Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by custom89stang, Feb 17, 2004.
Or you can hunt one off ebay for a 93 cobra,
Either MC will work, SVO or Cobra,
I was about to call up my roommate from college and ask him. He knows this stuff the back of his hand. I'll mention it to him tomorrow and i'm sure he'll want to look it up as well
Off the top of my heads, i want to say that assuming the normal force stays constant (same clamping force) i beleive the coefficient of friction is constant as well. Therefore i think the only variable in this equation would be the surface area.
This is a good one. Ok now i'm off to bed.
do i need an adapter for it to fit my 1990 or what?
can i find a cheap one at advace autoparts ...what year should i search for then..86?
or 93 cobra
SVO one should only be used if you have the SVO/Mark 7 front AND rear disk brakes.
If you use it with fronts only, the pedal will be WAY too hard. I've done this combo before.
Either get a 1" bore '93 Cobra unit, a 1" bore 99 V6 unit or i *think* you can get away with a 94-98 gt/v6 1 1/16" bore MC. I would go '93 cobra myself. I don't see many guys use the 99 V6 MC and i think there is a reason for that which escapes me at this time
To bolt the calipers on? No
Ask for a 1988 Crown Victora with the police package. They have steel pistons instead of phenolics
yeah as u can all tell from my insane amount of knowledgable posts in here, i know pretty much squat on the whole #s and figures of brakes. BUT i have heard that when doing a conversion to stay away from the SVO MC.it doesnt have some kindaplug or something for low fluid or e brake if i remember correctly. Who wants to come to long island and get paid to do all my brake upgrades for me???
THIS THREAD CAME FROM ME! CHEERS TO ME FOR STARTING THE BIGGEST/FASTEST GROWING THREAD EVER ON STANGNET.COM!
But for real, so what if it has less rotor, it grabs more cause of the dimples all you dumba$$es
Latham83, it dont matter what master cylinder, all brakes will work. I would try stock and if u dont like the feel save for a new one. As in the previous posts one guy said the SVO MC is bad cuz it makes the pedal to stiff, so stay away from that one. GOOD LUCK!
fucck man this seems like alot of work to put these calipers on..i dont wanna do it unless i buy a new mc..and then i gotta install that and that seems confusing...thats alot of work and money...
i think ill just do the lines, bushings , good fluid, hawk pads, and powerslot rotors...
that should still be 100 times bette rthan teh stock set up eh?
theres no way im running the stock mc with the 73mm's when ive read all about my pedal going straight to floor if i slam my brakes one day........ill be scared all the time and wont feel confident...ya know
How can an ME says this?!?! You know better!
Surface area has NOTHING or very MINIMAL effects upon the force of friction. Draw a small free body diagram of a block sliding down a plank. What factors are there? some mg*sin (theta), force of friction, etc.... notice - NO surface area.
I will say this, the holes in drilled rotors may and will cause stress concentrations and possibly heat concentrations due to the fact that heat may rather travel to more metal within the rotor rather than the air outside of it (thermal impedence). Which leads to cracking, etc.
The larger rotor DOES create a longer RADIUS (normal to the hub). Mustang5L5, you'll get this: Your brake pad acts as something creating a force along a radius, a la torque. When you increase brake rotor size (diamter here people), you increase the radius and because torque = Radius "CROSS PRODUCT" Force, torque increases for the given force created by the piston(s)/pads. BUT, the larger torque due to increased radius induces much more heat. Heat is the enemy my friends. I advise you all to go out right now, stop what you're doing and fight for the cause. Help rid all brakers of heat!
It's bed time.
The more I think about it the more it makes sense that since a wheel is spinning so fast no matter how many holes you drill in it, it will still act as a solid rotor. The special case would be if the rotor and pad are static, in which case the drilled rotors would provide a greater frictional force. Unfortunatly the rotors are in motion. The only time it would help is when the car is almost at a stop.
OK, my 2 cents...cross drilling, slotting, and venting is all about COOLING. Assuming that all rotors are made from basically the same material, and not carbon fiber, ceramic, or silly putty, the only thing that will make your vehicle stop faster is to increase the force on the rotor...larger/more caliper pistons, or more friction...different pads. For the most part, larger rotors simply allow for larger calipers and more/larger pads. How the heck could drilling holes in something allow for BETTER friction? And how the heck could small parts of the rotor somehow be caught by the holes? LOL there would be nothing left of the rotor after a few miles. BTW, traction on tires depends less on the tread, and more on the heat of the tire and the compound of the rubber. The treads acutually are there to allow for faster tire heating and water channeling. Rubber tires actually mold into the little spaces in between the granules of asphalt giving them extra grip. Thats why no one races on smooth concrete tracks...no grip.
Finally, most people's pads are glazed. If you don't break them in well they can glaze in a matter of days, if not hours. I would have to agree that most people's perception of better braking on slotted/drilled rotors are due to unglazed, higher performance pads. Try using your stock, 25,000 mile pads on your new cross drilled, slotted rotors and see how good they are. On REALLY good brakes, you almost wear out the rotors before the pads lol.
They do look damn good tho...
I know you are right. 10 mins after i signed off and went to bed i realized i had said that and did a BIG dope slap. Area has NOTHING to do with the coefficient of friction. I am actually embarrassed now
So why don't we drill our flywheels then?
You call us dumbasses and yet you have nothing to support your claim that the holes/slots help GRAB any better.
The holes are made for FAST cars, like I said before, where the pads will get hot enough to emmit gas, the holes vent the gas to prevent/reduce brake fade.
They do nothing for low speed applications except make braking a little worse.
Unless you will be cooking your pads there is no reason, other than looks, that you should put these on a stock mustang.....If you have 13" brakes and Road race, then thats a good excuse, but if you telling me these rotors are good for the street and work better over stock, then you don't know your stuff, end of story.
So After 4 Bloody pages, and countless back and forth Arguments,
Seems like EVERYONE has agreed on what I said in the first place on PAGE 1
Listen to the Screamer! He knows lol J/K
When I got slotted rotors, I noticed better braking over a new stock setup. I'll vouch for them.
You can use the SVO MC, Lincoln MK VII MC, and even a '94+ V6 MC. The '94+ has a slightly smaller bore diameter, but should suffice.
It's certainly better than using the stock MC with 73mm calipers!
The drilled & slotted rotors are doing nothing for your ultimate braking ability.
Perhaps your tires provide more grip than your brake setup can use.
Get some 195/60R15's and you should be able to lock them up at will!