadener on top?
I'd point out:
It's hidden.... The old body color is now "time capsuled", trapped under a non-removeable layer of foil faced tar. That will be under jute, and That, will be under carpet. I don't even care that old yeller is under all of that. I started out like I cared,....measuring each piece, trimming it to fit, butting the next piece up against the previous, but by the time it got down to the back seat,..I thought "Who cares if the stuff is wrinkled,...Who cares if it over laps?"
I slathered the rest on after that.
Once all of that was done, (and I used every little bit of that stuff) I fastened down the three cables that now run to my battery.
I called The tech guy at Megasquirt and asked how he suggested that I run my grounds. He wanted a separate, dedicated run to the battery for the sensors, ECU, and Relay board, and a ground to the engine block, frame , and chassis for the starter and all other devices that are not in category 1.
I had some 4gauge from an "amp kit" that I bought to power my 3 channel amplifier for the stereo system. Since the amp is in the back, and the battery is as well, I didn't need that much, so I ran the bulk of it as a ECU ground.
I found an old rubber isolater for the AC condenser. I had 5/16 studs on each end. I checked for continuity to be sure that I would maintain my floating ground. It ck'd out. I bolted it through a hole on the DS, and attached the 4 ga, and the ECU grounds to it.
That freed up the 2ga. to do everything else.
That left me w/ a relay board that needed mounting. I had already made the mount for that thing when I built the dash, I just had the board out so I could wire it, otherwise, I'd have to do all of that laying on my back.
But because I forgot to add the fuel pump, I ended up laying on my back anyways,........with that.......bar..... right in the middle of my lower back.
This isn't even a "face cam" it's an angle w/ the camera laying on the floor where your head would be.
I am almost finished w/ the main wiring. Man I tell ya, I thought it was gonna be easy, but even w/ the Ron Francis panel,...wiring a car is a complete pain in the ass.
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Husky44
10 Year Member
I'm trying to find time in my schedule to finish wiring the 67. You're not encouraging me in the least...
BTW, I would definitely give you a cookie, if you were closer. That's a redneck masterpiece.
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