Voltage Jumping Around - Signals Blinking Slow

I noticed lately that my 93 hatch will be running fine and holding at a voltage of around 14.4. Then for no reason it will jump all the way down to around 11.5 then after a few mintues will jump back. It is erratic and random. I noticed that if I use my turn signals when the voltage is at the low point, they blink real slow. Also I see a small drop in fuel pressure during this time. Then it will jump back up and stay for a while before dropping again.

I'm thinking bad ground somewhere. But seeing as there are a million ground points and connections...where should I start? Anyone had this problem before?

Thanks
Randy
 
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Grounds
Grounds are important to any electrical system, and especially to computer controlled engines. In an automobile, the ground is the return path for power to get back to the alternator and battery.

1.) The main power ground is from engine block to battery: it is the power ground for the starter & alternator.


2.) The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges.

Any car that has a 3G or high output current alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects. The 3G has a 130 amp capacity, so you wire the power side with 4 gauge wire. It stands to reason that the ground side handles just a much current, so it needs to be 4 gauge too.

The picture shows the common ground point for the battery , computer, & extra 3G alternator ground wire as described above in paragraph 2. A screwdriver points to the bolt that is the common ground point.

The battery common ground is a 10 gauge pigtail with the computer ground attached to it.
Picture courtesy timewarped1972
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Correct negative battery ground cable.
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3.) The computer has its own dedicated power ground that comes off the ground pigtail on the battery ground wire. Due to its proximity to the battery, it may become corroded by acid fumes from the battery.
In 86-90 model cars, it is a black cylinder about 2 1/2" long by 1" diameter with a black/lt green wire.
In 91-95 model cars it is a black cylinder about 2 1/2" long by 1" diameter with a black/white wire.
You'll find it up next to the starter solenoid where the wire goes into the wiring harness.


4.) All the sensors have a common separate ground. This includes the TPS, ACT, EGE, BAP, & VSS sensors.

5.) The O2 sensor heaters have their own ground (HEGO ground) coming from the computer. This is different and separate from the O2 sensor ground. It is an orange wire with a ring terminal on it. It is located in the fuel injector wiring harness and comes out under the throttle body. It gets connected to a manifold or bolt on back of the cylinder head.

6.) The TFI module has 2 grounds: one for the foil shield around the wires and another for the module itself. The TFI module ground terminates inside the computer.

7.) The computer takes the shield ground for the TFI module and runs it from pin 20 to the chassis near the computer.

8.) The computer's main power ground (the one that comes from the battery ground wire) uses pins 40 & 60 for all the things it controls internally.


See http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/automotive/beatbook.pdf for help for help troubleshooting voltage drops across connections and components. .

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Extra grounds are like the reserve parachute for a sky diver. If the main one fails, there is always your reserve.

The best plan is to have all the grounds meet at one central spot and connect together there. That eliminates any voltage drops from grounds connected at different places. A voltage drop between the computer ground and the alternator power ground will effectively reduce the voltage available to the computer by the amount of the drop.
 
Well I have a lot to do. This is gonna suck.

As far as the the alternator going bad, I would think that is unlikely because the voltage drops below 12v. With just the key on, it sits around 12.5v. Wouldn't it get a minimum of 12v with a bad alternator?
 
Have you done the voltage drop testing of connections and grounds as described in my first post to your problem? If there are any problems with bad connections, this will find them.
 
All the grounds tested ok. I cleaned them all with a wire brush anyways. Still doing it, but its getting worse. Today it started jumping up too, not just down. It hit 16.5 for a brief second then dropped. Then it happened a few more times. I put a new serpentine belt on it just in case the old one was slipping (it was kinda old). No change. Sometimes if I rev the engine real quick it goes up, but not always.
 
Mine is inside the case of the alternator. I sent an email to Powermaster to check if it is still under warranty. I ordered a replacement from Summit in the meantime. I got the polished one. My current one is black powdercoated. It doesn't look right under there. I'll probably have the regulator replaced and sell it.