custom89stang said:
That came from MATT90GT and BLACKFOX5.0, I KNOW GT40XStang9, its a bunch of BS! Hate people who dont know what they're talking about.
Why did you feel the need to make a new thread about this subject? Also it would perhaps not be a good idea to call BS and proclaim your HATE for a ser senior members that have been around for a long time. I already replied to the other thread but maybe i should cut/paste what i said there here.
custom89stang said:
Okay, Matt and BlackFox5.0, I dont care how smart you think you are. But if you think that a full rotor (non-slotted/dimpled) is better because it has more surface area you are flat out wrong. Slotted/dimpled rotors are better. Unless you want to show me some actually tests Matt and BlackFox5.0 and anyone else, you HAVE to quit giving false information..
True...but they are not wrong in this case.
Why slotted/dimpled rotors are better?
1. Non Slotted/dimpled dont release as much heat, i dont care what kind of pads you have, the more heat, the worse the braking. The whole point of Slotted/dimpled is to cool the brakes.!!!
How do they not release as much heat? Are they made out of a new space age metal? Heat is produced by friction. You need friction to stop. You cannot generate friction without heat. A FULL out emergency stop from 100MPH is going to generate the same amount of heat in the rotor no matter what type of rotor you are wearing.
2. You say that a Non Slotted/dimpled has more surface area for breaking and that is why they are better thats wrong to. !!!
Yes it does. Think about it. All those holes and slots...hey no brake pad touches those. You want to stop...brake pad needs to TOUCH THE ROTOR!!! You want maxiumum stopping power, get as much pad contact as possible.
Also, #2....drilling and slotting REMOVED mass from the rotor. Go back to what i said earlier about the same amount of heat being produced no matter what rotor is on the car. This heat NEEDS to go somewhere. It is absorbed into the rotor and the energy is spread to all the molecules evenly. Now, a solid rotor has more molecules to absorb this so the overall temp of the rotor stays slightly cooler. A rotor that is cooler has less of a chance of warping plus overheating brakes can lessen the ability of stopping.
Also, all solid, drilled, slotted rotors have the same internal directional venting. The air gets sucked in from the center of the rotor on the backside and pumped outward centrifigally through the vanes. This is where MOST of the cooling comes from. It's a simple centrifigal pump design that works very well.
The drilled holes are not in any spot to aid airflow. The are perpendicular to the airstream and therefor quite useless when it comes to getting anything to actually flow through them. The drilled holes are for gases to escape and there hasn't been a street pad that produces gases made in 30 years.
The holes and slots give the Brakes better grabbing ability to slow down and like they pointed out above, less mass.....!!!
Like i said...how can you grab empty air?? I'm gonna go drill holes in my flywheel because the clutch will grab harder if i do that. It's the same concept as drilled rotors isn't it? But i would be the laughingstock of stangnet if i drilled my flywheel now wouldn't I?
To prove my point, why do you think brake pads with dimpled/slotted rotors where out faster? You'd think since they'd have less surface area they would wear out slower, but they dont! NEWSFLASH, they grab better and wear out faster because they are better with breaking. More of the pad gets scraped off because they grab the slots/dimples better.
Wearing out pads means better braking? Shoot...that must mean my sis's eclipse can stop from 100MPH in 90 feet because it goes through a set of pads in 10,000 miles.
I have not seen any data showing pads wear out faster with slotted/drilled rotors. Taking someone's word for it who has these rotors doesn't mean much because there are so many variables such as driving style, etc. Until i see a real test of sort sort, this doesn't hold weight to me.
Plus it's pretty hard for the 0.5" of the pad over the drilled hole to be pressed in any more than the rest of the pad at any given time. It's going to stay flush with the surface of the rotor because the rest of the pad is pressing on it.
I like your passion for this subject, but your ideas are flawed.
3spd on floor said:
care to elaborate on how a PLAIN rotor has a larger surface area to dissapate heat than a slotted or drilled rotor?
Ok imagine this. Take a rotor...now drill some holes. Hey, you just took out mass and your "airholes" are perpendicular to the airflow that will go around the rotor. Therefore any surface area inside the drilled hole is useless.
Same deal with slotted...the slots are recessed away from the direction of airflow. Therefore they are useless for channeling air. Look at any impellar design and you will see the vanes need to channel water/air whatever from a central point. The slots on the rotor...just appear. The pad covers the slot. And as before...less mass to absorb heat.
This is why we say there is more surface area on solid rotors...think of the direction of airflow across the rotor. More metal for the faster flowing air to be in contact with.
You guys are almost making me want to take a set of rotors down to our wind tunnel and do some testing.
Anything else??
!
