Unisteer Rack & Pinion

John,
I do have another pan for an old Mustang in storage and it looks identical, so I don't think that is the issue. I am going to end up cutting the pan to make this thing fit, but I am waiting for someone else to get the unit installed and see if they have the same issues. I appreciate everyones help on this board, you are all a wealth of knowledge and information.
 
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SnakeStang65 said:
Photos will help a bunch.

Being an EFI engine out of a 92, I am wondering if you have some strange, non stock (for a 68) oil pan.


I could be wrong, but I thought the EFI motors in Fox bodies are rear sump pans? The shape is the same, but the deep part of the pan is in the rear of the motor instead of the front? Anyone know? :shrug:

If I get a chance this week I take some pics of the rack and post them. My car doesn't have an engine yet so I'm not sure about the pan clearance issue.
 
unrealmach1 said:
I could be wrong, but I thought the EFI motors in Fox bodies are rear sump pans? The shape is the same, but the deep part of the pan is in the rear of the motor instead of the front? Anyone know? :shrug:
You are correct. However, in order to get this motor in an early mustang the oil pan needs to be changed to a front sump which probably has already occured to get his motor in.
 
heh pics. well I have found the ol dig camera, and my parts from Open tracker showed up today. Going to get with my shop guy, and I will probaly start install this weekend, if not sooner. Been hella busy with work, but I will try to get the pics up tonight on how the product looks, and I will be pic/doc the install as I do for all my stuff..just incase i ever need to do it again. Hopefully I will be up and running by sunday.
 
Any chance you could measure the total rack movement?

I'm interested to see how close it is to stock.
If you turn the rack all the way to one side, and lay a tape measure next to the tie rod, then turn it all the way the other direction, and look how many inches that covers, is what I am interested in knowing. Also how many turns lock to lock would be great information as well.
Thanks!
 
66Runt said:
I'm interested to see how close it is to stock.
If you turn the rack all the way to one side, and lay a tape measure next to the tie rod, then turn it all the way the other direction, and look how many inches that covers, is what I am interested in knowing. Also how many turns lock to lock would be great information as well.
Thanks!
My buddy John (SnakeStang65) called and talked with Unisteer the other day and then called me to discuss. This rack has only 3.5 turns lock to lock and only 6 inches of travel. It is about an inch short of full lock to lock steering on a 65/66.
 
That would be less than the TCP or Randalls, by 3/8"

So the turning radius is going to be even worse.
Now why would they do that? :mad: turning will be slow too. This rack may be a good candidate for an inboard mounted bump steer kit, if the car is lowered to the correct point. That would pick up some turning radius, and bring the steering response back. It just sucks that you have to set your ride height to adjust for bumpsteer though.

Ronstang, any update on yours?
 
Ronstang said:
My buddy John (SnakeStang65) called and talked with Unisteer the other day and then called me to discuss. This rack has only 3.5 turns lock to lock and only 6 inches of travel. It is about an inch short of full lock to lock steering on a 65/66.

Ron,

Thanks for the borrow on the Flaming River (FR) 16:1 box. Just for reference, the FR box was 4 turns lock to lock. When installed on my car with the Granada spindles, wheel lock to lock was exactly 3 turns.

SOTP Review of the FR box: The FR box is very smooth and uniform over the entire travel. The effort at stop is stiff, but not much more than my stock box due to the roughness of the stock 22:1 box. (keep in mind that I have 225 tires on the front) The steering effort at speed is mild. The quickness of the box makes the car much more enjoyable to drive. Overall, the steering is quick and responsive with a small increase in effort. No decease in turning radius.

Still waiting on the Unisteer rack. Once it arrives, I will post up pictures and review of install with overall comparison.
 
OK, I finally got it in and working. I had to dent the oil pan big time, but it works. My shorty headers don't fit, so I guess its time for hooker competition. The steering radius is slighly less, the steering limit stop on the strut rod is about an 1/8" from hitting the spindle when full over, so I don't think it is too bad. It feels really good parked, I am picking up the headers today and hopefully have it back on the road by late this week. I also had to call unisteer to order another dd shaft since I had cut mine to move the rack over. They sent me another one no charge. Thats customer service.
 
68efisuper said:
OK, I finally got it in and working. I had to dent the oil pan big time, but it works. My shorty headers don't fit, so I guess its time for hooker competition. The steering radius is slighly less, the steering limit stop on the strut rod is about an 1/8" from hitting the spindle when full over, so I don't think it is too bad. It feels really good parked, I am picking up the headers today and hopefully have it back on the road by late this week. I also had to call unisteer to order another dd shaft since I had cut mine to move the rack over. They sent me another one no charge. Thats customer service.


Pics, dammit, pics!
 
Sorry for no pictures, I will have some tomorrow. Now for the next issue, the new headers will work with the R&P, but I now have major issues with clearance on the clutch cable with the long tube headers. I am about ready to put the stock steering back in, but I have already modified the steering column. HELP, any ideas.
 
68efisuper said:
Sorry for no pictures, I will have some tomorrow. Now for the next issue, the new headers will work with the R&P, but I now have major issues with clearance on the clutch cable with the long tube headers. I am about ready to put the stock steering back in, but I have already modified the steering column. HELP, any ideas.

Which headers?

I have the Hooker Comps using the late model cable clutch. It will work, but it is not a straight shot. I had to make a small bracket to hold the cable towards the driver side so the cable could duck in between the pairs of tubes to get to the bell housing. The cable is a tight fit, but it works and has for the last year...

John