Progress Thread Want My 66 On The Dragstrip Asap Need Advice

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Aug 6, 2014
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Was going to be a driver, but events prevented that but changed gears and now i want to make it blaze down the track and don't know the first thing about how to do it. Gotta start somewhere.
 

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Since I know nothing except theory anything would put me ahead of where i am now. I guess to make it less aimless I would like to start at the start. I'll start with where I am. I have the mustang you see there it was for a friend that was suppose to be retiring from the NAVY after i got out so I got it and he was suppose to purchase it from me he backed out on the deal. Anyway it is a 289 but there is a lot of space in there. The body has no rust on it and the interior is solid just a worn spot in the driver seat. anyway I know that 289 can't get down the track so i guess I'd like to ask what should I do first?
 
Since I know nothing except theory anything would put me ahead of where i am now. I guess to make it less aimless I would like to start at the start. I'll start with where I am. I have the mustang you see there it was for a friend that was suppose to be retiring from the NAVY after i got out so I got it and he was suppose to purchase it from me he backed out on the deal. Anyway it is a 289 but there is a lot of space in there. The body has no rust on it and the interior is solid just a worn spot in the driver seat. anyway I know that 289 can't get down the track so i guess I'd like to ask what should I do first?
hello;

it is best if you tell us your goals and answer a few questions.

how much money do you have for the engine and exhaust only?

how fast do you you want to go in the 1/4?

do you want to run race gas at 15.00 a gallon?

will you tun it on the street?

do you want to go 80 on the freewy or do you want a lite to lote drag car or inbetweem.

do you want a bigger engine like a 347 stroker, 351 windsor or 608 stroker etc.?

.
 
I am currently on a limited budget waiting on some things to come into place but the pot is currently building at $100 per week for any thing.
is 10 to 13 feasible as a matter of fact I'm not shooting for anything specific at this time, just want it to be fast enough to take out some of the slower competition until my capital rises some. It can look like a sleeper. Tuning on the street and local track. this car never needs to be on the roads again, and I would progressively like to go to bigger engines.
 
First things first then, you need to get your car to the track for a base line. This will not only get you some immediate experience but will also give you a base line to judge improvements that you've made to the car as you go.
If you have never been to the track before then it might be worthwhile to watch for a night or two. This can give you a good idea as to how things work there. You can watch other cars in the burn out, staging and launching. Once you are ready you will need a helmet and a generally sound (safety wise) car and you will be ready to go. Rome was not built in a day, these things all take time. When you do go, remember that reaction time will not affect your ET (elapsed time). Race your own race and pay no mind to anyone that may be next to you in another lane. This experience is crucial and will build your confidence as you progress. Once you are comfortable with the process and how things work, you can start making changes to your car to increase the HP and ultimately your ET at the track. You will also need to consider a few more things beyond HP, that being the chassis, suspension, rear end, transmission and brakes. As you go faster and faster or make more and more HP you will find yourself needing to upgrade other parts as well. Finding that balance is the tricky part.
Before you start "throwing" parts at any given car, work up a good plan and stick to it. A carefully chosen combination will always work the best! A good run down of parts that you currently have will be a good starting point to help point you in the direction of success!
 
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That isn't an easy question to answer. It more or less will come down to your preference. I prefer automatic transmissions personally, a manual may suit you better. I can't decide that for you. In my opinion a manual will require a much higher proficiency level while racing. Will you stay with your 289 or would you consider swapping the engine? It would also be very helpful to have a firm budget to work against. You have a lot of options. The sky is really endless
 
If I change the engine do I have to change the transmission right away (I am assuming not I only ask though because everything is still original and it may have some unforeseen wear that won't hold up if pushed harder than just driving)? Also all the ford engines I see like the 351 have the years way after 66 like 75-82 will that work or do i need to keep searching for one that says 66?
I'm getting excited, but I want to ask again how do i work up a proper plan? look up the price of an upgrade i comfortable with and try to beat with deal searching?
 
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An ET goal and a $ budget are really to first steps in building a good plan.
As far as the trans goes, it will bolt up to any 289,302 or 351w with no trouble. If it is all original however, it may or may not last long behind any newly acquired HP.
 
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Man, that is such a beautiful original car.
I'll trade you for my '88 hatchback, which is clean and rust - free (it lives in AZ)
The fox body is a much better drag race platform. It's lighter, has a lower center of gravity, much better brakes, and, you can put a 460 in it, without modifying the entire front structure of the car. I also happen to have a 460 and a c-6 automatic. I could assemble it all for you, or, I can deliver the "kit" to you. I have done the 5 lug swap on the front, and have all the parts for the rear 5 lug conversion.
 
I'm getting excited, but I want to ask again how do i work up a proper plan? look up the price of an upgrade i comfortable with and try to beat with deal searching?
.
Determine the approximate total amount if money you have for engine, exhaust and suspension. Suspension and gearing can cost a bit.

The amount of money you have will determine approximately how much RELIABLE horsepower and chassis you will have.

Tell us how much that is and we can suggest various options.
 
Man, that is such a beautiful original car.
I'll trade you for my '88 hatchback, which is clean and rust - free (it lives in AZ)
The fox body is a much better drag race platform. It's lighter, has a lower center of gravity, much better brakes, and, you can put a 460 in it, without modifying the entire front structure of the car. I also happen to have a 460 and a c-6 automatic. I could assemble it all for you, or, I can deliver the "kit" to you. I have done the 5 lug swap on the front, and have all the parts for the rear 5 lug conversion.
The car in the picture looks like mine but the door and stuff are gone
 
The car in the picture looks like mine but the door and stuff are gone

So someone blew your doors off, and hence the call for help? It all becomes clear.......;)

I would still trade you. The '88 makes a much better drag car. With the 460, it's capable of 11s without modification, and 9s with some engine work (heads, etc.) according to Hot Rod Magazine.

Check this thread for some very interesting insight into the mods you are wanting:
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/rediculously-giant-small-block-460-c-i.604922/
 
So someone blew your doors off, and hence the call for help? It all becomes clear.......;)

I would still trade you. The '88 makes a much better drag car. With the 460, it's capable of 11s without modification, and 9s with some engine work (heads, etc.) according to Hot Rod Magazine.

Check this thread for some very interesting insight into the mods you are wanting:
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/rediculously-giant-small-block-460-c-i.604922/
I was talking about your doors, that's yours on your profile pic right?