Hey guys, Trying to build a badass garage at our new house and running up short on money because of all these bull##### permits and stuff. I've also always wanted a LSx powered mustang so this will provide me an opportunity to do that one day. I'm selling my complete motor and turbo setup from my '95 mustang. Its gained a lot of popularity on corral.net, here is the link to the build thread: HP Performance turbo + 347 - Corral.net : Ford Mustang Forums All the info is there, I've not nothing to hide. I've got a lot of money tied up in this setup and it has been worth every penny. The car is still 100% functional right now and I would prefer to fire it up for the buyer before I pull it so they know what they are getting. Unfortunately, a test drive isn't going to happen because this car will not see salty, winter roads. I'm pretty sure all the specs can be found in the link above, but heres a quick run through: DSS "XR" 347 (straight off the DSS invoice) Whew! That was only the shortblock! The total for that list above was $8500. Custom FTI cam by Ed Curtis AFR 205cc heads with comp valve springs spec'd by Ed Curtis Scorpion 1.6 roller rockers Edelbrock Performer RPMII intake, minor port/polish job Edelbrock 94/95 elbow minor port/polish Edelbrock 70mm TB Trickflow valve covers w/ remote breather system Custom alternator bracket Ford racing hi volume water pump Siemens 60lb/hr injectors Aermotive rails and boost reference regulator MSD pro billet distributor NGK V power plugs, taylor wires with heat jackets McLeod Twin disc clutch (1200hp capable, yet still streetable) SCT BA2400 MAF and SCT chip TUNED BY BOB KURGAN HP performance stage 2 turbo kit, 66mm holset turbo, modified exhaust crossover with stainless flex joint, all piping VHT flameproof primed, painted black, satin cleared, then wrapped with DEI header wrap Hallman boost controller VS racing turbo blanket Custom y-pipe to exhaust more info here: 1979-1995 mustang turbo system The car has all functioning accessories besides the smog system, thats been long gone and runs a shorter belt. The A/C functions great and I made custom a/c lines that route to the driver's side to get away from the turbo and clean things up. All brackets and front drive accessories are included. I'm sure I'm missing some stuff from the list that I can add later. Realistically, I've got about $20k tied up here. I have every receipt for this car in a folder, I'm just scared to total them up and see what I actually have into it all. :eeek: There are the numbers, back a few years ago it made 614hp/657tq to the tire through a TKO 600 and a ford 9". Please keep in mind I still had issues on the dyno that I addressed and have done more mods since then (porting/polishing intake). The biggest change since the dyno was the better ignition system. The NGK plugs and taylor wires made a big difference from the stuff I was running on the dyno. Also I currently use a MSD digital 6 which is a noticeable step up from the 6AL that it was tuned with. I'm confident it would go lay down 650hp/700tq no problem right now. I sat down and designed this motor with Tom @ DSS back in 2007 and he told me the motor could handle 1000hp all day long under the right conditions. The CR is 8.8:1. The wastegate has a 10 lb spring in it and the hallman mbc can take it up from there. I typically ran 10-12 psi all the time. The dyno runs were with about 15 psi and a mix of 93 and 100 pump gas. When I take it to the drag strip, I run 12-15 psi with a 93/100 octane mix. I basically just fill the tank with 100, but its not an empty tank so its a mix. The SCT flip chip has a street tune, and a race tune that doesn't pull timing as IATs increase. Only use the race tune when you are at a track running 100 octane and give the motor time to cool down. Every car has some issues: 1. The drivers side valve cover fitting for the remote breather system just started to leak oil. I'd probably recommend modifying these valve covers with new fittings or using different valve covers with your own preferred breather setup. 2. I've been getting a coolant seepage running down the bellhousing. Pressure tested fine, but I've been hesitant to put dye in it because dye is such a mess. I'm pretty sure is either a water pump or timing cover gasket seepage. You can read up on the forums and find this alot, the coolant runs down the head/block mating surface to the back of the motor and down the bellhousing. The motor has about 1500 street miles on it and about 8-10 passes at the track. Two track days at the road course neither were a full day due to alternator problems. $12,500 for the complete turn-key setup. PM me with offers for specific parts and I may part it out instead. Keep in mind the turn-key setup includes the harness, custom aluminum radiator, all belt driven accessories, poly motor mounts, etc. I'd also consider LSX trades, but it would have to be a pretty stout setup similar to what I have now. Here are current pics taken an hour ago. My apologies for the dust, dirt, and corrosion on the engine. The car has been sitting for a while in storage and I haven't cleaned it up in a while. PM me if you have any special picture requests and I can take them for you.