Using a 93 Cobra MAF on a 91 GT???

not to hijack, but a move up to 24lb injectors regardless of which MAF requires a tune??

You can use 24's without a custom tune/chip if you the 93 Cobra MAF *and* EEC together. The 93 Cobra EEC is setup for 24's and the 93 Cobra MAF.

In fact, that's the setup I suggest to people that have 24's. Also, you can still use a ProM or PMAS MAF as long as you tell them to set the MAF to the 93 Cobra calibration.
 
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If I understand correctly, you would be the same either way, the meters do the same thing and send the same voltage to the ECU. It's all in the way the ECU responds to the voltage. In this case, you would be flowing slightly more air and cause a lean condition b/c the computer would not respond to the additional air correctly b/c it's getting a voltage signal that corresponds to a 55MM volume of air instead of 70MM. If you're getting a dyno tune with it, you'll be fine but it sounds like it will be pointless if the sampling tube in the cobra MAF is as big as what they're saying.
It has nothing to do with the size of the MAF. It's all about how the electronics are custom tuned at the factory.

And, you NEVER EVER swap electronics among MAFs - NEVER! That's asking for problems. It may work, or it may not. Kinda like playing Russian Roulette.

BTW: C&L is a joke - it's NOT a real MAF - it's a JOKE. Don't even talk about a C&L unless you have a Tweecer RT and are willing to spend ~80 hours custom tuning the software to that POS MAF. Even then, you'd have a POS MAF that is NOT consistent over varying conditions (temp, air pressure, etc).

BTW#2: If you think you can design a real-life MAF and real-life electronics that do NOT need the electronics to be custom tuned, then get off your rear, patent it and become a zillion-air. :)

Also, having the incorrect or a POS MAF on a car gets involved. It's not a simple "more/less air" and screwed up A/F. The EEC will TRY to adjusts it's trim tables to have the incorrect MAF match the O2 feedback. At the same time, the trim will be bouncing all over the place. The MAF is needed when you accel/decel. So, you can become lean on ANY accel/decel if the incorrect MAF is used.

If the EEC can not adjust the trim to get the A/F in line, then the EEC goes into failure mode, goes PIG RICH, and maps out the MAF as being bad.


In short, do not screw around with the MAF! :)
 
It has nothing to do with the size of the MAF. It's all about how the electronics are custom tuned at the factory.

And, you NEVER EVER swap electronics among MAFs - NEVER! That's asking for problems. It may work, or it may not. Kinda like playing Russian Roulette.

BTW: C&L is a joke - it's NOT a real MAF - it's a JOKE. Don't even talk about a C&L unless you have a Tweecer RT and are willing to spend ~80 hours custom tuning the software to that POS MAF. Even then, you'd have a POS MAF that is NOT consistent over varying conditions (temp, air pressure, etc).

BTW#2: If you think you can design a real-life MAF and real-life electronics that do NOT need the electronics to be custom tuned, then get off your rear, patent it and become a zillion-air. :)

Also, having the incorrect or a POS MAF on a car gets involved. It's not a simple "more/less air" and screwed up A/F. The EEC will TRY to adjusts it's trim tables to have the incorrect MAF match the O2 feedback. At the same time, the trim will be bouncing all over the place. The MAF is needed when you accel/decel. So, you can become lean on ANY accel/decel if the incorrect MAF is used.

If the EEC can not adjust the trim to get the A/F in line, then the EEC goes into failure mode, goes PIG RICH, and maps out the MAF as being bad.


In short, do not screw around with the MAF! :)


Soooo... what is your reccomendation O Master of the Meter? :hail2: ;)

but for real what is a good meter to use
 
Again thanks for all of your help guys... :hail2:

What I'm getting is that it's not worth the trouble of even changing out the MAF, with just bolt-on's. And that either way I go, the pairing is not plug and play with any aftermarket/upgraded MAF?!? Just want to make sure I am completely clear...:nice:

Justin
:stupid:
 
Soooo... what is your reccomendation O Master of the Meter? :hail2: ;)

but for real what is a good meter to use

Like Shakerhood said, get the Ford OEM 70mm MAFs. And, do NOT use a foolish cone filter that sucks in the HOT engine bay air.

If you want, you can go with *either* a ProM or PMAS MAF. But, I would recommend *against* getting either of the low-end MAF versions from either company. They are fine, but just not as accurate as their mid-range+ versions. IMHO, the low-end versions are a total waste unless you *need* a scaled MAF to allow for max air flow (i.e. HP) for your combo. That's compared to the 70mm 93 Cobra MAF (for people with 24's *and* a 93 Cobra EEC), or the 94/95 sn95 Stang GT 70mm MAF that has the same transfer function as the "Stang Fox" MAF (needs a 70mm sq to round adapter for the front).
 
Again thanks for all of your help guys... :hail2:

What I'm getting is that it's not worth the trouble of even changing out the MAF, with just bolt-on's. And that either way I go, the pairing is not plug and play with any aftermarket/upgraded MAF?!? Just want to make sure I am completely clear...:nice:
For a Stang with 19's, going to the 94/95 Stang 70MM MAF is, IMHO, a good choice! You'll pick up a _few_ HP. And, it's cheap and Ford OEM quality. Also, it's a more accurate design than the Fox MAF. For the cost of the MAF (cheap - check ebay, junk yards, classifieds) and a 70mm square to round adapter (?$30?), it's a cheap a good mod.

I've used the 94/95 MAF, and many people use it without any problems. Now, I like the Ford 90mm LMAF the best - rock solid performance and accuracy. But, that requires a chip or Tweecer to use.
 
maf's in general are not plug and play. first off take aftermarket like pro-m so many people ahve problems with them because one they dont get a tune and second the factory tunes them well at the factory and not in your car and 99% of the time they run rich. most of the time on a car with very mild mods and mild mods are exhaust, intakes and even throttle bodies don't need a jump to a bigger maf and if they did need a change you would want gains over what you currentally have. major mods are like cams, heads even ported stockers etc that would need more air and fuel. don't be fooled by the cobra's larger bore size and I'm not nocking totally the cobra unit it works well for the cobra but it is flawed, it has built in restriction in it's air path which nets only a small gain over the stock h.o maf, not worth it. Tuning your car now will tell you where you are at and where you need to go down the road and what options are needed, a good tuner can also tell if the maf is choking your current set up and then go with the 94-95 maf. switching the sensors over like you asked that is mounted on the maf is a nono, they are a tuned pair, the stock h.o sensor mounted on a cobra maf is doomed failure. go for the tune first and see what you got or get the 94-95 maf and get that tuned, but what ever you do I would have the any maf tuned rather than hope the computer is optimizing the #'s from the new maf, better to get the most out of it. best of luck.