*VERY* dissapointed with my new FRPP King Cobra clutch

Craig Mack

Busted Buffing the Bishop
Founding Member
Mar 9, 2002
801
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Lake Mary, FL
First clutch replacement was a Spec Stage I. Chatter came not only from the clutch (expected) but THROUGH the pedal, and I could feel a grinding sensation. When I drove it out of the transmission shop, it grabbed/clamped HARD and INSTANTLY. I LOVED it. Around 250 miles of owning that clutch, I made the mistake of driving briskly with it -- I couldn't contain myself. I ripped through a few shifts several times. After that, it all went downhill. I babyed it for the next thousand miles, but the clutch was already dead. When they took it out, it was burned up pretty bad, along with the flywheel.

So, my mistake for getting brisk with it a little early, but the pedal vibration was driving me insane, and I was dissapointed that the clutch itself didn't hold up better.

So, being out a clutch just after a month or two, it was time to put in a new one. I bought an FRPP King Cobra clutch -- Not the "imitation kind", the "real" one. The one that Steeda sells on their site for $225 + shipping. I got it for $190 shipped through a friend, which I was told was a great deal. When it arrived, it said "Ford Racing" on the box, but also had a little stamp that said valeo, which kind of p!ssed me off. I wondered if there is any difference between King Cobra clutches at all. I pulled the clutch out and the material on the clutch felt like plastic and was really thin. I was assured that the way the material looks or feels doesnt mean anything however.

So, install time. My flywheel was resurfaced again, and the clutch was installed along with a Steeda Firewall Quadrant adjuster. The car to this day has ZERO vibration/chatter coming from the pedal, although the clutch chatters to an extent.

Anyways, I promised myself I would baby the HELL out of this clutch. First thoughts on the clutch is that it feels very weak. The shifts are super smooth, and you cant even feel the clutch engage sometimes. This is nice for daily driving, but eery becuase it feels very soft and smooshy as if it would choke under high rpm shifts. Anyways, for the first 660 miles I never took it over 3300rpm, and made sure to GRADUALLY release the clutch on shifts, and never downshift. It was nerve racking and annoying, but I MADE SURE it was babyed to kingdom come. At 680 miles, on the way back from the beach, I was itching to test it out some, and GENTLY downshifted into 3rd gear to pass someone. I took it to about 6000rpm, and it shifted crisply and fast. I was happy. For the next 230 miles, I went back to original form, babying the sin out of it, keeping it under 3300rpm, and shifting like a grandma. Then, around 890 miles, I romped on it from a 1st gear dig and shifted into second at about 6600rpm. The tires squeeled and it clamped hard. A shift into 3rd at 6000rpm brought more bark from the tires, and the clutch had ZERO slip. Then, I decided to baby it for another 120 miles. Well, with about 1060 miles on it, I once again romped on it. This time, the 1-2 shift felt SUPER weak. It felt very gooey and didnt clamp with any sort of force. So as I get on the highway, I slip it down into 4th around 70mph and mashed the gas. The clutch slipped a bit at first but then bucked me forward. I was extremely p!ssed.

To make sure this wasnt just a fluke, I tried a few more of these simple, yet aggressive runs today, and the clutch felt equally as weak. Engagements under normal driving feel HORRIBLE. It once again feels like Im shifting a kleenex tissue, it is EERILY smooth. I'm not talking about the light pedal feel BTW, rather that the clutch itself feels like its slipping under engagements, it just feels like jello.

So here I sit with another potential clutch problem, except this time its not my fault. I cannot afford to go through this process again, and I think if I have to break another clutch in its going to drive me INSANE.

I am extremely dissatisfied with this POS clutch. I had an ACT street disc made of organic materials in my Maxima. That clutch sells for around $320 (got it for $260 at cost), but there is much less aftermarket for the Maxima. That clutch held 10psi of Vortech V1 boost remarkably for 20,000+ miles and never once slipped. It clamped VERY hard and took all my abuse. I broke this clutch with less babying then the King Cobra, yet it took my abuse day in and day out. The clutch itself was touchy for daily driving, and was hard to shift butter smooth, but this way I KNEW that it was doing its job and would never fail on me at WOT shifts.

Anyways, I just want to share my experience with everyone to avoid this ***** clutch. If you have any comments or advice for me, or want to share a similer story, please do. I expected a strong clutch, being that its rated at 400tq, but I guess you STILL get what you pay for, even though the aftermarket for this car is much bigger then my previous one.
 
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i really don't know what else to say, but, damn..........i haven't had to replace my clutch yet, but when i do, bet your bippy it won't be a king cobra.....i heard a similar story from the guys at my shop about this clutch..
 
blew mine up. Shop guy said it was a "NASCAR" clutch and that it would handle 1000 hp easy. They put it in when I bought the car, so I knew nothing about cars then being only 15. I was just acc. hard with some friends in the car, shifted at 5500. When I pounded the clutch in to shift to 2nd WA BOOOMM. There is much more to my clutch story. Some day I will post it. All in all I have had 7 clutches in my car. 6 of them before any heavy mods. #7 was a centerforce dual friction and I never looked back. I love my clutch now.
 
I have run three different clutches a ram HD in my old 91 5.0, a zoom kevlar clutch in my 88 which I love, and a king cobra in my 96. I have personally had no problems with my king cobra clutch and it has seen plenty of abuse from my 96 shifting at 7k. Since you do have a firewall adjuster on your car I would try adjusting the clutch cable, possibly it just needs to be adjusted.
 
5.0's 4 ever said:
Since you do have a firewall adjuster on your car I would try adjusting the clutch cable, possibly it just needs to be adjusted.

I know that the shop used the STOCK cable, not the one that came with the Steeda. They INSISTED that the stock one is more durable and is made better. Does this mean I won't be able to adjust it?

And if I can and did, how would this make a differece in if the clutch slips under hard throttle applications?
 
Sorry to hear about your clutch whoas man. These things seem to vary so much from person to person. When my Spec Stage II was put in a couple weeks ago, I was told I could drive it normaly, just no taching it up and sidestepping the clutch. I was even told by Spec that its fine to take it up to 4000+rpm and shift :shrug: . I only did that a couple times though during the 500 mile break in... well who am I kidding. With like 250 miles on the clutch I was nailing it to almost 5000 with a buddy of mine in the car. Clutch bit great, and felt super smooth. It still feels great and I have close to 1000 miles on it. I was scared I might have messed it up nailing it that early but it seems perfectly fine, no bucking under acc in any gear so far.
I have heard nothing but :notnice: about the King Cobra though. Only gripe I have about my Spec is the TOB sounds like crap warmed over when I first start the car. I was told it can take anywhere from 2000-4000 miles for the TOB to get broken in by Spec :rolleyes: . I dont really buy that one, but I can deal with a noisy tob if the clutch keeps biting like it does. Go back to a Spec man :nice:
 
damn...good thing i read this thread. I'm trying to decide which clutch I want to put in my car when I do my 5 speed swap.

Although, a good friend of mine has a king cobra in his supercharged cobra with 523rwhp 420rwtq and loves his and does PLENTY if high rpm shifting. Hmm...seems like all clutch companies have all these different hit and miss stories from everyone.
 
I had a King Cobra in my previous 5.0. That car was pushing 9psi of boost from a Kenne Bell and never let up. I did break one clutch cable though.. maybe that shop was right about the stock cable.
On my 4.6, I had a stock replacement clutch put in and never broke it in. I stepped on occasionally as if nothing was changed. I did notice after getting the car back that the friction point was close to the top of the pedal though. If I still have the car when/if this clutch goes bad, I'm thinking of going to a Centerforce.
 
Craig Mack said:
I know that the shop used the STOCK cable, not the one that came with the Steeda. They INSISTED that the stock one is more durable and is made better. Does this mean I won't be able to adjust it?

And if I can and did, how would this make a differece in if the clutch slips under hard throttle applications?

Let me get this right......you have a firewall adjuster,yet you don't know if you can adjust your clutch because you have a stock cable? If you have a firewall adjuster,that's all you need to adjust your clutch properly. Please get someone to help you, that has adjusted a clutch before or you will need a replacement clutch soon. Also if you don't have an aluminium quadrant , you need one. The KC clutch is a good solid piece and should hold up well in a N/A car. Mine has :D

Jay
 
bummer. i hope it's just an adjustment issue.

when i bought my 1995 gt (2 weeks ago), the guy said it has a king cobra clutch, but i asked my mechanic to check it out because it is so much stiffer than the one in my 1996. he says he thinks it is a centerforce because of the way it feels. :shrug:

back on topic, i have read more than a couple times that re-surfacing the flywheel is not a good idea. the people i have read recommend replacing it over re-surfacing it, but i am not clear on exactly why. when my clutch goes, i plan on getting an aluminum flywheel and an aluminum driveshaft at the same time.
 
Man sorry to hear that, I have had a Ford Racing King Cobra Clutch for about 25k miles and have nothing but great times with it. Medium to hard driving all the time. Now my jeep clutch that is a different story, my damn throwout bearing went out in less then 3k miles.
 
The only problems i have heard really about clutchs have been the spec I and the king cobra. I know this is probably a stupid question but could you put a spec II in car that is mostly stock? I have some major plans over the summer but i would like to get a clutch prior to longtubes. Thanks
 
Warbird19 said:
I have a spec stage one clutch and hate the effort it takes to drepess the pedal, how did the KC clutch compare to the spec.

Pedal effort is SIGNIFICANTLY lighter on the King Cobra versus the spec. Keep in mind I didnt have the Steeda Adjustable Quad with the Spec though, don't know if that makes a difference.

The friend who got me my deal on my King Cobra has ran two of them, and has had no problems with them, and thinks its an adjustment issue.

I am going to call my shop first thing when I wake up tommorow and let you guys know how things go, and give everyone an update.
 
We got hosed

Currently, I have a Ford Racing " Heavy Duty" clutch, or whatever they call it, installed. I bought the clutch kit for like $160, and dropped it and my car off at afriend's place while i went to work. A few hours later I got a cal at work: "dude, this new clutch is exactly the same as the stock one." The " heavy duty" kit had the EXACT SAME part numbers on the clutch disc and pressure plate as the ones that were being replaced (because they sucked!) I was pissed! The King cobra kit uses the same clutch disc, but a "more advanced" pressure plate. So, basically, you and I both upgraded to a stock clutch. :notnice:
 
BTW: it's not an adjustment issue. The clutch sucks. period. I mean, My stock clutch slipped real bad on the 2-3 shift. Everyonce and a while I break loose in 3rd instead of just hearing the clutch scream. Why would the heavy duty or king cobra perfor any better considering they use the same ****ch disc?