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Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by InMyPrimeSVT, May 13, 2012.
Post a picture of your dyno sheet? What are your impressions of it?
How much torque?? And yeah the heat kills timing. It seems to be the norm now for tuners to have the computer pulls massive amounts of timing when the air heats up. Sounds like you need a meth injection kit like I do. Your car made 8 more HP at the wheels than mine and my car has a bone stock GT long block! Yours should have made more I think.
What were the ambient temps?
Yep I'll post a picture as soon as I get it. Ambient temp was 75. But muggy as hell, I dont know if that plays into it. I actually really loved it. Hearing that thing rip on the dyno in the garage was an adrenaline shot to the heart.
Have you had a chance to drive it?
They are keeping it to run it on the road today, but then hopefully I'll get it back soon to play. Now of course will come the debate in my head if I should swap out the heads/cam/intake.
To be honest your heads/cam/intake aren't what is holding you back right now. It's heat and though h/c/i will make your boost drop slightly (btw what boost did you make peak power at?) you'll still be cramming tons of heat down the throat of that motor. The timing retard is killing your power. Before H/C/I I'd suggest a meth injection system. It will increase your octane and lower your charge temp allowing more timing to be used. Each degree of timing increase that you can safely use will equal a ton more power.
To put it in prospective my old 95 GT with pretty much the same combo I have now laid down 425 to the wheels. It was a very cold winter day when I did that so the charge temps where much cooler. On that dyno run the motor realized 20* of timing. Fast forward to my existing combo it was hot outside and it only put down 370 max with a 350 average. Timing was down to 13-14* due to the 200*+ charge temps. So you see retarding the timing can cost a lot of power, so fixing that should be your first priority over changing your motor's top end. Besides, a Snow meth kit is only 300 bucks. Much cheaper than a new top end.
Hp addiction is a serious condition.
That is cheaper by a ton. I don't know anything about meth. So can you still run pump gas on the car?
Yes, you still run pump gas with methanol. If you don't drive the car all that often, consider running 110 octane racing gas.
Pump gas is fine. The meth injection actually raises your octane level and with it's cooling effect allows you to run much more timing without fear of detonation. Your tuner will have to put it back on the dyno to tune for the meth injection but even a retune + the meth kit will still be a fraction of the cost of a new top end kit.
I'm planning to do the same myself before I step into building a new engine. And when I do that I'm either going to a dart/boss block or a windsor. I'm not wasting money building a stock block 302 that will be in block splitting territory!
Mr. Freeze meth kits are pretty inexpensive.
I've heard negatives about the Mr. Freeze kits though. I think they put their nozzle before the blower and some say that's not a good thing.
Nozzle closer to the TB is where the power is using Meth. Remember PopsFun took Rick and I suggest and moved the nozzle up further in the line and it picked up big time.
I have read conflicting reports of where the optimal location to place the nozzle is. Did PopsFun post the results of his setup?
My tuner told me to simply put the nozzle on the blower where there's a little plug right where the discharge turns toward the t-body.
That is where I was thinking would be a good place for it but the guy who tuned my car told me to put it before the blower and use 100% methanol. That is how he has been installing them since 2005 with allegedly no problems.
2 problems with that. First, the blower is going to just heat the air right back up again. Second, 100% methanol is a bomb and it really isn't as easily available as 50/50 mix. Plus, do you really want some kind of substance hitting your impeller as it's spinning at 50,000 + RPM? I know people get away with it but it just doesn't seem logical to me. Also if you read what others have to say about the Mr. Freeze vs Snow kits you'll see that they don't really like putting it before the blower. I think Pops Fun tried putting the nozzle pre blower and didn't help at all.
Either way, my tuner told me to put it post blower and gave the same reasons I just did. He is one of the best tuners in the country and actually goes around teaching other tuners how to use their SCT software.
There is a lot of contradictory information out there on this issue. The guy who wrote the SCT tuning manual says to inject it before the blower. He is on this forum; maybe we can get him to chime in.
You guys should post up a new thread to see if he chimes in. No way he'll see it buried in here on page 6. I get the car back tomorrow. I'll post up some videos and dyno sheet.
2 hours till I go pick the car up. Cant wait for that drive home on the highway.