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Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by bnickel, Sep 12, 2007.
oh, BTW, it looks like you have a loose bolt for the steering box too.
I'll double check the ball joints for grease. I'm certain the lowers are full, grease was comming out the wheep hole. I'll double check the upper, thanx. Are you talking about the bolts for the PS bracket that go through the frame ? I just left them in there so I wouldn't loose them in case I wanted to go back the stock PS setup.
I have, in one of my boxes, a Baer bump steer kit for the car waiting to go on. That wont happen until I buy a set of tires for the car and that wont happen until I get the rubbing issues ironed out with this set of tires. I provably wont get to that until I figure out why my fuel pump some times fails to pump. I think I might have gunk/junk in my fuel lines and of course I've got other issues with the car as well but I'll save all that for other threads.
Anyways, about the welding. The guys at CPP have this kits on a bunch of Novas and havn't had any fail yet so imagine that what they have is enough. If you don't think it is, hey go a head and weld it on but you are going to have to grind off that nice powder coat =(
no i'm talking about the bolts for the steering box, there is a lower one that is very loose, or at least it appears to be.
where are you tires rubbing and were they rubbing before the CPP kit was installed? just curious how the CPP kit would effect that, as mine rub occassionally as well.
as far as the kits on the novas go the factory strut rod "supports" are bolted on anyway so they just re-used the factory mounting points and there are quite a few more on the nova. also, noty worried about the powder coat since i'd get the black powdercoated kit anyway instead of the silver so that will be easy enough to touch up with a can of spray paint, so no biggie
My tires were rubbing before the suspension swap. There are shims for the upper arms which were not installed and that allowed them to pull my wheels in I think 1/4 inch. This kit can actually help reduce rub on 67s and up. because of that. My main rub is on the rear passenger because of bad body work by the PO.
I'll check the bolts tomorrow morning.
was just wondering if the rubbing was something i needed to be concerned about
To clarify: the tires rubbed even worse before the kit was installed. The CPP arm is ¼ inch shorter. This is done for three reasons;
1 The tire rub is a common compliant on the early Mustangs and Falcons.
2 The shorter arm can be shimmed with standard alignment shims like those used on the Falcons, and 64-66 Mustang. This allows a wider range of caster and camber adjustment.
3 The shorter arm has a slightly improved camber curve. It is similar to the same effect as a “Shelby Drop” but not as drastic a change that you get any bump steer from it.
If do not want to pull the wheels in the ¼ inch, simply add a ¼ inch of shim when you install the arm.
There was a mention about the number of bolts that mount the cross member. First off, there are 12 bolts used on all the Mustang and Falcon kits. The Nova’s were riveted on with 10 rivets at the factory. Secondly, we have a 2 bolt doubler plate behind 10 of these bolts. The doubler plates are 3/16” thick and reinforce the chassis at the bolt holes. The only bolt that does not have a 2 bolt doubler plate is the bolt that goes thru the sway bar bracket on the chassis. This sway bar bracket is already stronger than the other parts of the chassis. While CPP does not instruct that the cross member be welded on, you certainly can weld it on if you like.
The number one response we hear about these kits is how the car feels more stable with less wander especially when being pushed hard into a corner, or hard on the brakes. It does not make the car have a whole bunch of extra grip. It simply drives better with more predictability and with excellent driver feed back. This gives you confidence to push the car harder. No more white knuckles when you see a bump coming at you mid way thru a turn.
thanks for the reply Danny, as far welding the subframe goes i would only do a few skip welds just for piece of mind if nothing else, that way it will still be easy enough to remove if needed, just grind out a few small welds.
CPP with Shelby Mod
I bought your total subframe kit. It is being installed as we speak. I just want to verify again that it works as designed with the Shelby Mod.
Yes, the kit works with the Shelby drop. We have installed this on a 1968 with Granada spindles/ disc brakes and the Shelby drop. There were no issues with the alignment. If you have any hiccups during the install call me at (714) 522 2000 ext. 124. Ask for Danny Nix in engineering. I will answer any questions that you have.
Like everyone else on this forum, I am eagerly waiting to read you review about this kit.
Do you have a Spot weld drill bit. They are flat and have a very small point in the center. They make removing spot welds easy.
Anyone have any updates on this?
I thought everything was covered by now, what do you want an update on ?
My car is getting a complete "modern" restoration. Will be a few months before it is on the road. The ultimate goal is to enter it in the new "Restomod Class" at the 45th in Alabama. ( April 2009)
Well, if you choose to judge a firm by the professionalism of their website, the CPP people will be found wanting insofar as there seems to be nothing on there regarding anything to do with 65-68 Mustangs.
Here is the link to the Mustang suspension. We have alot more Ford products than the website shows. We are finishing up our newest catalog. It will have a lot more Ford listings. If you don't see it on the web, call.
Yeah its Chevy but some good info
on the CPP Mini Subframe kit
Hey Rusty 67 how has the CPP system been working for you. Any problems or issues?
Thanks for the update.
Im curious too! On the verge of purchasing the setup but outside of this thread theres not much information out there regarding this suspension in mustangs.
This suspension works great. Its made from good materials right here in the USA. I havn't had a single proplem with it since it was installed and aligned. I still havn't put my OpenTracker roller perches on it, I bet it will drive that much better when I put them on.
Honestly, this stuff is the real deal.
I have the cpp kit on my 65
I can tell you first hand that my car drives real nice with this kit.
I did the full set with uppers and lowers and I threw in some roller perches.
The care does not wander any more when it hit bumps or grooves in the road.
Thank god as I was starting to get a bit nervous on some streets that the car would jump right into a pole or someone.
I only have once complaint about the kit. 50% of the bolts I was sent did not fit. This is a real pain. As I had to run out and get correct ones a few times. Being up here in Canada it is not convenient to call and get correct ones. I am not sure if they just had a bad day in the packing department or what. But a few curse words flew a few times when the wrong bolt was there.
If you car wanders on the road or feels jumpy I would highly recommend the kit.
Just ran across this setup.. Looks pretty neat, I am assuming it is still working good for both of you. The only downside I see compared to a MII, no abilitiy to put in a power rack. I know there are other options like the Randall, but don't really care for that one. Have you crossed the power steering avenue or just give up on it?