Progress Thread Want To Blow 4 Years And $40k On A Foxbody? Step By Step Instructions Inside!

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by RacEoHolic330, Nov 14, 2011.


  1. Rick 91GT

    Rick 91GT SN Certified Technician Site Sponsor

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    yeah, you need anything let me know.

    I have a customer with a 80mm COMP, 331, AFR185 makes over 1100rwhp
     
    #61
  2. RacEoHolic330

    RacEoHolic330 I like to dress like a pretty girl SN Certified Technician

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    I saw the dyno video. That's a whole lot of power out of that 331.
     
    #62
  3. 1991notchbackLX

    1991notchbackLX Active Member

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    So with my 88mm, 347, and CNC 225's I should see what... 2,000? :D
     
    #63
  4. RacEoHolic330

    RacEoHolic330 I like to dress like a pretty girl SN Certified Technician

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    If you intercooled that beast you'd probably see 2500hp
     
    #64
  5. RacEoHolic330

    RacEoHolic330 I like to dress like a pretty girl SN Certified Technician

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    Anyone have a link to a nice radiator overflow tank? Id prefer plastic because it will probably be mounted to my Taurus fan shroud.
     
    #65
  6. 1991notchbackLX

    1991notchbackLX Active Member

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    #66
  7. RacEoHolic330

    RacEoHolic330 I like to dress like a pretty girl SN Certified Technician

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    That one is very nice. Pricey, but nice. I'll just need to hunt down an overflow cap I guess.
     
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  8. 1991notchbackLX

    1991notchbackLX Active Member

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    Yeah, it's a nice piece. I plan on running it myself if I ever get my ****box together. FYI you can use the stock cap with this one as well.
     
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  9. RacEoHolic330

    RacEoHolic330 I like to dress like a pretty girl SN Certified Technician

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    Yea, I haven't had a stock cap since I sold my original fan and shroud years ago. There are some available on ebay. Thanks again for the link.

    Btw, found the tank on AmericanMuscle for $100 shipped. Good stuff.
     
    #69
  10. RacEoHolic330

    RacEoHolic330 I like to dress like a pretty girl SN Certified Technician

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    Built the AN lines for my breather setup today. I couldn't find a vented catch can that would serve my purpose so I bought an aluminum can from Jegs and modified it to work. I drilled a 1-3/4" hole in the top of the can and had my welder tig a short section of aluminum pipe in the hole. This gave me a neck to mount an air filter to. He also welded three -12AN bungs on the can for me. It came out nice.
    [​IMG]

    I'll be getting it powdercoated at some point.

    I decided to setup my breather system a little different than most. I'm not going to be using a PCV system so I had a -12 bung welded to the PCV hole in the lower intake in addition to the typical bungs on the valve covers. My theory is that the lifter valley is the best source to evacuate crankcase pressure. This way, the pressure does not need to find it's all the way to the back of the heads and through the valve covers. Most of the pressure will evacuate iself through the lower intake first, and then the rest can find its way to the valve covers. Here's what it all looks like mocked up.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Yes, the can is crooked and a little high. Its not bolted to the firewall yet. I need to get the right size bolts and some spacers to bolt it up. I figured this will be a good spot for the can so I don't have AN lines strung all over the engine bay.

    I also stumbled upon a thread on corral where a guy used aluminum tubing and AN fittings to replace his steel heater tubes. I like the way it looked so I duplicated it. I may need to modify it a bit for the water line feed and return to the turbo.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    #70
    91chp notch likes this.
  11. 1991notchbackLX

    1991notchbackLX Active Member

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    Man, that looks incredible. May I ask what you do for a living? I don't know why, but I always look at the attention to detail people pay and it makes me wonder about how they make their living. I'd say accountant or design engineer based on what I see, haha.
     
    #71
  12. madmike1157

    madmike1157 the humor is still lost on me SN Certified Technician

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    I'm the same way. (Always wondering what people do on here after looking at their work) I am wondering about the engine compartment. It looks like based on your posts that it's been bare metal for some time now. How are you keeping rust from showing up?
     
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  13. RacEoHolic330

    RacEoHolic330 I like to dress like a pretty girl SN Certified Technician

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    Lol. Thanks. I do design work on distribution systems for the power company. Poles, wires, and things like that 12kV and under. My degree is in electrical engineering. I'm seriously looking forward to re-wiring the entire car more than any other aspect of this project.

    As far as the bare metal goes, my garage is attached to my house and is fully insulated with a bedroom above. Never gets below 40 in there even on the coldest winter days. I monitor the humidity as well and kick on a dehumidifier if it gets too high. Never had even the smallest sign of surface rust. A small space heater keeps me warm in there during this time of year. It's actually starting to feel like winter outside now, so the heater will be getting more use.
     
    #73
  14. 1991notchbackLX

    1991notchbackLX Active Member

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    Design engineer, score!!
     
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  15. Rick 91GT

    Rick 91GT SN Certified Technician Site Sponsor

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    Looking good Scott!
     
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  16. RacEoHolic330

    RacEoHolic330 I like to dress like a pretty girl SN Certified Technician

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    Lucky guess! Hah
     
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  17. Rick 91GT

    Rick 91GT SN Certified Technician Site Sponsor

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    Im a Design Engineer as well, really helps at times ;)

    What size hard line did you use on the heater stuff? Ive thought about doing that but the expense has turned me away, customers flip out at the cost of fittings..lol Im working on bending a line up for a SN blower car now, I hate the way Vortech re routes the heater hose, just wish I had brazed a fitting on the water pump or puled the nipple out first.

    Is that a -16an upper hose? It may be a little small depending how much time the car sees on the street...a dual pass radiator may be a good choice if you dont have one.

    FOOD FOR THOUGHT... The breather system, I usually do not put them right over the area of the cylinder head oil drain holes, I was worried it would mess up the fluid dynamics and alter draining? What do you think?
    I usually keep the breather hose on the front on the pass cover and the rear area of the drivers cover (due to clearance on most EFI set-ups), then converge like you do to the can. Ive ended up making quite a few cans when space is tight, then you get exactly what you want. Put a petcock on the bottom if you dont have one or a gate valve, I run a piece of hose off the valve into the the inner fender so I can drain easily.

    Im excited to start mocking my own stuff up, it will be the first time Ive went AN crazy on a Modular..lol

    Who's an bungs did you buy, I got some last week and the alum was freaking dirty as can be, gave me major fits with the TIG, all kind of contamination came out.
     
    #77
  18. RacEoHolic330

    RacEoHolic330 I like to dress like a pretty girl SN Certified Technician

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    The heater lines are 1/2" aluminum with -8 fittings. I used -10 adapters for the hose ends where they will enter the firewall as well as the water pump. I don't remember the exact cost, but it wasn't so high that it made me want to keep the stock heater tubes.

    I'm pretty sure that the weld fittings for the can are from Jegs (their brand). My welder didn't mention any issues with welding them on. He just complained about the anodized finish from the can splattering while he was welding.

    I did think about the rear location of the fittings on the valve covers. I think that with the PCV location doing most of the breathing, there won't be much air turbulance in the valve covers near the oil drains. They are also baffled, so I think that will help (I hope).

    The radiator hose is -16. People have seemed to have no issues with that size line with the 55gpm pumps. My 3.8 taurus fan should also help get the job done. Do you have any links to the double pass radiators? I have an aluminum single core, but I may consider getting a double pass. Not sure if the single core will keep it cool in traffic on a summer day.

    One more question for you... have you plumbed water lines for a ball bearing turbo? Where did you tap your feed and return. I was thinking somewhere on the heater tube lines would be the best place. Maybe even getting one of those t-fittings that tap the rubber lines before they go into the heater core would be the best?
     
    #78
  19. Rick 91GT

    Rick 91GT SN Certified Technician Site Sponsor

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    Yeah anodize or dirt popping off is agravating..lol

    I use www.rondavisradiators.com they can tweak any radiator style they have to your exact needs. With the double pass radiator I have in my customers 93 Cobra turbo it stays cool on 100 degree days, and I have the A/C condenser and Intercooler in front of it. I used a big 16" SPAL fan with a custom alum shroud I built for the radiator and fan.

    I know Ron Davis wanted us to run dual -12 or -16 lines on my fathers 93 when we asked about braided lines and flow. I forgot you had the Meziere, that will help for sure... Are you running a thermo or a washer?

    I haven't done a water cooled turbo set-up to be honest, just oil... you may be able to bring it off the manifold as well, one of the rear ports if you have the space, shouldnt have a huge effect on flow.
     
    #79
  20. RacEoHolic330

    RacEoHolic330 I like to dress like a pretty girl SN Certified Technician

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    Thanks for the link. Ill look into that. I have a 3/4" restrictor in the water neck right now. I'll be using a DCController to control the pump and fan.

    I figured I could use the rear passenger side port in the lower as the drain for the water line. I'm just not sure of the best place to tap into for the feed.
     
    #80

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