Trick Flow Upper Help

[Terdfurgason]

C/H/I Break In Help

While reading keep in mind im a total noobie at this. I just finished installing my Trick Flow Kit...
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TFS%2DK514%2D360350B&autoview=sku
Into my 95 Cobra. It idles a bit rough but im assuming its the cam but i could be wrong. I tried to use 10 degrees of timing but it was really bad so i used the manuals suggested 34-36 degrees and its the soothest i can get it. I just started the break in and around 15 minutes or so into it i started hearing a rattle, i think its under the valve cover on the passenger side at idle. If i give it some gas it goes away. I hope its not a rocker loose, i used the manual and even called trick flow on how to set them. Its too hot for me to take apart now and check. But if its normal during break in plz let me know so i dont have to take all that apart again. Also i hear a whistle form around the throttle body, is that normal for this set up? Plz help an idiot "mechanic".

Sorry that was so long, for you amusement the things i've done wrong so far...
Broke a head bolt
Lost a couple of bolts and a socket, they all were in the k-member.
Broke a bolt off the throttle linkage bracket
Shocked myself from the old school style timing light
Stripped a bold on the lower intake to head ( i blame TF though )
Mis drilled the oil fill tube in the valve cover

I should never touch an engine again.

 

[drakesdad]

don't sweat the mistakes....gotta learn....and your not alone with the head bolt.....I've got one too.....those rockers chatter .......even now I can hear mine....did you use the correct spark plugs? I am sure you will need some tuning......I had a SCT chip ....but there is self tuning but seeing you said you are a newb I suggest you contact Don at Lasotaracing.com he is "good people"...he has worked with several of us on here for the same issues you are having...good luck

 

[Stanger007]

Congrats on the install!

Your timing should be set at 10-14 degrees with the SPOUT connector out.

Check for vacuum leaks - how well did your EGR clear the valve cover?

What other mods do you have? Stick 'em in your signature for others to see when they reply to ya.

Wes

 

[final5-0]

You have my respect for facing all the unknowns for the first time

Hey ... We all had to deal with a ... first time as well

About that snapped head bolt

If you possibly reused the OEM bolts

You really need to replace them with some ARP bolts
cause
The OEM bolts are a one time use kind of application

Grady

 

[Terdfurgason]

I used new ARP head bolts but i listened to some guy that said they were 1/2 bolts because thats the size of the socket. DONT LISTEN TO SOME GUY! LOL after it broke i did some research to see what i did wrong and you have to measure the shank, as im sure you guys know already, not the head of the bolt. EZ out worked like a charm. Lesson learned.

 

[Terdfurgason]

About the rocker chatter, its only really noticeable on one side. Whats a good indication that a chatter has turned into a problem? Other then a push rod through the valve cover.

 

[final5-0]

About the rocker chatter, its only really noticeable on one side. Whats a good indication that a chatter has turned into a problem? Other then a push rod through the valve cover.

One thing that is hard to get the hang of is adjusting valves
and
If you had someone experienced with you ... to show you

It would be all the more easier :Word:

The deal that is most hard to grasp is the point in the procedure
that all slack is taken up in the valve train but you have not gone
beyond that point and started to compress the lifter.

It takes a very focused effort to feel that exact point. Finding
that point is critical as it is the starting point for your final
adjustment of lifter preload

Since one bank only is making the noise ... adjust that side again
as it is an indication they are too loose

Another thing is you wanna ensure the geometry is good which
indicates all the various parts that make up the valve train are
working with each other in a harmonious kind of fashion.

There is the simple little test of painting the top of the valve with
a Marks a Lot to check for the amount and position of roller travel
across the valve tip. For more details see other posts here or on
one of the big cam companies web sites.

Keep at it ... You'll get all those little bugs worked out in time

Grady

 

[Terdfurgason]

I pulled the valve cover and checked each rocker by rotating the crank manually. Each push rod still has zero lash and just a bit of friction while trying to rotate when the valve is completely closed. None of the rockers have play and the locking screws are all still tight. I'm right at 30 minutes of run time so tomorrow i'll change the oil and start it up again.

 

[final5-0]

Just one more thought on the adjustment procedure

The range of preload that most run on a Street Car is 1/4 to 3/4 of
a turn beyond that no slack point we talked about above

Typically 1/4 of a turn will allow more noise than 3/4

Now ... This is no guarantee that 3/4 of a turn will allow noise free
operation. The ramp rates of some cam lobes are just gonna cause
a bit of noise.

Also ... With even as little as 1/8 of a turn of preload .............

You would not have any slack in the V T but you still could
have noise.

If one or two sound out more than the majority ..........
You focus in on them and look to see why

Grady

 

[Terdfurgason]

I changed the oil today and started her up still chattering, but im starting to think it might be from the throttle body or somehting else vibrating against the valve cover. I ordered the trick flow intake adapter but im still making contact with the valve cover. I think im gonna drive around a bit and see if it gets worse.

 

[Stanger007]

Check the EGR valve at the valve cover. You will hit there if you don't have a spacer.

Wes

 

[95opal]

Check the EGR valve at the valve cover. You will hit there if you don't have a spacer.

Wes

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