Ultra-Budget Performance Ideas

Aftrbrnr

Whitey cashier gave me the wrong change at the sup
Founding Member
Feb 19, 2000
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Canaduh
When I first got my car, it was slow and it ran 16.3s. With money and time, I have managed to drop about one second off and it now runs about 15.3s with the best of a 15 flat (literally, at 15.000). Last summer, I got drag radials with hopes I would finally bust into the 14s, but that didn't happen.

A note about my situation: I go to school, and can only work four months of the year that I'm off. I should note not all my money can go into my car, so things as just heads or a tranny swap are currently out of the question. I should also note I never grew up in a mechnically inclined family thus I don't have the tools or skills to really do mods. Thus, another large chunk goes to shops to install my parts, even stuff like a cat-back system or pullies.

I've come up with a list of stuff I can mostly afford with my summer's work and hope I can at least run consistent mid-14s at least.

High-Stall Torque Converter: Considering I run consitent 15.3s now, this might be the key. My 60fts aren't great for my car, usually around 2.3 to 2.5 seconds.

Rear-Control Arms: Once again, hopefully those will help but I can't see them lower E.T.s that much but some what helping with the 60ft times.

Thorttle Body: For a stock engine car, hopefully 65mm might do something, maybe 70 mm.

A list of previous mods and what they've done:

1992 Ford Mustang LX 5.0 Convertible: An AOD car, first ran 16.3s when I got it. After getting used to the car and some slightly better driving, I finally got it down to 15.7.

BBK Under-drive Pullies: I put these on the car before I went to the track. This is when I first ran a 16.3, who knows what this car would've ran without the pullies.

Cold-Air: Didn't really do jack.

Magna-Flow Cat-Back Exhaust System: I didn't expect this one to do much either, but I managed to shave 2-tenths of a second off and run 15.5

FRPP 3.73 gears: Finally mananged to get a new low of 15.3 with these, I guess the gears were good for another 2-tenths.

Mickey Thompson Drag Radials: On a race night when they had traction compound, I managed to hit that 15.000. Now, I run conistent 15.3s with a few 15.4s. Prior to my drag radials, my E.T.s fluctuated between 15.3 and 15.7.

A note on track conditions: Most drivers tell me my local track is fairly crappy, and that other tracks I can run about .3 to half-a-second faster so in fact I might actually have a 14-second car. Oh, MPHs range from high 80 MPH to the low 90 MPH range.
 
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This is what I have done recently


70mm TB polished PP=5 bucks (I bought a set of tires from 88GTtreetrod for 75 and I had 4 20s I told him tonot worry bout the change lol he was given me the damn TB!!)
65mm EGR (I gave it a lil porting tomatch)= free Wythors sent it to me for free, he even paid shipping!!!
Explorer upper and lower=100bucks I bought a explorer motor and parted it out
70MM maf= 20 bucks pulled froma lincoln towncar at the pull a part.
I spent a total of 125 bucks and freed up my whole intake tract, I am gettin restricted bad by the e7s though

So I'd say a cobra intake is roughly 350, TB andEGR about 210, MAF about 170 depending. I'dsay I came out pretty well!

Also did my Electric fan for about 75 bucks.

Edit: well I also bought the 255 lph, an a9l, and the NOS!!!for a total of roughly $585

My combo should be good for 13.7 or so if I can launch decently and low low 12s on 150 shot, maybe better
 
You dont haft to have a mechanical back ground to work on a car.(but it helps) Buy a chiltons and read very carfully before you start your projects and you can accomplish anything. If you get hung up on something, thats why we all gather here. Collectivly the members of this site have done it all. As far as your car goes the three biggest gains I had with a aod were: 1. 4.10s 2. shift kit 3. 3000 stahl converter. You can do them all on your own in one weekend. A basic craftsman mechanics toolset is about $200. It is a great investment and will save you a fortune.
 
to feel really a noticeable gains you will need a converter and gears, shirt kit or valve body, and a nice hci combo, thats the first thing I would do really if you lived
closer we would have that done in a days work!!

You NEED to know how to work on the thing or you will get raped with a telephone pole on the prices!! The best teacher is experience, ive had people tell me things as well that have helped, basically surround yourself with good info and you will never go wrong!!
 
On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...

Gears - 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle - disc brakes and 3.55 or 3.73 gears in one package for $125-$300. Add another $100-$200 or so to complete the brake upgrade.

94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a flange adapter to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1 *2

95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.

3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$120. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.

Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.

Aluminum driveshaft: (courtesy of shawn13) It needs to be from a 92-93-94 Aerostar AWD and you will need the u-joint, part #353 from NAPA. It should bolt right up after the u-joint swap.

*1.) A metal flange adapter is available from: http://www.kustomz.com/cat3.html . Buy the TR70 for $44.95.

*2.) MAF & sensor interchange
The 94-95 Mustang 5.0 MAF & sensor is also found on:
1995-94 Mustang 3.8L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Crown Victoria 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1995-94 Mustang, Mustang Cobra 5.0L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Town Car 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Grand Marquis 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
The A2A, AA, AB, etc, on the end of the part number are minor changes that do not affect the calibration.