Top End Upgrade??

Yea I wasn't saying none of U know what u are talking about just to clarify.. Only meant I get varied opinions and sometimes those opinions are so intense it's hard to make sense of it. The back and forth of it all I mean.
Anyway, like I've said way earlier in this thread is I have no way of knowing what has been done to this motor. That's what is steering me away from building the top end. Obviously. I mean it's painted orange and the heads are magnetic. To me when an engine has been painted I would think someobe has done some work to it. But to leave the heads? Ford strikers has 331 and 347 assemblies built for 6-7k? That's worth it to me because at least I will know what is there. Another issue I need to fix is the whole heater/AC getting out back in. Or even if I want to. Lol. More weight. But again I'm not making a strip car only. And I understand I haven't driven a 400+ rwhp foxbody. But I know for theist part what I want. What I've seen and what I want. 400+ would be great but I also want to make sure whatever I choose can handle more when I get it to the point I am getting it. It's just man nature. I know myself and I will eventually want more. Always


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Damn near evey person that has put their two cents in I've ended up learning a thing or two over the past few weeks. So it's not that I'm arguing what u guys are saying. Not at all. But to tell me what I shouldn't do is extreme IMO.


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I just want to clarify one thing for you. If you use any factory cast block the limits of said casting is around 450-500rwhp MAX. 500 is actually pushing it to its limits and it will eventually fail. If you truly think you are going to exceed this power level you should use an aftermarket block. I think everyone who has stated their opinion is just trying to point out the options and needs of any potential build. Good luck whichever way you decide to go.
 
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Damn near evey person that has put their two cents in I've ended up learning a thing or two over the past few weeks. So it's not that I'm arguing what u guys are saying. Not at all. But to tell me what I shouldn't do is extreme IMO.


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Bill, those of us that are telling you what you "shouldn't do", are doing so because we've been there. We've come in, sporting the "both guns blazing and a fist full of money, but no plan" attitude like you have when we were new. Some of us have spent a pile of cash, wasted a bunch of time and have the skinned knuckles and broken dreams to prove it. Lets' be frank. If you knew what you wanted, or how to achieve it, you wouldn't be here right now asking us. If some of the opinions are coming off as "extreme" to you, its because we're trying to save you money, time and aggravation based on our own personal trial and error.

Don't trust an engine manufacturer or speed shop owner to give you any better advice than you're getting here, because you won't get it. Their job isn't to look out for your best interests....they've got a business to run and that business doesn't thrive by them talking you "out" of spending your money. They will send you in whichever direction you tell them to until you've run the well dry.

That being said, I fully expect that you will take all of this into account, weight the pluses and minuses and promptly ignore the advice given. Why? Because....well, hey......that's what most of us did when we were in your shoes. World by the balls and money to burn sort of thing. It still had to be said though. :D
 
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Damn. Yea I got nothing for that one. You are right. I was really not looking at it like that at all. That's exactly how it feels though. I'm ready I have the money so go get it. And I surely know not to listen to any business. It's a business. It's there to make money. And like U said they will do whateve I want them to do and take my money. I guess I am just jumpin the gun too fast. I feel like I want it done is all. I've said from the beginnig patience isn't my strong suit and many of you all have said I will
Learn patience the easy or the hard way with this project.


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Well hers a little tid bit. Fuel light came on finally. That's how much I've driven this car. Haven't had to put fuel in it yet. Soon as the light came on I thought about this...... How long had this been sitting with the fuel that was in it when I bought it. Abyway. Webt to fill it up. And... The fuel lid button does not work. Had to pry it open at the pump


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oh so thats not an easy switch? I dont know how that works. I just thought it was just a swap the fuel rails and stuff. see thats the stuff i dont have a clue lol


it actually is that easy depending on the cam and as long as the compression doesn't work out to more then 9:1 . You put a decent intake on that motor with rails your fi stuff with the right timing cover and your ready to rock . Again providing the cam suits fuel injected needs . I skimmed quick and didn't see what cam was in it but I seen approx 9;1 I looked up the piston and couldn't locate it right away to do the compression math

Edit - yeah Id change the cam to a Hyd roller . Tfs 1 or something like that for what you're doing .


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So if I swap the cam I'm good to go with rails and such?


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As stated efi manifold and a decent one not your stock one like a trick flow or holley systemax


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No it sold. I had just talked to him about a deposit and went to the bank. And he called me and said someone got it. It was about 5.5 hours away I was gonna give him 500 to hold it but it's gone now. Oh well


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Fresh 306 Never been started EVER
• 306cid (302 +.030) Windsor shortblock, 28oz balance
• Approx.. 9:1 compression
• '87 302 roller block single piece real seal using early crank
• Keith Black Hypo-18 forged pistons KB707
• Romac 28oz harmonic dampner, elastomer, steel/with steel hub, 3&4 bolt pulley pattern
• Sealed Power moly rings
• Cloyes True-Roller timing chain p/n 9-9135
• Milodon 190,000psi rod bolts p/n 82390
• Melling Hi-volume oil pump p/n M86HV
• Canton 7qt street oil pan p/n 15-610
• AFR 165 64cc Aluminum cylinder heads p/n 1400
• Holley 650cfm double pumper carburetor p/n 0-4777C
• Holley mechanical fuel pump p/n 12-289-11
• Edelbrock Performer RPM Air-gap p/n 7521
• Harland Sharp roller rocker arms 1.6 ratio p/n 4003
• Erson hardened pushrods pn/ E917251
• Crane PowerMax hydraulic flat tappet camshaft & lifters p/n H272-2
• Felpro performance head gaskets p/n 10111
• ARP stainless 12pt fasteners p/n 554-9501
• ARP head studs
• Summit cast aluminum tall valve covers, plain p/n SUM-G3322
• Billet specialties aluminum oil breather p/n 20120
• New early style timing cover with timing pointer
• Milodon high volume aluminum water pump, early style p/n 16230
• Chrome O-ring type thermostat housing p/n M8592C302
• Chrome alternator bracket, early style
• Ford Motorsports billet aluminum pulleys: crank, alt. waterpump p/n M8509C
• Summit rolling engine cradle p/n SUM-G1051
 
If it's an early timing cover that will Need to be changed too .


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