Progress Thread The Only Part Of A Chevy You Don't Have To Tow (until Now), Into An Sn95.

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by tannerc91gt, Mar 30, 2014.

  1. It runs along the rail on the drivers side where the prop valve will mount. Then follows the lower rad support around to the passenger side and runs along to the rear on the factory line
    I had initially planned to run them into the wheel wells so you couldn't see them at all but that'll have to be another day
    #301 tannerc91gt, May 27, 2014
    Last edited: May 27, 2014
  2. 10-4, just saw some pics of a similar setup
  3. Prop valve necesssery?
  4. It is and it's not. Right now I'd call it a 70/30 split in braking. Its just a normal manual setup and should be fine for regular driving. But from talking with a couple guys at PA racing and a few buddies running much faster times than I, it was recommended.
    The fronts lock up a lot quicker than the rears right now as the fronts are in the rear port of the master and vise versa But there's a lot more contact patch in the rear with the 325s. At high speed, with the fronts fully braking sooner, the rear tends to try to outrun the rest of the car.
    Prop valve will be installed in the front line (can do front or rear depending on which side you're trying to reduce) and will restrict fluid to the fronts allowing the rears to handle their fair share.
    I'm sure I've over explained it but I figured someone else may be curious as well.
  5. I'm assuming that you understand that it is essential that the fronts "lock" before the rears do?
  6. ...or odd things happen.
    tannerc91gt likes this.
  7. "Yes". I made no suggestion of changing that
    #307 tannerc91gt, May 28, 2014
    Last edited: May 28, 2014
  8. nah, you'll be ok. Rear end whipping around doesn't sound all that bad. Maybe you could make it into a drift car and do this instead of the "ebrake yank and pray". All joking aside, I am confident you will get the brakes dialed in.
    Funny I never thought about a valve in the front lines. I am just basing this off of the 5 lug conversion I have done where the manual prop valve went into the rear brake lines. But then again the prop valve in the distribution block was gutted for the swap. I would have never thought that a prop valve would go into the front lines. Just be safe with whatever you decide to do.

    FYI-still waiting to see this thing making a few passes down the roadway.
  9. If you think about it though. When I'm trying to balance out fluid delivery, the valve can't supply more fluid to the rear. My system has no distribution block of any kind. So the front is the only way it has any effect.

    Thanks though, going to work on it now. Hopefully get to do just that
  10. Well s hit.

    Got it "aligned"
    Had it up on stands so I could click it through the gears. The order seems to be PNR123. Which is odd? Or maybe I just don't know something. This being my first go around with a full blown bells&whistles auto.
    Accidentally put it in P while the wheels were still spinning (barely). Still enough to make you cringe at your $2,500 transmission.
    Thinking I may ditch this cheetah shifter anyways. All problems aside I think I want a quarter stick :shrug:

    I threw out my old tune and started fresh. Idles at 13.8-14.0 now. Much better for my lungs.
    Got my input/output harness and connected it all.
    @RacEoHolic330, if you end up buying this piece, just be aware it's literally 15-20' of wire so there's no need to run anything TO the ecu. It'll come to you.
    For some reason the ECU won't let me pin the fans to the right outputs. I'm sure it's something I'm doing wrong. I tied it in to B12 and B11 but it only wants to recognize B12 and B6(there's no B6 in the pin map:scratch:)

    Decided to try and putt it around and see how it goes.but... I popped the fuse between the starter post and alt.
    Wondering if I even need it there at all, also thinking it's much too small (30A)
    Just one of those learn as you go things.
    So I'll replace that tommorow and take it for a spin when ive got someone to tow me home.
    #310 tannerc91gt, May 28, 2014
    Last edited: May 28, 2014
  11. Going to try tuning the idle in Alpha-N. I think it should solve my issue
  12. I actually did buy that $65 coil of wire with a connector on the end. haha. I used the inputs/outputs I needed and rolled up the excess and left in the passenger footwell area. It can stay tucked under the carpet for easy future access.

    B11 and B12 should work fine for a fan output. B6 is for one of the injectors, so that's strange. Are you driving a relay with the outputs?

    A fuse from the alternator is a good idea, but it should be approximately the size of your alternator. I have a 150A fuse for mine.
  13. I did the same with mine haha
    The fans are wired to seperate relays and supposed to be grounded by the ECU when it hits 95* and 190*.

    I assumed that the alt really wouldn't ever see it's rated amperage, although a 30A is small regardless. I'll be swapping to a much larger fuse. Thanks for the heads up
  14. Not sure what's happened but the car won't run now. After having a perfectly running tune yesterday.
    I switched out that fuse that was blowing with a section of wire. I've got power to the panel, starter and alt. 12v KOEO and functioning sensors. Map reads 100kpa and pulls to the usual 70 when it starts to run.
    It's loading up on fuel from the looks but AFRs show 14. There's no throttle response( cable later broke so there's a bonus) it's just a mess
    Figuring out what gear you're in is a disaster with this thing and I think the shifters setup incorrectly. It does sort of, kind of run like normal in neutral but in park or gear (so under load I guess) it just lays down on me.

    Pretty frustrated at this point. Be Monday if not next Friday before I even look at it again.
  15. Wondering if the plugs are fouled. Now that I'm home of course.
    On a strange side note, when I hooked a battery up a couple times the fan kicked on (only the one that's pinned correctly.)
  16. Yeah, yeah, yeah,....seems to me a month back you were saying that the build was gonna take some time, bit chin' about all of the money that was left to spend. Fuel system, ECU,..Trans, and converter,...blah,.....blah,......blah.
    Next thing I know you've got a running engine in the car, just blowin' money out your ass like you eat green ink, and paper three time a day.

    "It's gonna be Monday, or Friday before you even look at it again"???


    Cheer up Chevy boy.......It's the Ford "Take that B itch" God smiting you for putting an LS in a Mustang.

    You shall overcome.
    a91what and TOOLOW91 like this.
  17. Mystery solved. I'm guessing they weren't quite this bad when they initially fouled after the fuse popped. Admittedly that probably came from trying to start it a handful of times troubleshooting afterwards.
    TOOLOW91 likes this.
  18. Just a lil soot
  19. Quarter stick in the mail
  20. You should stop watching the wideband at idle, thats why the plugs got that bad that quick. 14.0 is way too rich, make the car idle where it is happy and then use the wideband as a go-by for consistency later on.