Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by ry94stang50, Sep 21, 2013.
G force t-5... Had one... Broke it with 300rwhp..3rd gear..
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I had never heard of that flaw with the TKO600. If you have any questions about the transmission, or want one that shifts better, or want to know which one to buy, ask Bob or Linda Hanlon of Hanlon Motorsports. They know everything.
Thanks guys....I'm actually new to the manual trans game allways had an auto not by choice. So I don't really know anything about them and only know what the t5 feels like. I'm going to want to go the cheapest route in buying one. Kinda iffy about used. So ill likely go with the tko 500 or 600 depending on what "deal" is best at the time.
Yeah it was a real problem back in 11' when I got mine. Hopefully they have gotten it sorted out. Unfortunately the only way to know if yours has that issue is to take it apart and get it mic'd, or drive it and see if it eventually locks you out.
Rick from Rnh is going to be building the 347 so when the time comes ill just take his advice. I'm sure he will know what's best for me.
Good to know. Like I said, you could always talk to Hanlon. If there are any known problems with the transmission, they will know.
While I got you guys here. What kind of power is this 347 going to put down? Lets just say I'm going with the trickflow top end maybe stage 2 cam or something similar and the intake upgraded to the track heat. So street heat heads with the track heat intake. Do you think I can come close to 400 without going too aggressive on the cam? Its got to be streetavle and fairly street manored.
The 347 you described will be under 400rwhp. Somewhere around 400 fwhp so ballpark 360-375rwhp
That sounds similar to my build. My cam is a little more aggressive then a stage 2 and it is very streetable. I haven't dyno'd it, but the car is noticeably faster then my 2012 GT. Two things I would recommend doing that I didn't. First and foremost, get more aggressive heads, I know I'm giving up at least 30-40hp just because I am running box stock Trickflow 170's (maybe more). Second, build it off a Dart block. I told myself there was no way I'd want more then 400-450hp. Now I'm kicking myself cause I'll have to yank the motor and toss the block if I want any more power (which I do).
Yeah that's pretty much spot on what I thought 360 was my guess. I would think a dart block would be way more money tho. A 351 based stroker was a thought. I kinda feel like that would be way out of my budget andmy budget is kinda steep IMHO. I do however feel what I'm spending would be worth it. I hope its a lot better then the stocker 302. Honestly I was disapointed a little bit when I first really got on it afterbi bought it.. granted the cars very tired.
This is where I got my g force t-5... He is very knowledgeable.. Bought his rebuild video also.. Also pretty good.. He is only an hour away from me so I talked to him for an hour or so when I dropped it off.
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Question would finding maybe an older tko trans from the JY and having it rebuilt be smart? Would that save me money or not enough to justify going through all that? Or are they easy enough maybe I can rebuild it myself even tho I've never done that before?
It kind of depends. I consider a new TKO600 to be a starter kit, because I tend to break them. TKO parts are pretty darn expensive compared to the T5 parts. If you get a good deal on a used TKO600 that doesn't need any parts, then it's worth it. If just a handful of parts in there are bad, you are going to spend more money than buying a new one.
Your pushing alot more power then I'm going to be tho right? Also ill prob never put slicks on her anyways. Whats this 3550 trans you were talking about? I'm guessing that's an older trans? Ill prob just get a new tko600I think I saw them under $2500
IMHO you need more heads and cam if you want to make 450+hp and if you're going to do that I highly recommend an aftermarket block. The 351 stroker build is a better idea IMO. No need for an aftermarket block until roughly 700hp,more torque,and a little more unique compared to a "regular"347 build. Back it up with a TKO600 and you'll have a bada** street ride. I'm biased. That's what I'm doing. Good luck with your build
Yeah, I have a little more heads and cam and a 150 shot on slicks. Once you take really sticky tires out of the equation the transmission becomes a lesser issue. You'll get a lot of miles out of TKO600. The 3550 is the predecessor to the TKO500/600. Basically the same thing with a few small changes. Most of the parts are interchangeable. If you're just doing an HCI with less than 6500rpms you'll be fine with a stock 302 block.
I like the TKO 600 series if you want to upgrade as well but all the info posted above is spot on. Ive put 1000rwhp through a MMR TKO 900 which is a cyro treated and refined TKO 600.
I've delt with Bob and Linda for years and they are awesome. Linda knows more about transmissions then most people I know...lol
Broke 2 g-force t5s in the same weekend in a buddies 450hp car, one straight cut and 1 helical. I've also pulled 2 recently to swap to tko600 because the customer hated the noise of the gforce unit....and for the money its just not worth it IMO.
Things to remember... you'll also need a blow proof bell (I like my feet and toes) $500, clutch disc of your current pp is up to par $150, modify the trans cross member $40, and a shifter wouldn't hurt but the stock shifter on the tko600 isn't horrible.
If he goes with a combo that isn't the base TFS kit like a larger tfs cylinder head or a afr185 and holley 400rwhp isn't out of the question....
I've got a boosted car that makes over 600rwhp/500rwtq with a tko500 10 spline input that holds up pretty good so far..its been in a street car over 9 years. Stage 2 Spec is the heaviest clutch it has had behind it....no slicks ever!.
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That's the old TKO. Had the same internals and gears as the 3550 and the 26 spline input.
I was going to go with the base tfs kit but Ive been researching and I def want bigger heads and a more aggressive cam I was thinking AFR 185s or a tad bigger. What about the afr205s are they streetable or is it going to be too much?
I've never had a scattershield in my car. My understanding is that the chances of a clutch coming apart at the revs I'm running is highly unlikely. I can't say I don't recommend a scattershield, but if you aren't launching it on slicks it's really not necessary. They make scattershields that don't need to be adjusted now. In the old days you're only option was the Lakewood scattershield, and you spent 3 days getting it adjusted because you had to install it, check the center with a dial indicator, and then wait 3 days for the correct offset dowels to come in from Summit. You definately don't want to skimp on the clutch. If you are going to get a new clutch with your setup, then I would definitely recommend getting a 26 spline input shaft. You may be able to get away with the 10 spline, but it's only an extra $68 to get the 26 spline. Then you are good forever. I'm running a SPEC 4+ clutch in my car. It's surprisingly very streetable. The 3+ would be fine too, especially if you aren't big into drag racing.