Ticking After Spark Plug Change?

[dz01]

Thought I would start a new thread on this.

I just changed my plugs which were initially installed by previous owner (NGK, Ford racing wires, MTD ignition). Supposedly they aren't that old, but I wanted to change them anyway. Based on feedback from most people saying to stick with autolite 25's, that's what I went with. Gaped all at .054 and installed them using same wires (look in great shape). Fired car up and immediately heard a ticking kind of like an exhaust leak tick. It was pretty loud when I took it down the street and back. Definitely coming from the passenger side back.

I thought I might have disturbed the smog pipe in the back of the motor, but it's pretty solid.

I pulled the plugs out and doubled checked gap (one might have been off a little). Made sure they were all snug, checked order of plugs wires and made sure I heard the "click" when pushing the wires on. I did notice the wires seemed to fit on the NGKs better than the Autolites, but that might just be me reaching.

Started car again and although the ticking was still there, did sound a little quieter.

I checked the plug length and the NGKs are actually a little longer so they can't be hitting.

I supposed it's possible to get a bum plug, but seems very unlikely. I did pick up two new plugs anyway so I can at least swap out #4 later. Worse case I'll put the NGKs back in and see if noise goes away.

Anyone ever experience this? Seems very strange. A quick google search yielded many experiencing this for all kinds of reasons.

I'm thinking bum plug or poor wire connection...

 

[stykthyn]

Money is on wires. Did you use boot grease? Fire up the car at night and see if you have a wire arcing. I've had new wires out of the box arc from the boots.

 

[dz01]

No, I didn't use boot grease. Should I? I didn't notice any arc, but it wasn't pitch black out either. Enough that I needed a flashlight.

I replaced #3 and #4 plugs (back two on passenger side) and got car up to operating temp. No change, tick still there. However, I did notice plug wires got red hot. I guess I've never really touched plug wires hot before, but the #4 wire above the plug I could barely touch. Same with #3. The other wires on that side seemed pretty cool to the touch. I went to the other side and #8 was pretty hot too. Is this normal with headers? Maybe it is depending on how close you grab the wire to the top of the header.

My second observation has to do with the smog pump hose. I'll try and explain this...

The metal tube that connects both heads together next to the firewall was warm but not hot to the touch. I ran the car for 6-8 minutes which I would think it enough to get it really hot. If you follow the metal tube around the passenger side valve cover, there's a check valve, still warm, but not hot, then a chunk of rubber hose to another check valve. That hose was red hot! It's basically adjacent the #3 and #4 plug. Then the hose after the second check valve was cool to the touch. This is the section that basically connects to the pump.

This seemed odd to me. First check valve not working right?

I'm stumped. I hate to put the time in again and put the old plugs in. I guess that way it would be free to rule out plugs and go after wires??

Ideas on my observations?

 

[dz01]

Just ran motor in the dark...no blue arc.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

The crossover tube should have fresh air from the AIR pump in it, and I think only after start up. The check valve is working if it keeps the exhaust from flowing out of the head into the tube. I do not think it is not going to get Exhaust pipe hot. Maybe only as hot as the head it is attached to.

Use a misting water bottle in the dark around your wires to check for big misfires, and run a cyl balance test to rule out ignition wire and plug issues.

Is it a coincidental header gasket leak?

 

[FoxMustangLvr]

Put the old plugs back in and see if it goes away. This is a quick and easy way to find out what the culprit is. If the tick goes away then that means it's plug related, not wires. If the old plugs were a little longer then that means the new shorter plugs are creating a spark from a greater distance away from the combustion chamber.

 

[dz01]

The crossover tube should have fresh air from the AIR pump in it, and I think only after start up. The check valve is working if it keeps the exhaust from flowing out of the head into the tube. I do not think it is not going to get Exhaust pipe hot. Maybe only as hot as the head it is attached to.

Use a misting water bottle in the dark around your wires to check for big misfires, and run a cyl balance test to rule out ignition wire and plug issues.

Is it a coincidental header gasket leak?

Just seems odd the rubber hose between check valves gets so hot! Not sure if it's what inside or the fact it's so close to the header throwing heat.

Could be a coincidental header gasket leak. Seems to be coming right from the plug/header/head area of the #4 cylinder.

 

[dz01]

Put the old plugs back in and see if it goes away. This is a quick and easy way to find out what the culprit is. If the tick goes away then that means it's plug related, not wires. If the old plugs were a little longer then that means the new shorter plugs are creating a spark from a greater distance away from the combustion chamber.

Thanks- I'll throw the old ones back in to start from square one. If noise still there, maybe I damaged on of the plug wire connections unknowingly. I did notice the rubber boot slightly burnt from the header, but it doesn't look like it went through the wire. See pic.

 

[dz01]

Thanks- I'll throw the old ones back in to start from square one. If noise still there, maybe I damaged on of the plug wire connections unknowingly. I did notice the rubber boot slightly burnt from the header, but it doesn't look like it went through the wire. See pic.

That's a pic of wire #3 BTW

 

[FoxMustangLvr]

Could you also post a pic of the autolite and NGK plugs side by side for length comparison, i'm curious.

 

[dz01]

Here's a pic of the NGK vs. the Autolite. NGK slightly longer.

Unfortunately, swapped plugs out and noise still exists with NGKs. Grrrr.

Looks like I'm picking up some new wires to rule that out. Otherwise, looks like sheer coincidence which I honestly can't image the second I cranked the engine over with the new plugs.

 

[FoxMustangLvr]

Do a search on here about which wires work best, it's not FRPP wires I think the name starts with a T. They don't arc.

 

[dz01]

Thanks. So it dawned on me to use my mechanics stethoscope and see if I could pin point the noise area. I can definitely say when I put the scope right next to the header and the firewall, the noise is the loudest. I'm still going to replace the wires, but it sounds like the real issue is my header gasket. luck it literally happened first crank after I replaced my plugs. Been chasing ghosts for a week....
Last header bolt definitely looks rusty, not sure I'm up for this challenge. Might take it to my exhaust shop buddy.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

Glad I could help with the gasket! I am thinking about what if it was an ignition wire spark leak and if the stethoscope conducted it to your ears. That would light up your life!

 

[dz01]

Glad I could help with the gasket! I am thinking about what if it was an ignition wire spark leak and if the stethoscope conducted it to your ears. That would light up your life!

haha didn't think of that

 

[dz01]

confirmed today with the help of a new mirror that my header is leaking from the gasket.

Fill fix this weekend then get back to checking my idle and code 41/91 problem. New wires will be here tomorrow too.

 

[dz01]

Here's the pic of the bottom of the passenger side header near the firewall looking in a mirror. You can see a piece of the gasket.

 

[f8tlfiveo]

Taylor wires are supposed to be good, never used them personally though

 

[dz01]

Ticking was due to header gasket. Replaced and all quiet.