tubular k-members
- Thread starter rockingchair69
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
Not to hijack, but I have basically the same question. I know some K-members out there do "funny" things to the suspension geometry that you may or may not want. I was personally looking at the Grannatelli Motor Sports one.
Anyone have any experience with the "not-so-top-of-the-line" k-members? We all know the MM one is great, I just cant afford it.
Anyone have any experience with the "not-so-top-of-the-line" k-members? We all know the MM one is great, I just cant afford it.
payupsucka
Member
K-members
All K-members are not the same, yet there are still a lot of good brands out there. It just depends on what you're using the car for. Daily driver? Street/Strip? Open track/road race? I did a fair amount of research before purchasing the suspension for my road race/open track car. The MM and Griggs k-members are excellent, but unnecessary for anything less than a dedicated road race car. Steeda and UPR sell great K-members that take the abuse of road racing (they're chromemoly steel), but are easier on the budget. Some K-members are just for drag racing, and the manufactures said do not us the car for open track events or daily driving. Kenny Brown, D & D, QA1 and others sell different types of K-members; check around and ask the questions. You can get a good all-around k-member, if that's what you want, for not a lot of money. From personal experience, I'd recommend Steeda's or UPR's. For the record, I have the UPR kit, including coilovers, on the front, and the full Steeda 5-Link II rear suspension with the billet weight jacker trailing arms.
All K-members are not the same, yet there are still a lot of good brands out there. It just depends on what you're using the car for. Daily driver? Street/Strip? Open track/road race? I did a fair amount of research before purchasing the suspension for my road race/open track car. The MM and Griggs k-members are excellent, but unnecessary for anything less than a dedicated road race car. Steeda and UPR sell great K-members that take the abuse of road racing (they're chromemoly steel), but are easier on the budget. Some K-members are just for drag racing, and the manufactures said do not us the car for open track events or daily driving. Kenny Brown, D & D, QA1 and others sell different types of K-members; check around and ask the questions. You can get a good all-around k-member, if that's what you want, for not a lot of money. From personal experience, I'd recommend Steeda's or UPR's. For the record, I have the UPR kit, including coilovers, on the front, and the full Steeda 5-Link II rear suspension with the billet weight jacker trailing arms.
millhouse
Founding Member
I've had nothing but praise for the AJE k-member I have. Yes, the ride is a bit rough…but that is partially due to the tubular a-arms, coil overs and caster/camber plates. There quality is great…and their design just looks more rigid than anything besides the MM'S units.
Whatever you do…pay attention to the location of the engine/wheels. Some of the k-members out there shove the wheels farther foreword and move the engine position.
Whatever you do…pay attention to the location of the engine/wheels. Some of the k-members out there shove the wheels farther foreword and move the engine position.
I have the GMS unit (granatelli) which is more road race, so yes it's heavier than some out there, but very strudy. Almost identical to the MM unit. I ordered the Ground Pounder unit, but they sent me the GMS unit due to the GP unit being a liability because they were breaking and such. Yes it moves the wheels forward an inch, but actually has two engine mounting positions.
Black Sun 5.0
Founding Member
Pardon my ignorance, but I'm getting ready to build a Mustang I just picked up and will be swapping out the stock k-member. What, exactly, is meant by offset geometry and how does this affect the car overall (pro's/con's). I'm currently leaning toward the MM setup myself, it's pretty complete and seems to get the most nods.
millhouse
Founding Member
Black Sun 5.0 said:
Well…per maximum motorsports site… "Lengthens the wheelbase by 3/4". This improves the front to rear weight distribution. It also increases the positive caster, which improves cornering ability." The explain their reasoning on most of their product quite well. Here is more info on their k-member. http://www.maximummotorsports.com/content/tech_info/front_susp/kmember_tech.php
The cons are that it can cause issues with tire rub on the fender/fender liner with wider front tires. As far as how much….you'd have to search that out.
Black Sun 5.0
Founding Member
Yeah, that is the issue I'm a bit worried about. But I get this can be resolved the rolling the inner fender. But my original question had to do with the offeset geometry. Any takers?
Black Sun 5.0
Founding Member
What year car? I just picked up a '90 yesterday to start as a project. The stock wheels/tires look close to rubbing as it is, but it may be due to a saggy suspension.
thehueypilot
Active Member
I'm still shopping around but the price and information really varies between units. They are really hard to compare on an equal basis.
What wheel/tire combo are you running? Any clearance issues? How long have you had it, and is the car strictly street-driven (trying to determine if they're strong)? Thats the same K-member I've been looking at.90mustangGT said:I have the GMS unit (granatelli) which is more road race, so yes it's heavier than some out there, but very strudy. Almost identical to the MM unit. I ordered the Ground Pounder unit, but they sent me the GMS unit due to the GP unit being a liability because they were breaking and such. Yes it moves the wheels forward an inch, but actually has two engine mounting positions.
interceptor7 said:
It will be a drag race car, but on the street. I have it on the car with 15x3" wheels and 165R15 tires and it fits just fine. I have never driven it, do now know much else yet.
