Progress Thread Want To Blow 4 Years And $40k On A Foxbody? Step By Step Instructions Inside!

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by RacEoHolic330, Nov 14, 2011.


  1. RacEoHolic330

    RacEoHolic330 I like to dress like a pretty girl SN Certified Technician

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    That would be convenient, but mine was welded up and I have a fuel pressure regulator and catch can in the way. I'll make it work, it will just be a pain. Especially with the heater box already in. I foresee many cuts on my hands in the near future.
     
    #1501
  2. RacEoHolic330

    RacEoHolic330 I like to dress like a pretty girl SN Certified Technician

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    So, I decided to do a (cold) compression test while I was putting in a new set of NGK 10 plugs. Here are the numbers:

    Cylinder 1 - 145 PSI
    Cylinder 2 - 140 PSI
    Cylinder 3 - 150 PSI
    Cylinder 4 - 135 PSI
    Cylinder 5 - 160 PSI
    Cylinder 6 - 150 PSI
    Cylinder 7 - 145 PSI
    Cylinder 8 - 135 PSI

    I'm genarally happy with those numbers. 4 and 8 are a little low compared to the others, but considering it was a cold test and the numbers are within 15% of each other, I'll take it. I was concerned that with all the fuel in the oil from the first startup, I may have screwed the rings, but all seems well.

    I also got my knock sensors and mounted one of them in the coolant drain on rear driver side of the block at clyinder 8. The passenger side has a threaded hole between cylinders 3 and 4 that I would like to use. I just need to get a brass adapter because the sensor threads are too large. Pictures to come once I finish that up.
     
    #1502
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  3. tannerc91gt

    tannerc91gt More durable than coconuts and twice as fast

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    Good deal with the knock sensors. What series Holley are you using? The avenger and HP(what I have) are the same ECU with a few feature differences. The dominator, in my application, is way overkill but you seem to have a lot of more intricate things going on with your build
     
    #1503
  4. RacEoHolic330

    RacEoHolic330 I like to dress like a pretty girl SN Certified Technician

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    I'm using the HP. The Dominator was out of my budget. I don't see myself using up the I/O of the HP anytime soon. If I planned on getting the Holley from the start, I probably would have went with the Dominator and not have purchased a separate boost controller and fan/water pump controller.
     
    #1504
  5. RacEoHolic330

    RacEoHolic330 I like to dress like a pretty girl SN Certified Technician

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    Got my pulley today. This thing is a beauty! Thanks again @90lxcoupe for the tip. Saved me a ton of headaches. Total cost was $108 including shipping. Killer price for a custom billet pulley, IMO.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    #1505
  6. 90lxcoupe

    90lxcoupe Mustang Master

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    No problem, glad i could help. They do great work, i was really happy with my pulley too.
     
    #1506
  7. RacEoHolic330

    RacEoHolic330 I like to dress like a pretty girl SN Certified Technician

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    Looks like it's going to be a busy weekend! I should have ordered some extra wiring ahead of time. The configuration of the harness is going to drive my OCD level through the roof. The harness is too 'universal' for my liking, which I expected. To keep the wiring hidden in the engine bay, and keep everything under the carpet, I'm probably going to have to re-work part of the harness. What should be a plug and play install will take me quite a while, because I'm a pain in the ass like that.

    [​IMG]
     
    #1507
  8. 84Ttop

    84Ttop They make new pistons every day, so why worry? SN Certified Technician Mod Dude

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    So you're not going to sit the 'puter on the hood and use a jump box to power it up?
     
    #1508
  9. bird_dog0347

    bird_dog0347 Active Member

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    Just a thought, lay it all out in the open and test it to make sure it's all working correctly... then once you're happy and know you've got it all squared away pull it off and fix/route the harness how you want it.
     
    #1509
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  10. FoxMustangLvr

    FoxMustangLvr Mustang Master

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    That's as least a dozen Doritos Locos tacos job to get that installed. :pop:
     
    #1510
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  11. Noobz347

    Noobz347 Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor Admin Dude

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    Is that OEM diameter?
     
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  12. RacEoHolic330

    RacEoHolic330 I like to dress like a pretty girl SN Certified Technician

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    No. This is an underdrive crank pulley. I can't imagine a factory diameter one being much more.
     
    #1512
  13. MikeH686

    MikeH686 Mine is only two inches though.

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    And we have derailed this thread
     
    #1513
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  14. tannerc91gt

    tannerc91gt More durable than coconuts and twice as fast

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    Looks good Scott
    Looking forward to seeing how you install the kit
     
    #1514
  15. RacEoHolic330

    RacEoHolic330 I like to dress like a pretty girl SN Certified Technician

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    C'mon Nick. You should know me better than that. I would at least drill a hole in the hood so I can hardwire 12V and ground to the unit.

    I'm going to try to do something like that just to make sure the unit powers on fine.

    It wouldn't be the first time. This thread was a home improvement channel for a while when I was waiting for the car to get painted. There was lots of great advice on remodeling and landscaping.


    I didn't realize the ECU housing was 100% metal. The little thing is heavy for its small size. I'm quite happy with the initial quality of everything. The only thing that sucked is that it comes with a 1 bar MAP sensor. It would have made more sense if you could choose the sensor you wanted. I needed to buy a 3 bar.
     
    #1515
    Last edited: May 23, 2014
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  16. 84Ttop

    84Ttop They make new pistons every day, so why worry? SN Certified Technician Mod Dude

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    Does it use a gm style map sensor? If so I have one that I took off my car after last season. I had to switch to 5 bar and you're welcome to my 3 bar sensor if it will work for you.
     
    #1516
  17. RacEoHolic330

    RacEoHolic330 I like to dress like a pretty girl SN Certified Technician

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    Yes, standard 3 pin weatherpack connector. That would be great. Shoot me a message and let me know what you want for it.
     
    #1517
  18. 90lxcoupe

    90lxcoupe Mustang Master

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    holley does make a 15' unterminated harness that comes with a bunch of pins and connectors. I'd like to do that someday but for now i'll just deal with the generic harness. Its not that bad but you definitely have to move a couple things just to make it fit.
     
    #1518
  19. RacEoHolic330

    RacEoHolic330 I like to dress like a pretty girl SN Certified Technician

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    Yea. That probably would have worked too. Luckily, I don't have to reconstruct this harness, but I'll definitely need to extend some wires to get them exactly where I want them. It won't be a big deal, but it will take a little time and planning. I just want to avoid touching the wideband wiring. That is already shielded and sealed.
     
    #1519
  20. RacEoHolic330

    RacEoHolic330 I like to dress like a pretty girl SN Certified Technician

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    I got a good start on getting the Holley wired up.

    First order of business was getting the crank trigger installed. Look at that beautiful custom pulley!
    [​IMG]

    Then I made up a shielded harness for the crank and cam sensors. The harness is made up of a ground, power, and two signal wires along with a bare drain wire. Those were all twisted together and then I wrapped copper shielding tap around all the wires. The copper tape has a conductive adhesive so it bonds to the drain wire. That drain wire gets connected at the ECU end only.
    [​IMG]

    Here's the ECU mounted on a piece of painted sheet metal. Now I have a ton of extra space where all the other electronics used to be. I guess I have a place to store chairs for car shows now!
    [​IMG]

    I got the majority of the wiring done minus the injectors, IAT, and ECT sensor. I stripped all the loom off the original harness and started to figure out the best way to route everything.
    [​IMG]

    I didn't have to tear the harness apart at all. I do need to extend the injector harness though. Holley made that way short compared to the other parts of the harness. The IAT and ECT will also get extened and spliced into the GM connectors. I made up the end for the ignition harness and pluged that in. I routed the wideband through the hole in the transmission tunnel. You can see where the connectors will meet each other right in front of the shifter. I was glad I didn't have to extend that wiring at all. The roll of wires in the passenger footwell area is for the extra inputs and outputs. I will probably leave those there. It's an easy spot to get to without having to rip the carpet out of the car. You can also see the vacuum line for the MAP sensor. I'm just going to cut a hole in the carpet under the passenger seat and leave the sensor there.

    The TPS needed a new connector, so I decided to cut the stock plug off and put a weatherpack connector on the end.
    [​IMG]

    For the IAC solenoid on the throttle body, I had to wire that into an output for the ECU, despite the harness already having it's own IAC plug. That wiring was designed for a GM stepper motor IAC. The Ford IAC is known to be better, so I preferred to keep it. I just won't use the plug in the original harness. I also ran 2 wires from the stock VSS back to the ECU along with a set of wires from the ECU to the dash. The Holley has the ability to interface with an external traction control unit, so I may take advantage of that down the road. I figured it would be a good idea to pre-wire for it now. I also wired in the datalogging outputs from my PLX oil pressure gauge and Fuelab electronic regulator. I will just need to set them up as cusom sensors in the software, but it will be nice to be able to log that information.

    I'm just waiting on some 18ga wiring to show up so I can extend the injector harness. Once that is done, I should be ready to power up the unit and start checking things.
     
    #1520
    Last edited: May 27, 2014

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